learn me about points ignition?

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Mr.Bryan

Mr.Bryan

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Hey guys,
Ok, so this saturday I'm going to go pull my grandpa's '71 Grand Prix out of storage. It's been sitting for 2 years and I'm about 99% sure that it's not going to start. I pulled out his 68 lincoln and the points were all stuck on that thing, I'm assuming it's going to be the same problem with this car.

My question is, does anyone have any good info or any good links to places where I can find out how to service or replace the points so I can drive it home and not have to have it towed? I've been googling stuff but I really couldn't find anything useful, either that or I just don't know what I'm looking for.

Thanks dudes.
 
You need a screwdriver and a feeler gauge to get it running, plus a little electrical grease. If you want to get the points really gapped correctly, you will need a dwell meter.
 
Oh hell no. My grandpappy always used a matchbook to set points gap, and his ears to set timing. Used his nose to check the air/fuel mixture, and a steel rod for tire pressure. He owned a service station for many years, back in the mid 1900's.

-Spike
 
Cool, thanks guys. Lets start with some more basic things... where exactly are the points located? I've looked at pictures of what they look like but I can't figgure out where to look in the car to find them. Is this before the coil or in the distributer, somewhere else?

I'm basically an idiot when it comes to old style ignition stuff, but from my little bits of knowledge, it seems easy enough to get everything going, I just gotta figgure out where everything is.
 
Points are it! I grew up on VWs and points are not mysteries. In fact, they are suprisingly simple switches to control the ignition coil.

The points will be in the base of the inside of the distributor, and normally held down by 2 screws. Install some new ones, put the follower on one of the bumps on the distributor shaft(by bumping over the motor), and set the gap to specs with a feeler gauge and a screw driver. The timing should be close enough to start.

You will need and old fashioned tool called a dwell meter to get the absolute correct setting of point gap, but I never really bothered. I do still have a dwell meter-come by if you want to use it. Then set timing with a light once the beast is running.

You are more likely to have problems with an old gunked up carb, then the ignition.

One other thing you can try is to leave the points in place and renew the surfaces with a piece of emery cloth. That works great to buy you a few extra miles when they are going bad.
 
Awesome! That's exactly what I was looking for. Thanks again guys. I should be able to get this thing going no problem now.

My grandpa has a small unique collection of old cars that he likes to let rot... I'm doing my best to keep them from turning into junk, although I think he finally realised that you have to take care of cars to keep their value.

He's got a 68 continental that we're in the process of restoring, it's going in for paint in 2 weeks and we should get it back come nov. The grand Prix is a cool car and it only has 8900 miles on it. He's got a mint '84 camaro with 17,000 mi. and a 63 t-bird with 34k mi. on it but the t-bird needs some work.

I'll post up some pics of the lincoln and grand prix this weekend.
 
Clean the points contact with a metal nail file, then set them to the width of a business card when the block that contacts the distributor cam is as far up on a lobe as it will go. On a 71 Piece Of Nasty Trash Impersonating A Car you'll probably have an allen screw that moves the points gap in and out.

I have a dwell meter somewhere, but I haven't used it in 20 years.
 
Gumby said:
Clean the points contact with a metal nail file, then set them to the width of a business card
Click to expand...

That must be the New Age way of setting the gap, since the advent of the disposable lighter and smoking becoming such a socially unacceptable practice. :D

-Spike
 
Points are the debil!

:D



If I were you, I'd consider swapping out the points out for the Pertronix points-less ignition setup. I don't know how well this works for a high performance engine though, it might be better to just regap the points regularly.

What I do know though, is that it sure is nice to never again have to deal with screwing around with gapping the points again...

I put a Pertronix setup in my 1974 F-250 that was eternally needing adjustment on the 360, and it ran like new. It didn't take the 20 minutes for the install as they said, more like a couple of hours because I ended up having to slap in a 40k volt coil and plugs / wires, etc. The thing runs like a champ now, although it does run a bit warmer than stock. I figure that retarding the timing a bit would fix that though.

I gave the truck to a buddy when I got my F-350, and he's run it up to the Lost Coast a couple of times, and up Nyack Grade on I-80 to Reno during the summer heat with no problems. He loves the Pertonix setup as much as I did when I had the truck. Good stuff.


Check this out. You take the points out and drop the ring with the magnets over the distributor shaft (the ring is black). Then you take the sensor and screw it down where the points used to be, while you set your gap with the clear piece of acrylic included in the model specific kit. After the gap is set, you put in a second screw to hold it permanently in that position. Drop the rotor and cap back on, connect the wire to the coil and reconnect the battery, blah, blah, etc...


Anyway, check it out. It's a good option and would probably improve the ignition system, but like I said before, I'd talk to so muscle car guys for sure to see what else is available...

I got my set at Napa Auto Parts...


http://pertronix.com/

..
pertronix.webp
pertronix 2.webp
 
Mr.Bryan said:
Nice! That I am going to consider for the Lincoln. That would be awesome as I'm trying to get that car to run better then brand new.
Click to expand...

Before you take the old points out you should see if they are working 1st.
Remove the distributor cap and get someone to crank the engine over and you should see a spark as it rotates. A big bluish spark is best is good.

A points change is best done in conjunction with new spark plugs
 
Gumby said:
No need for the Pertronix in the Pontiac. Any big cap HEI will drop right in there (some might need minor gear mods) Easy as pie and cheap.
Click to expand...

cool. I'm not too interested in messing with the pontiac, just want to keep it stock, the lincoln at this point is what I'm trying to turn into a mostly reliable vehicle that is fun and purdy.

What do you think about the pertronix or an HEI distributor in a ford 462?
 
Cool. Thanks man.
 
Ok, well I've got the pontiac in my driveway but i had to have it towed over here. I'm trying to get this thing going but i'm not having any luck here. I adjusted the points (i think) and i used a nail file to clean up the electrode things, but what else needs to be done? Unfortunately i'm the only one at home so i don't have someone to crank over the motor while I stare for a spark. Any ideas?

i do know that its getting fuel, i've sprayed ether in it too. carb is working ok... good enough to get it to run.
 
Anyone?
 
Do you have spark?

You can get a cheap remote starter switch if you are working alone.

If you don't know if you have spark at the plugs, there is no point trying to diagnose this.
 
Nope, no spark. I got a friend over helping me now. nothing at the points. Would i need all new points and what not?
 
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