Lids for 100s
- Thread starter popawoody
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
Couple reasons, as you mention removability is key, but so is ease of installation. Bolts thread in with no real special tools, and if you back into something, or wreck your tailgate, or have the truck repainted, etc, you can unthread them and remove the lid and frame with ease.
Kevin-
I posted a question in the install thread on the 100 series forum, but I figure you're more likely to see it here.
Have you determined if the stainless latches interfere with the set plate? If the bolts interfere with the set plate then rivets might be a good alternative. We'd have to drill out the rivets to remove the lid, but that's what it takes to make the set plate work without catching on the screws then count me as one vote in favor of the rivets.
I posted a question in the install thread on the 100 series forum, but I figure you're more likely to see it here.
Have you determined if the stainless latches interfere with the set plate? If the bolts interfere with the set plate then rivets might be a good alternative. We'd have to drill out the rivets to remove the lid, but that's what it takes to make the set plate work without catching on the screws then count me as one vote in favor of the rivets.
The stainless latches don't have an abrupt edge like those plastic ones did, pretty much anything will ramp over them, and the bolts do not actually interfere with the plate at all, it is the edge of the frame and the edge of the lid that can catch.
In the production versions I have also switched the five bolts on the leading edge to carriage bolts so they are even lower profile.
I'll check in on the other thread and copy this there.
KR
In the production versions I have also switched the five bolts on the leading edge to carriage bolts so they are even lower profile.
I'll check in on the other thread and copy this there.
KR
Yeah had some self adhesive felts, not sure if they will last, but works well. Now i just nee a super hd helper spring
The lift assist is drawn...I just need to test it out. For us 'weak in the arm Hundy types'
I'll take one!
This is a great product. Loaded up its quite heavy. Since my hundy has been recruited as the family kid hauler grocery getter and is piloted by my 105 lb wife, a HD lift support would be great. Since I am super strong, its no biggy for me, lol
This is a great product. Loaded up its quite heavy. Since my hundy has been recruited as the family kid hauler grocery getter and is piloted by my 105 lb wife, a HD lift support would be great. Since I am super strong, its no biggy for me, lol
The lift assist is drawn...I just need to test it out. For us 'weak in the arm Hundy types'
There are still only the 6 test lids, they are getting beat on but things seems to be going well so far....
Well let's get going on production!!!!!!
Just kidding! I appreciate that you take the time to make sure things work first before sending them out to the masses.
Sounds great, nice to have folks that already have a lid think they need another. 
Roberto is it?
(hard to keep track of what usernames go with real word names.
)
Be sure to drop me an email so I can put that in the 100 series folder, I'm keeping track of interest that way.
KR
Roberto is it?
(hard to keep track of what usernames go with real word names.
)Be sure to drop me an email so I can put that in the 100 series folder, I'm keeping track of interest that way.
KR
Well, finally got around to installing the Beta lid I received.
Having installed one on my 80 and using DesertYeti's thread for the unknowns, fairly easy and straight forward install.
Some on the caveats:
Watch the wires and the cables for the tailgate latches. I broke the little plug that goes on the head of the key barrel for the auto unlock. Also, somewhere I broke one of the nipples on the cable for the tailgate latch.
Awesome tailgate. Great work Kevin!
Sent from my iPhone using IH8MUD
Having installed one on my 80 and using DesertYeti's thread for the unknowns, fairly easy and straight forward install.
Some on the caveats:
Watch the wires and the cables for the tailgate latches. I broke the little plug that goes on the head of the key barrel for the auto unlock. Also, somewhere I broke one of the nipples on the cable for the tailgate latch.
Awesome tailgate. Great work Kevin!
Sent from my iPhone using IH8MUD
Last edited by a moderator:
Did you run into the same damaged terminal Carl?
Anyone have a pic of the trouble spot?
What should be done to avoid the damage? (just take into account what and where the wires go during install?)
Alex, do you have any trouble with the set plate catching?
So far I have only had one test lid that seems to have an issue with it, made a nice little bumper/slider that seems to work, but the hole locations on it are not perfect yet:
Anyone have a pic of the trouble spot?
What should be done to avoid the damage? (just take into account what and where the wires go during install?)
Alex, do you have any trouble with the set plate catching?
So far I have only had one test lid that seems to have an issue with it, made a nice little bumper/slider that seems to work, but the hole locations on it are not perfect yet:
Kevin,
Yes, the set plate catches. I don't think it catches on the bolt heads, I think it catches on the edge of the lid. I am going to break out the Dremel and fool around with it this weekend and come up with some suggestions for you as to where it catches.
With the unlock switch and wiring in general, I think I may have tugged on the wire loom, not a big deal, a foot of black electrical tape fixed that all up
The latch cable, I don't know when it broke either, but you could remove the cables prior to cutting. Same with the wire loom, you could un-plug the wires and cut all the cable ties securing the loom to the chunk you cut off the tail gate. Then drop all the wiring in the tailgate while you cut.
Also for the tailgate assist, 1/2 inch pipe/tube works for the assist spring. I'll measure the length I cut and pass it along.
Yes, the set plate catches. I don't think it catches on the bolt heads, I think it catches on the edge of the lid. I am going to break out the Dremel and fool around with it this weekend and come up with some suggestions for you as to where it catches.
With the unlock switch and wiring in general, I think I may have tugged on the wire loom, not a big deal, a foot of black electrical tape fixed that all up
The latch cable, I don't know when it broke either, but you could remove the cables prior to cutting. Same with the wire loom, you could un-plug the wires and cut all the cable ties securing the loom to the chunk you cut off the tail gate. Then drop all the wiring in the tailgate while you cut.Also for the tailgate assist, 1/2 inch pipe/tube works for the assist spring. I'll measure the length I cut and pass it along.
Wish this was possible for 2nd gen 4Runners. 
Stupid ass electric window motor is in the tail gate.
Stupid ass electric window motor is in the tail gate.
Ok, messed around with the set plate.
Here's where it catches
I figure you could put some 1/4 inch weather stripping in the groove here
Test try with three pieces of random weather stripping.
Here's where it catches
I figure you could put some 1/4 inch weather stripping in the groove here
Test try with three pieces of random weather stripping.
With the weather stripping in there, it doesn't sit flat, but doesn't catch anymore
Redneck fix 1 ala electrical tape on the un -lock switch. New one on order
Redneck fix 2 ala safety wire, unfortunately I don't think you can get the cable alone, you have to get the whole latch assembly
Redneck fix 1 ala electrical tape on the un -lock switch. New one on order Redneck fix 2 ala safety wire, unfortunately I don't think you can get the cable alone, you have to get the whole latch assembly
here's the 1/2nch copper pipe I used with the tailgate assist spring installed. It was left over from a plumbing project, I'll prime and paint one day.
Here's the piece, 14 1/4" is the perfect length
Here's the piece, 14 1/4" is the perfect length