Leaf spring Rehab (long..)(sorry, big pics)

[Man Jerk]

So after 4 or 5 years, the TPI/Smokey Mtn suspension springs were starting to show their wear. I've beat on these springs pretty hard, and they have held up great to the abuse. I have been running the 2.5" springs with a body lift and big shackles with 35" BFG's. As a referance a friend of mine who recently installed an OME kit with big shackles sat at the same height on 33's. That's how much my springs have sagged.

I had a decision to make. Either try to band aid my current set up or go SOA. Doing an SOA is my ultimate goal. I just could not come up with the money to do it right, so I decided to wait and try to get my SOA suspension to last me a little longer.

I picked up some long Add a leafs from Man a fre. They were quite a big thicker that I was expecting. I don't have a pic hand, but could procure one easily. I also picked up a set of the 4+ u bolt flip kits. I also had a set of steel caster shims with a 4* angle to correct my caster.

I had everything I needed, except the fixed eye spring pins. I honestly wasn't willing to pay $35 each corner for a set of these. We did manage to get them out and reuse them, but it wasn't easy. If these parts were wrecked I would have been screwed.

So we managed to pull the springs without too much trouble. These things looked nasty, and had a slight "w" shape to them

To dismantle the spring, first us a c clamp and clamp them together. Some time ago I was cleaning up a set of stockers and just went at the spring pin with a grinder. When the let loose they went hard and I needed a change of shorts. So make sure to clamp them.

We wire wheeled each individual leaf. This was very time consuming, and very very messy.

Then each leaf was wiped down with a rag soaked in Mineral spirits to get the rest of the gunk, then wiped down dry. I had sourced some impliment paint that had graphite in it. Each leaf was given 2 coats of paint. It was tough to sit around and watch the paint dry, but couldn't do anything till it did. The can says to wait an hour between coats, but I tried to speed it up with the use of a heat gun.

Here is a before leaf and an after leaf

Then the leaf packs were reassembled with new spring pins, bushings and caster shims.

Then the "new" spring packs were hoisted into place and hooked back up.

Unfortunately I forgot to take any before shots, but I'm guessing I got a good inch or 2 out of the deal.

We only got the fronts done today, so it sits at a bit of a rake. Hopefully we get the rears done soon. I also have a set of wheel spacers to bolt on. This will give me 1.5" at each corner, or 3" per axle. That will make the stance nice and wide.

I expect the springs to settle a bit. The drive home was pleasent. I don't feel that the ride quality (or lack there of) changed that much. I expected it to feel a lot stiffer. It doesn't lean into turns as much. I haven't bothered with my sway bar links for a couple of years.

Anyway, sorry for the long post, and for the huge pics. Too tired to resize them all.

 

[Spook50]

I sandblasted mine, leaf by leaf. Took a good 10 hours total time with the blasting cabinet. I tell ya, that sucked bigtime. My arms were KILLING me by the time I was done. Afterward I sprayed 'em (each individual leaf again) with two coats of Slip-plate, then over that I sprayed 'em all with DuPont teflon spray. They felt AWESOME after I had everything back together with the Add-A-Leafs installed. My stock springs were so sagged that I gained probably 4" from where I was sitting before installing the Add-A-Leafs.

Well worth all the work, but my springs already have a bit of surface rust on 'em because the Slip-plate has already worn off on the outside portions

 

[lowtideride]

I sandblasted mine, leaf by leaf. Took a good 10 hours total time with the blasting cabinet. I tell ya, that sucked bigtime. My arms were KILLING me by the time I was done. Afterward I sprayed 'em (each individual leaf again) with two coats of Slip-plate, then over that I sprayed 'em all with DuPont teflon spray. They felt AWESOME after I had everything back together with the Add-A-Leafs installed. My stock springs were so sagged that I gained probably 4" from where I was sitting before installing the Add-A-Leafs.

Well worth all the work, but my springs already have a bit of surface rust on 'em because the Slip-plate has already worn off on the outside portions

The outside is going to rust no matter what it seems. After the teflon spray I used moly grease between the leafs before I put it all back together...worth a shot.

 

[peepers]

this is a great post. i was just looking at my OMEs wondering if this could be done. yet another reason i need a garage!

 

[Man Jerk]

this is a great post. i was just looking at my OMEs wondering if this could be done. yet another reason i need a garage!

Thank god for other guys' garages! I spent the day up at my buddy's shop doing the work. My personal work area is full of snow

Most of the rust was just surface rust. The factory paint was still there underneath. I didn't actually grind the springs down to bare metal.

One thing I wish I could have done differently was wait longer for the paint to dry. Only problem was that I had 5 guys standing around waiting for them to dry.

 

[jwest]

Did you remember to stake or locktight the nut on the spring pin?
Wouldn't want that coming loose on you.

 

[Man Jerk]

Did you remember to stake or locktight the nut on the spring pin?
Wouldn't want that coming loose on you.

I can't say that I did. I'm not sure it needs it though. All the spring pin does now is locate the pack. The U bolts hold everything together.

 

[jwest]

That's what I thought, until i replaced my springs and saw that one side was completely loose. I had added leafs about a year earlier. The fronts leafs have a greater tendency to shift even with tight u-bolts. No point in re-doing it now, but I might just keep an eye on them.

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[Man Jerk]

I have clear access to the pins so I could just go underneath and do it.

 

[jwest]

Yea, all you'd have to do is clear the ubolt plate off the nut. You wouldn't have to undo the nut, just strike a stake in the pin.
If you can do it through the hole, even better.

I doubt anyone would fault you for not doing it, but I probably would for the peace of mind.

...just my experience.

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