Line between "RUN!!! and" buy and fix"

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V

vilasman

Joined
Sep 6, 2010
Threads
100
Messages
359
The lost comment on my replace bumper thread is "Run Forrest Run" and I can totally respect that. But the thing that I have been trying to get a fix on for the last 2 months or so on here is some wisdom on how to know when to pull the trigger?
Back in september a family member said to me pick out the car that you want and I will help you get it. Help as in they write a check for it and I pay back as I can. As in set the payment low enough that you should never have an issue making it. The only stipulation was had to be newer than 2000. Now I have been lurking here for 3 or 4 years. I have been interested in cruisers ever since, my friend the mechanic had a green 1999 in his shop for work. I came here and began to read about them and was sold. Before I wanted a off road 3 wheeler and when they got out lawed a 4 wheeler. Then I saw what a cruiser could do and thought 'who wants a motorcycle, when i can have a truck that is civilized enough for my over prissy wife to ride with me.
At first I was looking at 2000's because the earlier the year the cheaper. Then I read about the tranny issue. Then I looked at the model year changes and went to the 2004's. I can only find 2 for under 20000 that are within 500 miles of Maryland.
Now. I am adding in money for tires and other needed repairs so that hopefully all my cost for the next 2 years will be rolled in to the loan.
So.... I am still looking for insight on when to pull the trigger the
 
You either need to pay less and accept the supposed drawbacks (e.g. weak tranny) or pay more and get a perfect ride. If you're not comfortable with paying more you should probably save up until you are, and forget about the loan.

Remember this site is full of enthusiasts, so "problems" seem to manifest themselves in a higher ratio than within the general public. Especially when you consider that most of the rigs owned by folks on this site are used harder than the average soccer mom uses her (same vehicle) grocery getter.

I set a price point for my Tundra that I bought a few years ago. It allowed me to get a nice early model or a trashed, high-mileage later model. I decided to go with the early model, though it has known brake problems, possible tranny problems if used to tow often, etc. So far the only thing I've had to deal with is the brake problems. But as compared to a later model, I'm still thousands of $$ ahead. Yeah I don't have the latest and greatest, but to each their own.

You have to decide for yourself. Remember there are lots of fish in the pond, so if you're not comfortable with something keep beating the bushes until you are. I got lucky and the 2nd truck I looked at had many thousands of miles of records and had been meticulously maintained, and was low mileage. I ended up paying a premium as compared to others of the same model year, but I felt totally comfortable with the deal. If anything was suspicious I would have walked away.

There were some things I didn't like and ended up changing and some things I had to fix (and "fix" ;)), but it was a used vehicle. :meh:
 
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Another thing to remember is that there is a considerable difference in cost between being totally reliant on shop parts and labor rates [stealer or indy] vs DIY.

Many of us here would look at the purchase based on the cost to buy parts and do the work ourselves. If that approach is not for you, then look for the cleanest example you can find that has a solid dealer maintenance record. If the truck has been dealer maintained you can look up the maintenance records using the VIN. You'll pay more, but you should be able to avoid buying a money pit that will bleed you dry.
 
As a general rule, get the best you can possibly afford. Stretch the dollar so that you spend your money once. Otherwise you're constantly spending money fixing this or replacing that. It becomes a project that is more expensive than if you had purchased a clean truck.

Land Cruisers are not cheap, it does not matter which type you are buying. If you're picking up an old 40 you will be spending money on renovations. A newer 100 or 200 and a big sticker price. Gas is a hog, prepare for a big gas bill if you're a commuter.

Also maintenance is expensive, when it needs to be fixed things are pricey. I just spend $3300 on tires, brakes, shocks and maintenance. Then tack on the $1800 I'm going to spend next year on the timing belt. Sure you can pick up a nice 100 cruiser for $15k and up, but the cost of ownership is high. The only comforting part is that you are likely to have much fewer issues than other vehicles out there.

Don't rush into anything and don't feel pressured to buy because you traveled 5 hours to see a truck.
 
patrickfinley said:
Also maintenance is expensive, when it needs to be fixed things are pricey. I just spend $3300 on tires, brakes, shocks and maintenance. Then tack on the $1800 I'm going to spend next year on the timing belt. Sure you can pick up a nice 100 cruiser for $15k and up, but the cost of ownership is high. The only comforting part is that you are likely to have much fewer issues than other vehicles out there.

Don't rush into anything and don't feel pressured to buy because you traveled 5 hours to see a truck.
Click to expand...

This. 90k service, tires, brakes, all fluids -- you're flirting with $3k. If you buy one with no records you can plan on most if not all of it, just to 'baseline' the truck.
 
took me 2 years to find 'the one' for me

during that time i was stuck in an fjc

had a good time with the fjc, but much happier in the 99

bottom line is the bottom line

$$$

it would be easier if you post a link for the 100 gurus to take a peek at it online

service records are important, because if it aint written, it aint done

to baseline a truck is $$

too many factors to consider

buy what you want and be happy

nothing anyone says here will matter if youre not happy eitherway

done
 
Some good points on here. No matter how you look at it, the LC is not cheap to own. I read your other thread (Trunk let you off easy;)) I can't imagine a dealer selling a 2004 with just over 100k miles for $15,000. Something is fishy. It's also worth mentioning that finding out where the vehicle has been registered the last few years is important. Especially if it's last stop was Long Beach or Staten Island, NY or anywhere along the Jersey Shore.

I'd still like to see a link to the 2004 for $15k. PM it if you don't want to post it. Im curious.
 
Paf may be onto something here. If his 2004 was submerged in seawater in Sandy then the price may reflect that. No way a 2004 w/ 100K sells ata dealer for $15K without a major 'story'.
 
I drove this one and liked it.

http://www.autotrader.com/cars-for-...rTypes=b&searchRadius=300&maxPrice=17000&mmt=[TOYOTA[LC[]][]]&minPrice=10000&listingId=331933593&listingIndex=10&Log=0

Like the color and everything and it was MD and PA inspected. The dealer told the mechanic it had a muffler issue and mechanic got nervous and when I opened the rear door... there was a roughness where you reach for the latch...like it was rusted. That bothered me. Also the steering wheel didnt telescope and the some of the knobs for the seat adjustments where gone.

So I looked some more and discovered that 2004's weren't that much more exspensive and found a silver one in ohio that was for 16500... was going to see it but apparently it got sold. (Slightly upset... was supposed to go last weekend.

Then I found the blue one that someone put the link up for above... really liked the color. Then someone mentioned Sandy and was really leaning back towards Ohio.
Now I am thinking that 2003 in PA might be the trick.
Yes I saw the burgundy one in Frederick. My mechanic drove it... it has the thud in the rear differential and I wasn't thrilled about the color.
 
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