Lights-relays-interior switches

[natecher]

Drew a diagram and would appreciate some feed back.

Installed a 60amp equalizer
In the midst of creating a sealed box for later install in the engine bay. The area within the green box is the sealed box.

 

[Diesel Cruiserman]

Drew a diagram and would appreciate some feed back.

Installed a 60amp equalizer
In the midst of creating a sealed box for later install in the engine bay. The area within the green box is the sealed box.

Very cool, always wondered if there was such a unit, so it equalizes both batters so you do not drain one before the other?

Rob

 

[natecher]

had to give you better words than mine:

"In dual battery (24V systems) it is often desirable to have 12V power available. Often this 12V power is available by tapping the battery stack at the junction of the lower and upper battery. Tapping the battery stack will result in unequal current draw from the lower and upper battery. Unequal current draw from the batteries will result in a state of charge unbalance. The lower battery will be discharged more than the upper battery. Eventually this will lead to damage and reduced life from the batteries."

thus far I have been pulling 12v loads with no real change at all.

 

[natecher]

More pics, also a list that I used

 

[natecher]

It's called the "dbox" YouTube it

 

[natecher]

Battery equalizer:

Pics on what and where the fuses were mounted in the engine bay. A 4 gauge cable was used and ran through the firewall on the passenger side all the way to the back. The equalizer was mounted on front of the stock jack and tools area. I was able to utilize some existing holes and grounded the equalizer off on also a existing hole on the body behind the panel. Would take a pic but documenting this was an after thought and my truck is now full of tools in the back.

Fuses were found at polar battery. Marine grade and a better buy then a one time only fuse. These pop and Wallah re reset them. If they ever pop they will have paid them selves off. The equalizer manual calls for an 80 and 40 fuse but figured those 100 and 50 would be ok.

 

[natecher]

Also thought I might add why the fuses are mounted where they are.

The 100 is where it is because I was able to move a solenoid back into a empty space where a stock hole with threads was empty. Also the fuse has an aluminum bracket mounted into another stock hole with thread with a stainless bolt. The stock bolt for the solenoid was not long enough for the aluminum bracket and washer.

Pretty much the same for the 50. It's mounted above where the hole is for the stock antenna also into a stock hole with threads.

Not ingenious i know. Whole process was very simple. Just thought that maybe some would find a benefit or elaborate into something cooler.

Pics of where the hole is for the firewall and another pic of the 50 mounted above the antenna hole.

 

[markthemenace]

Very nice setup! About your diagramme, most of the circuits there are already pre-existing right? Or were you rewiring it all? Where did you get that unit and if you don't mind me asking, how much?

 

[natecher]

Very nice setup! About your diagramme, most of the circuits there are already pre-existing right? Or were you rewiring it all? Where did you get that unit and if you don't mind me asking, how much?

If your referring to the "dbox" everything was bought in between the power source and the source (wire, relays...). So I wast rewiring anything.

I have finished the dbox itself, now working on a good place to mount it in the engine bay, and building a bigger center console for the switches, vhf and cup holders.

As the "unit" are you referring to the equalizer? If so It was given to me from the previous owner.

 

[natecher]

Changed how things will be set up. Now just need to the time to start working on all this.

 

[natecher]

Since I'm not gonna work on this today, well not for a couple weeks thought I would make some notes. Not 100% lighting forum, but there important and this is where the ol bean started turning. So thoughts and feed back welcome.

Plan:

- make a middle console in the hj61 that replaces that existing one.

--have 6 switches on this console. inside: relays, fuse block for: front Ipf lights, rear Led light bar, VHF, other 4 yet to be determined. Basically need to buy the stuff (fridge, power outlets...)

--figuring out sections sizes of this console to have the 24 to 12 converter, relays, fuse block and wires near the lower part of my dash in a closed off section. Heat may be an issue so a small fan installed. Possibly...

--on the face, slanted coming off the existing dash will be the 6 switches, VHF, mic, turbo timer , gauge- http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=5_21&products_id=66

--middle section of console will be storage for flashlight, knife, maps...etc and some decent cup holders sheesh!

--section above heater is still being figured out. Want to keep this as stock as possible.

This project is developing and I don't mind the extra work. Any further add ons people can't live with out?

 

[phoenix60]

Since I'm not gonna work on this today, well not for a couple weeks thought I would make some notes. Not 100% lighting forum, but there important and this is where the ol bean started turning. So thoughts and feed back welcome.

Plan:

- make a middle console in the hj61 that replaces that existing one.

--have 6 switches on this console. inside: relays, fuse block for: front Ipf lights, rear Led light bar, VHF, other 4 yet to be determined. Basically need to buy the stuff (fridge, power outlets...)

--figuring out sections sizes of this console to have the 24 to 12 converter, relays, fuse block and wires near the lower part of my dash in a closed off section. Heat may be an issue so a small fan installed. Possibly...

--on the face, slanted coming off the existing dash will be the 6 switches, VHF, mic, turbo timer , gauge-

This project is developing and I don't mind the extra work. Any further add ons people can't live with out?

Trailer lights circuit, CB, DVD player, USB outlets

Subscribed, I need to sort out my electrical power in 61 as well. So far I've been rocking the Waeco fridge on 110 outlet from a 24-12V converter plugged into the cig lighter. It works, but no power to fridge when truck isn't running. Nights are cold up here anyway. Good has never spoiled... Knock on wood.

I would like a 24v fuse block for lights, fridge and compressor. A 12v block for all the other goodies.

 

[natecher]

What 24v brands are you interested and or bought? I always had the mentality that having a 12v product would be the way to go. As soon as the converter and equalizer were going.

 

[phoenix60]

For 24V accessories I have a Dometic (Waeco) fridge. Most fridges will run 24 or 12V. Just got my Puma 24V compressor and will get 24V Fyrlyt's when I get additional lighting. That will be all, unless I decide to get a 24V electric winch. Running the PTO right now. I believe (but could be wrong) that electric stuff runs a bit more efficiently on 24V.

 

[natecher]

It's been a while since I got organized to attack the electrical in my 61.

Current situation:

After the equalizer was installed I bought a 24v 12000 lbs winch from EBI. It's been great, pulls well, can't complain. Reason why I mention this comes into play soon in the story.

Over Christmas i didn't need to drive very much and the 61 only got some short daily duties every other day for a month.

Just before I was going to leave for the kootenays for Christmas the battery's were dead. So to polar battery I went and left them there to get recharged.

January I was busy with work driving the truck after the recharge and everything was well. Then came one weekend were I didn't drive for sat and Sunday. Monday off to work and the batteries were dead once again.

I get some good hours driving the truck so the battery's should have charged up. The alternator is in great shape. So that leaves me with figuring out what the heck is going on.

Today I start that process. The only change from being fully operational with out worries is the 24v winch. But that didn't cause me issue for 3 months.

My gut tells me the batteries have a problem but polar battery tells me I'm a ok on that front.

That leaves me digging into the nest of wiring of three owners. Fun... And finding whats going on. I'll take pics of the steps.

As soon as i stop driving the truck for two days I don't have enough bat juice to crank the starter. Which was rebuilt not to long ago. Here's to a fun Saturday.

 

[markthemenace]

You're having a major leak for sure. Even if your alternator is not charging, the batteries should be good for more than the three days combined. Unless your alternator is not just dead, but is actually sucking the life out of your batteries. Happened to me once. Have you ascertained that your alternator is charging with a voltmeter?

Once that has been ruled out, I suggest checking to see if there's a leak in the first place. I'm sure you know how to do this with a voltmeter right? Before tearing into wiring, perhaps look at that first....to ascertain that there is indeed a leak.

Another thing I would consider, is the position of your battery terminals. Are you sure they're not somehow shorting across the hood? I see that your batteries' posts are pretty much in front of the vehicle, which I thought was the lowest part of the hood. Most people (me included) face the posts rearward, to give the most clearance from the hood (I think so, anyway). For added insurance, I have an ABS piece sitting on top of the terminals as well.

IF all the above checks out, I would then start with the last thing done...which, like it or not, is the winch. Could have developed an internal short or something and is drawing power? Who knows, old electronics corrorde, and then they do, they sometimes stop working, and sometimes, they form closed circuits.

 

[natecher]

Mark thanks for the input. Allowed me to have a better idea what to check. I'm back in order, had a wazoo of bad connections and wires.

Back to lighting. Had a ol hella fog light case lying around so put a hella 24v 70w h1 bulb in it and now I have the potential to see backing up. Tested it out in the drive way and I'm pretty happy with it.

 

[natecher]

I'm back at it!

All because the electrical is back outta wack.

The Center console is 80% done. My welding job was a hack but a little grinding a bondo have smoothed things out.

Update the arb switches went into my dash as the console wasn't finished.

Currently in haven't put the converter to real use beside the stereo.

There's been some confusing (to me) parts. First I'm not really sure what to do from here. The battery equalizer seems over kill now with the converter in place.

Todo: clear up accessories and run them from appropriate locations (either converter or accessory box in engine bay).

The accessory box has been working well since purchase. The more items added to electrical seem to cause me more issues.

Thus leading me to believe that all they had been installed by shops or my self have been half add from the start.

After the battery issue above I ended up getting two new batteries. All is good for about 6 months. Then my starter goes. This starter was rebuilt 1 year prior.

Hmm starter failures are due to:
1) weak or worn out battery,
2) loose battery terminal(s) connection,
3) dirty battery terminal(s) or post(s), 4) malfunctioning solenoid,
5) loose cable connection of solenoid, and;
6) malfunctioning starter. A malfunctioning starter, on the other hand, may be due to any or a combination of the following: worn out armature, field coil, bushing, bearing and gear.

Add some more for the list if you can...

Well I had two new batteries, battery terminals were on good, not to tight but snug enough that it would not move, not dirty (regularly cleaned), can't really say anything about the solenoid, so must have been the starter it self.

Starter replaced. Been going strong since replacement.

Life gets busy and projects get out on the back burner.

Then the arb compressor gets hooked up. Within a month the plus side terminal gets a reaction

Corrosion. I noticed this when i used the compressor to pump up a few tires on a struggling pt cruiser. Used the the truck in the am. Let it run at high rpm for a while to recharge the battery. All good. Off the truck goes and me back inside.

7 hrs later I'm out to the truck and it's dead. No click no nothing.

Batteries register at 6.4v and 6.5v. Both within .1 of each other??

Looked and the compressor switch was in the off position. Not full retard.

So I hook up my battery charger. NOCO Genius marine grade 12-24v 20a charger. Both are indicated as red.

This morning after 8hrs of charging

The high battery is still indicated as red and the low battery (with corrosion in the + side) indicates a warning.

Now one thing that doesn't make sense here is that both batteries are still registering at the same v as before charging them.

Does this charger have enough Amps (10a) each to charge the system? I have used it before in the same manner with great results. So I'm lead to believe from previous experience the answer is yes.

Remember that after using the compressor my volt meter in the truck (on the dash) was normal before shut down.

So within 10 hrs my batteries were down to 6v and nothing would happen electrically in the truck. Sleepy cruiser.

I have a draw that started within a day?

As the cruiser sits I ponder and search on what could be the issue.

I will start by removing my batteries and getting them tested. Just strange that they would both go down to 6v in that time period.

Kind of been looking for an excuse to upgrade the alternator.

 

[natecher]

Oh wow this has been an interesing fix.

My glow screen was pulling power.

One night it came to an end. I got the batteries charged and attempted to start the cruiser. The glow screen indicator came on the dash...wasn't cold out side and rarely have I ever seen it come on. Then it stayed on while the keys were in and turned. Silly that i watched mesmerized, waiting for the glow screen dash light to shut off. It didn't till the key was pulled.

Result, glow screen got cooked to about half.

Now I have two new batteries, glow screen re wired.

Haven't had an issue since.

Back to more pleasurable projects on the cruiser