LCA Frame Bushing Removal Help (1 Viewer)

[NWForester]

I have had the Cruiser in my garage for the most part since early January trying to baseline it, but instead I've been getting sucked down other "while I've got that apart" rabbit holes instead. I'll get there eventually and I am learning as I go

Currently the passenger side LCA frame mounted bushing is kicking my butt. I made a puller out of a 1/2" bolt and some 2" black iron pipe fittings which managed to pull the driver's side bushing with little problem, but the passenger side has destroyed three bolts, the last of which I just cut off with the grinder. I have beat on it with a mallet, soaked repeatedly with PB, and totally mangled the side with the lip and the washer. So there's no going back.

I have searched the forum and it appears that most either choose to leave them in place or torch them out. Who has done this with a mechanical tool? I am ready to invest in said tool.

 

[spressomon]

I just got done swapping out both front LCA frame side bushings. The first one took too many hours to admit. The 2nd side was out and new bushing in...in just over an hour.

With an extra long drill bit I drilled through and around the rubber portion of the bushing until it can be removed. Using either a sawzall with suitable blade or a single style hacksaw holder carefully cut through the remaining steel bushing surround (sever by cutting front to back). Then with a hammer and sharp chisel work the bushing, on both sides of the cut, until it comes loose.

Check out page 24 of my ROTM build thread for photos and info...

 

[Dwight S]

With an extra long drill bit I drilled through and around the rubber portion of the bushing until it can be removed. Using either a sawzall with suitable blade or a single style hacksaw holder carefully cut through the remaining steel bushing surround (sever by cutting front to back). Then with a hammer and sharp chisel work the bushing, on both sides of the cut, until it comes loose.

Seen it done this way on many different vehicles my uncle and dad have done many years ago. Many times if you drill it out enough the rubber will flex enough to allow you to just pound out the steel sleeve.

 

[NWForester]

Thanks guys.

If brute force and style manage to get the bushing out, how are you getting a new one back in?

 

[spressomon]

The install is snap easy. Clean up the ID with emery cloth...I used threaded rod, a couple press sleeves (Harbor Freight)/aptly sized large sockets to pull the new bushing in...

 

[super90]

I would love to come up with a proper press tool solution for these bushings, like the kind I used on my 5-series subframe bushings so many years ago. I have two 100-series trucks to do, and that tool would do both in short order. All our trucks are getting to the age where this is a maintenance issue.

Any ideas? I've been searching online for the SST's listed in the FSM but no one seems to carry them. I would gladly purchase it, do my trucks, and sell to the next guy at a discount, or maybe even rent them out.

Or maybe you are saying Harbor Freight has some sleeves that will work with threaded rod to remove and install? Maybe we figure a kit that will work with those components..

TIA

 

[spressomon]

^ You are making it more complicated than it needs to be...which is how I proceeded with LCA bushing #1 . Here's what I learned from this job: I started with homebrew press tool for the "push" side...and used a large bushing press tool apart of a HF kit on the "receive side". 3-days before I attempted this job I thoroughly soaked the bushings and frame in PB...then soaked a rag which I wrapped around each of the bushings...and then soaked heavily...and then taped a ziplock bag over the now doused and rag soaked bushings!

I had fabbed the push/pull "axle" from 5/8" grade 8 threaded rod with grade 8 nuts, for removal/install of the bushings. The bushings had 218k miles and 15-1/2 years to become thoroughly fused to the outer support member on the frame .

After several hours of fawking around including stripping two pieces of the 5/8" grd8 threaded rod, nuts and disfiguring six 1/4" thick HD washers I had stacked in triplicate along with repeated flaming to 600*F to hopefully get the damn thing to move...to no real success (before I got to the end of my cussing session I, just to finally get the bushings to move a fraction of an inch, had to use a 24" 1/2" drive breaker bar along with my floor jack to even budge the bushings)....I finally took the short cut by drilling the center bushing/rubber portion out.

I could have saved myself hours upon hours by using a more unorthodox but immeasurably more viable and faster method for removing both bushings. Save yourself a ton o-time and money and just do the drill and cut method.

BTW: The bushings themselves were in fine shape...but I don't have to wonder about them now .

 

[super90]

So cut them out.....but then we need the tool to install the new one. That's how I'm reading this, unless I missed something.

BTW, the tool I used in another vehicle had really thick threaded rod; far larger than 5/8" (maybe a full 1", but not sure that fits in this application), and the threading was really fine pitch. Lot's of mechanical advantage.

Also, I would say I have the benefit of living in dry country here in Texas and don't have the corrosion issue to contend with. Looks like that made life a little more difficult in your case spressomon. Bummer.

Thanks !!

 

[spressomon]

Yes...but 1" OD rod/bolt won't pass through that bushing; I tried to push/pull the bushing "shell" out after I drilled the center section out and it was too tight and just as a big a PITA. My sawzall made quick work of that!

All you need to install the new bushing is a piece of 3/8" threaded rod or long 3/8" bolt and a couple of sockets/press tools. Installing the bushings takes very little effort in comparison.

 

[NWForester]

It is out!

Spresso: Thanks for the tips.

What finally did it was a small torch heating up the end of a cheapo lockable folding knife. That hot knife in turn slowly dispatched the rubber. Once the center was removed, a hack saw cut the seized sleeve down the middle and a chisel drove it out.

I wonder why more people don't change out those bushings?

As for the installation, I have already wire brushed the ID and applied a coat of Rust Bullet, and was further planning on a light coat of grease when the new bushings go in. Do any suspension gurus out there see any issue with this plan?

 

[spressomon]

FWIW Loctite inhibits rust too....which is what I used. Also a good idea to tighten the LCAs to the bushings at your suspension resting height.

 

[NWForester]

FWIW Loctite inhibits rust too....which is what I used. Also a good idea to tighten the LCAs to the bushings at your suspension resting height.

Like T-bars attached, tires mounted, resting on the ground then tighten?



...via IH8MUD app

 

[spressomon]

Yes...or if your wheels are off and the truck is still on jack stands...use a jack under the LCA and measure from the center of the front hub straight up to the lower fender lip so you have about 20-21"...then tighten down the LCA mount nuts.

And the reason for indexing the bushings per above is to help reduce unnecessary wear. Might be a tad anal but by tightening the bushing mount bolts at or near suspension resting height you mitigate the bushings being under torque/tension...same for the rear UCA and LCA bushings.

And one more note: If you look under the mounting nut heads for the bushing mounts they have 4 small ridges that serve to lock the nut/keep it from vibrating loose. If you turn the nut to tighten, instead of the bolt (which is counter-intutive for most fastener tightening/loosening), you will sheer the little ridges...which renders them ineffective. Or you could rely on Loctite (red would be my preference for this application). Just an FYI.

 

[NWForester]

I appreciate the advice and will do exactly that. It makes perfect sense.

Cheers.


...via IH8MUD app

 

[NWForester]

Well, the new ones are installed, maybe...

For those of you that have done this before I have two questions regarding the installation of the new bushings:

First, the FSM I have for MY2000 shows zero washers between the bushing and the frame, I removed one washer, but the parts diagram shows two... I installed them with one, what have you done?

And second, the rubber part of the bushing has two small voids that appear to run the length of the interior. Should the voids be oriented North/South or East/West? I installed them East/West.

 

[spressomon]

Hmmm...not aware of any washers other than the single rubber coated washer/spacer that snaps onto the front side of the bushing. I just had the bushing itself and the rubber "washer"/spacer that "snaps" into place on the front side of the bushing (before the LCA is reattached). My OEM bushings were aligned so the rubber tabs within the bushing itself, the same rubber tabs the aforementioned rubber coated washer/spacer indexes to, sit horizontally.

HTH

 

[NWForester]

Hmmm...not aware of any washers other than the single rubber coated washer/spacer that snaps onto the front side of the bushing. I just had the bushing itself and the rubber "washer"/spacer that "snaps" into place on the front side of the bushing (before the LCA is reattached). My OEM bushings were aligned so the rubber tabs within the bushing itself, the same rubber tabs the aforementioned rubber coated washer/spacer indexes to, sit horizontally.

HTH

That's exactly how I oriented them, with the rubber front piece horizontal.

I checked the bushing that I cut out this morning, as it is the only one that I can verify it's original orientation because I can remember all too well where the hacksaw cut the shell, but the rubber bits are way too shredded.

If you need washers I have two extra. Beno had to special order them.



...via IH8MUD app

 

[spressomon]

Where are you using the washers? My LCA fit very snug to the new bushing...so much so I had to coerce it a little

 

[NWForester]

Where are you using the washers? My LCA fit very snug to the new bushing...so much so I had to coerce it a little

The washer is between the frame and the lip of the bushing. Admittedly I have not attached the LCA yet, weather has not allowed that yet but you can bet that I am going to tackle that next. (and I have added more paint to everything in hopes of ceasing corrosion and making things a bit more durable)

I wonder if it's vehicle specific being that your OEM setup and my MY2000 FSM had nothing, I actually removed one, and the parts diagram I use online shows two.

Going outside to test fit everything now...

...via IH8MUD app

 

[spressomon]

FWIW/FYI this is the front LCA page out of my '99 FSM. In addition to the spacer washers you mention my FSM, as you can see, doesn't depict the rubber coated indexed washer/spacer that was OEM on mine...and also included with the replacement bushing.