Lids for 100s

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Any reason you guys are using bolts and not rivets? I would thing black bivits would be a great idea or is there a reason to want to remove it.
 
Couple reasons, as you mention removability is key, but so is ease of installation. Bolts thread in with no real special tools, and if you back into something, or wreck your tailgate, or have the truck repainted, etc, you can unthread them and remove the lid and frame with ease.
 
Kevin-

I posted a question in the install thread on the 100 series forum, but I figure you're more likely to see it here.

Have you determined if the stainless latches interfere with the set plate? If the bolts interfere with the set plate then rivets might be a good alternative. We'd have to drill out the rivets to remove the lid, but that's what it takes to make the set plate work without catching on the screws then count me as one vote in favor of the rivets.
 
The stainless latches don't have an abrupt edge like those plastic ones did, pretty much anything will ramp over them, and the bolts do not actually interfere with the plate at all, it is the edge of the frame and the edge of the lid that can catch.
In the production versions I have also switched the five bolts on the leading edge to carriage bolts so they are even lower profile.

I'll check in on the other thread and copy this there.
KR
 
Yeah had some self adhesive felts, not sure if they will last, but works well. Now i just nee a super hd helper spring:)


The lift assist is drawn...I just need to test it out. For us 'weak in the arm Hundy types' :D
 
I'll take one!

This is a great product. Loaded up its quite heavy. Since my hundy has been recruited as the family kid hauler grocery getter and is piloted by my 105 lb wife, a HD lift support would be great. Since I am super strong, its no biggy for me, lol:)

The lift assist is drawn...I just need to test it out. For us 'weak in the arm Hundy types' :D
 
^ good question.
 
There are still only the 6 test lids, they are getting beat on but things seems to be going well so far....

Well let's get going on production!!!!!!

Just kidding! I appreciate that you take the time to make sure things work first before sending them out to the masses.
 
I am also interested in getting a lid for my 100 series. The lid for my 60 still looks great.
 
Sounds great, nice to have folks that already have a lid think they need another. :p

Roberto is it?
(hard to keep track of what usernames go with real word names. :doh:)
Be sure to drop me an email so I can put that in the 100 series folder, I'm keeping track of interest that way.

KR
 
Well, finally got around to installing the Beta lid I received.

Having installed one on my 80 and using DesertYeti's thread for the unknowns, fairly easy and straight forward install.

Some on the caveats:

Watch the wires and the cables for the tailgate latches. I broke the little plug that goes on the head of the key barrel for the auto unlock. Also, somewhere I broke one of the nipples on the cable for the tailgate latch.

Awesome tailgate. Great work Kevin!

image-2862751797.jpg

Sent from my iPhone using IH8MUD
image-2862751797.jpg
 
Toyota p/n 84903-60040, dont ask me how I know :)

Watch the wires and the cables for the tailgate latches. I broke the little plug that goes on the head of the key barrel for the auto unlock. Also, somewhere I broke one of the nipples on the cable for the tailgate latch.
 
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Did you run into the same damaged terminal Carl?
Anyone have a pic of the trouble spot?
What should be done to avoid the damage? (just take into account what and where the wires go during install?)

Alex, do you have any trouble with the set plate catching?
So far I have only had one test lid that seems to have an issue with it, made a nice little bumper/slider that seems to work, but the hole locations on it are not perfect yet:
IMG_6978.jpg
IMG_6975.jpg
 
Kevin,

Yes, the set plate catches. I don't think it catches on the bolt heads, I think it catches on the edge of the lid. I am going to break out the Dremel and fool around with it this weekend and come up with some suggestions for you as to where it catches.

With the unlock switch and wiring in general, I think I may have tugged on the wire loom, not a big deal, a foot of black electrical tape fixed that all up:hillbilly: The latch cable, I don't know when it broke either, but you could remove the cables prior to cutting. Same with the wire loom, you could un-plug the wires and cut all the cable ties securing the loom to the chunk you cut off the tail gate. Then drop all the wiring in the tailgate while you cut.

Also for the tailgate assist, 1/2 inch pipe/tube works for the assist spring. I'll measure the length I cut and pass it along.
 
Wish this was possible for 2nd gen 4Runners. :( Stupid ass electric window motor is in the tail gate.
 
Ok, messed around with the set plate.

Here's where it catches

Gate1.JPG

I figure you could put some 1/4 inch weather stripping in the groove here

gate6.JPG

Test try with three pieces of random weather stripping.

gate7.JPG
Gate1.JPG
gate6.JPG
gate7.JPG
 
With the weather stripping in there, it doesn't sit flat, but doesn't catch anymore;)

gate8.JPG

:hillbilly: Redneck fix 1 ala electrical tape on the un -lock switch. New one on order;)

Gate5.JPG

:hillbilly::hillbilly: Redneck fix 2 ala safety wire, unfortunately I don't think you can get the cable alone, you have to get the whole latch assembly:frown:

gate4.JPG
gate8.JPG
Gate5.JPG
gate4.JPG
 
here's the 1/2nch copper pipe I used with the tailgate assist spring installed. It was left over from a plumbing project, I'll prime and paint one day.

Gate2.JPG

Here's the piece, 14 1/4" is the perfect length

gate3.JPG
Gate2.JPG
gate3.JPG
 

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