Lift kit advice (Ironman) , alignment issues, and what else? (1 Viewer)

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Hey everyone,
I have used the "search" function and I found a lot about lift kits, but not much about what else must be changed, as well how will the alignment be changed.
My 87 fj60 springs are shot (250,000 miles), they are alomst totally flat and the ride sucks! So I am looking with great interest at the Ironman lift. As many others have pointed it is $550.00 on ebay now, that falls into my budget!
So my questions are as follows:

1. I have all stock shackels, should I keep them or get something new? I f I should go new, what should I buy?

2. With the Ironman kit what else would I need to get in order for my the entire suspension to be replaced? I would like to know down to every last nut and bolt.

3. After a lift like the Ironman, will my alignment be altered? Could a regular alignment shop "fix" it after a lift?

4. Are there any other issues that I am missing, brake lines, etc.

I will be paying my mechanic to do the work, I will get all the parts. I just want to be COMPLETE in every way so that when I drop the truck off, he has EVERYTHING he needs.

Also my truck is an NJ truck, so I am sure bolts and the like will not cooperate. So how long might it take for the mechanic to do the job, at least a ballpark range?

Thank you,
Zack
 
Oh and I forgot what about shims? Are they needed?

I guess I just don't want to end up with a truck that eats tires and u joints, and whatever else because of a lift that was not done properly. But overall I guess the 2in Ironman is not that much, but it will prob be more like 4in on my truck since my stock springs are so dead!


Zack
 
IMOP do it once with everything you need included in the OME Dakar kit. well tested, well engineered, well liked by many (including myself). more money, yes- but worth the assurance/track record.


my .02
 
I just bought the Ironman kit b/c its too good a deal for my cheap ass to pass up. From what I understand you wont need shims unless you get longer shackles and even then its only a technicality if you are experiencing problems. If you do get the schackles you want them to be greaseable to avoid the headaches of dissasembling to lube them. Others have suggested slip plates. I think you're set as far as parts go but why not do it yourself. You're talking some jackstands, bolts, a bfh, and a torque wrench. Have no fear man. If you like I could even take step by step pics of my install to help you along in the process. If you get hung up just post and all shall be answered 9 times out of 10. Then you'll have a few hundred $$ left over and the satisfaction of sore knuckles. :D
 
1. You can get new shackles or use your stock ones. I did not replace mine but will soon.

2. You will get everything you need with the Ironman kit.

3. Your alignment will not be altered, your steering wheel will change but it will still drive the same.

4. No need for new brake lines unless lift is 4" +.

5. I did the Ironman lift alone in a little over 4 hours, the only bolts I had trouble with were the rear front spring hanger bolts. I welded two of the old u bolt nuts the the outside on either side and used and impact to take them out. My rig only has 90k on it so it was easy.
 
lift kit

Hey Man,
I went with the ome 3" springs and a 1" shackle, the only problem I had was getting the spring hanger bolts out, (not the shackle side.) I agree, you should definitely do it yourself, it's a kick in the ass! Along with my springs and shackles, I needed longer shocks, and shims for the front, after that it is driveable. Other things you might want to do just for a smoother ride is extend the swaybar links, I drive without mine and it is fine. You do not need to touch you driveline or alignment. You will need to unbolt your brakeline mount, (a whopping 10 seconds.) Super straight forward. If you have any questions you can call me at 360-223-0914, -mike
 
I second what they say.
Do it yerself.
I did my own suspension it took 2 full days ( loaner tools, no knowledge).
Hell, it was great to do it all by my self.
I spent the first 4 hours trying to put the rear leaf on the front (Duh).
The last 3 hours I had to turn the front leafs around as I had put them backwards.
So, as you can see it was lots of fun but yeah "oh what a feeling".
I went with OME.
BTW: I got a set of OME greasable shackles I got them with the kit but decided to go with long-er shackles to level the truck off.
I should put them for sale..
If you decide to do it yourself start by using some penetrating oil a few days before you get to it, it will make a big difference when taking everything off.
I had to use shims on the front due to the longer shackles.
I also had to get my wheels balanced...
Get a steering stabilizer...

Good luck to yah
 
alpendubber said:
1. You can get new shackles or use your stock ones. I did not replace mine but will soon.

2. You will get everything you need with the Ironman kit.

3. Your alignment will not be altered, your steering wheel will change but it will still drive the same.

4. No need for new brake lines unless lift is 4" +.

5. I did the Ironman lift alone in a little over 4 hours, the only bolts I had trouble with were the rear front spring hanger bolts. I welded two of the old u bolt nuts the the outside on either side and used and impact to take them out. My rig only has 90k on it so it was easy.


Hello,
Thanks for all the help everyone. One question, what do you mean that my steering wheel will change?

Zack
 
It will be almost a 1/8 of a turn off. An easy fix is to unbolt it and bolt it back on straight.
 
Having lifted a few trucks from the east coast I think your list needs a few more parts. Plan on replacing all the shackles and pins. With those miles your mechanic will be lucky to get them out at all much less in one piece. The cost of the new parts is FAR cheaper than the labor hours required to "be nice" to old rusty parts. BTDT...

Get new u-bolts. A local spring shop can hook you up with those for WAY less than the local 4x4 store. Same reasons as for new shackles and frame pins.

The "right" way IMHO to fix the steering wheel being off center is to lengthen the drag link to accomodate the lift.

HTH,
Nick
 
Zebra is right. Just to add, the Ironman lift comes with all new U bolts, nuts and washers.
 
I have a Man-A-Fre safari suspension. It was a 3" lift (before I added long AAL's to it.) They told me it wouldn't need shims on the front axle. It didn't track straight after the lift, kind of felt loose. I had an alignment shop check, and it needed approx 3 degree shim. Some springs are engineered so that you don't need shims (OME for example). My suggestion is to go to an alignment shop after you are done and have them check the caster. If it's in spec, you're good to go. If not, buy the correct shim, and have your mechanic install it. It's an extra two steps, but it's better to have it all done right at the outset.

BTW - since it's a NJ truck, spray all the nuts/bolts w/penetration oil for a week or so prior to the install. Even if a mech does it for you, it'll make his/her life much easier.
 

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