BLUFF, two questions I'm looking to try and find an answer for (and I promise neither question is what to do with the wires):
1. Will the LEDs in the picture at the bottom fit the bill for a diode/idiot light in this swap?
2. given the particular challenges I'm facing with my current location, any general sense of "hey, did you order this" or "hey, that may not work" would be helpful, and a great time saver.
the rest of the post is a run up to where I'm at, and what items are coming together, hopefully with the necessary level of detail.
So, as part of the overall refit of my 78 fj43, I'm doing a 12si swap. It was, and will most likely still be at some point, a cs144 swap. but right now, I need to err on the side of safety, or at least minimal changes. each time I run up against a problem, it's a couple of weeks to get a new part, and there is no sending anything back from here. between the bracket, different variations in the cs cases, and the new bracket on order, the 12si route was the safest way to go at this point. details below.
First, I pulled my alternator. the mount on the drivers side was not as I expected, but being as it was on the drivers side, it wasn't totally unexpected, either...
after posting here, I was told it was normally used for an air pump or belt tensioner. works for me, I wanted the alternator on the battery side anyway. After looking for a stock bracket, I decided that with A/C in the works and some of the issues i've read about in different posts that I was better off spending a few more bucks for vintage air's bracket kit made for a gm alternator and compressor. just knock it out now. I looked over the instructions, and it looks like i can install the alternator by itself for now without getting the dual pullies for the water pump and crank. so i put that on order
the bracket kit is made for a 10/12si, so i decided to table the higher output cs130/144 for a 100amp 12si. not sure about the cs case variations (i have almost 200 acdelco model numbers and outputs catalogued so far), didnt want to worry about dealing with a pulley swap, and just generally a higher confidence in a first time go if I use the case format the bracket was designed for. so I have the alternator, pigtail, stud cap and a couple of distro blocks enroute
Now I also have a slew of 4ga wire, harness and fuse block, breakers for the battery and main fuse panel, relays for the high draw stuff, so that's all in the works. I've also ordered some extra wire just in case, because I don't see a conversation where I try to explain that I want TXL/SXL wire going very well here. and yes, the wiring map is an inprocess item. this is just a snapshot in time, lol. the only variation from the norm is that I will probably not jump the sensing wire directly to the lug. I think I'll run it over to the distro block by the battery, just a personal choice, and I think it'll look cleaner.
so with all that out of the way, I come to the final piece, the diode/idiot light. I pulled the brake and voltage light case from the dash, and of course, it's dead empty. checked the underside of the dash, no sockets to be found. but I dug around in some parts, and found that the dash light sockets fit it perfectly. the Led bulb for it appears to be a T10 wedge base. I'm getting a baggie full of pigtail sockets, and just randomly picked out a bag of bulbs. and I just found out there is a 5 attachment limit, so the bulb pic will be in the first comment. but here are the sockets
So given the sockets above, wired from the second alt wire to a switched 12v, and the bulbs pictured below placed to only allow flow from the switched 12v, does this appear to meet the requirements? they haven't made LEDs bidirectional in the last few years, have they? or some other 'gotcha' factor I may be missing?
Thanks in advance!
1. Will the LEDs in the picture at the bottom fit the bill for a diode/idiot light in this swap?
2. given the particular challenges I'm facing with my current location, any general sense of "hey, did you order this" or "hey, that may not work" would be helpful, and a great time saver.
the rest of the post is a run up to where I'm at, and what items are coming together, hopefully with the necessary level of detail.
So, as part of the overall refit of my 78 fj43, I'm doing a 12si swap. It was, and will most likely still be at some point, a cs144 swap. but right now, I need to err on the side of safety, or at least minimal changes. each time I run up against a problem, it's a couple of weeks to get a new part, and there is no sending anything back from here. between the bracket, different variations in the cs cases, and the new bracket on order, the 12si route was the safest way to go at this point. details below.
First, I pulled my alternator. the mount on the drivers side was not as I expected, but being as it was on the drivers side, it wasn't totally unexpected, either...
after posting here, I was told it was normally used for an air pump or belt tensioner. works for me, I wanted the alternator on the battery side anyway. After looking for a stock bracket, I decided that with A/C in the works and some of the issues i've read about in different posts that I was better off spending a few more bucks for vintage air's bracket kit made for a gm alternator and compressor. just knock it out now. I looked over the instructions, and it looks like i can install the alternator by itself for now without getting the dual pullies for the water pump and crank. so i put that on order
the bracket kit is made for a 10/12si, so i decided to table the higher output cs130/144 for a 100amp 12si. not sure about the cs case variations (i have almost 200 acdelco model numbers and outputs catalogued so far), didnt want to worry about dealing with a pulley swap, and just generally a higher confidence in a first time go if I use the case format the bracket was designed for. so I have the alternator, pigtail, stud cap and a couple of distro blocks enroute
Now I also have a slew of 4ga wire, harness and fuse block, breakers for the battery and main fuse panel, relays for the high draw stuff, so that's all in the works. I've also ordered some extra wire just in case, because I don't see a conversation where I try to explain that I want TXL/SXL wire going very well here. and yes, the wiring map is an inprocess item. this is just a snapshot in time, lol. the only variation from the norm is that I will probably not jump the sensing wire directly to the lug. I think I'll run it over to the distro block by the battery, just a personal choice, and I think it'll look cleaner.
so with all that out of the way, I come to the final piece, the diode/idiot light. I pulled the brake and voltage light case from the dash, and of course, it's dead empty. checked the underside of the dash, no sockets to be found. but I dug around in some parts, and found that the dash light sockets fit it perfectly. the Led bulb for it appears to be a T10 wedge base. I'm getting a baggie full of pigtail sockets, and just randomly picked out a bag of bulbs. and I just found out there is a 5 attachment limit, so the bulb pic will be in the first comment. but here are the sockets
So given the sockets above, wired from the second alt wire to a switched 12v, and the bulbs pictured below placed to only allow flow from the switched 12v, does this appear to meet the requirements? they haven't made LEDs bidirectional in the last few years, have they? or some other 'gotcha' factor I may be missing?
Thanks in advance!
