DEMOSTRATION PURPOSES ONLY: DO AT YOUR OWN RISK: This is a BRAKE item and involves safety. It worked for me does not mean it works for you. If you have not done any Brake repairs, please take it to the dealer/professional shop.
I've been thinking about this replacement for a while (mine had no issues: 30 seconds booster run ime). Saw threads that state it requires tech stream/scan tool etc., After seeing my cousine who fixed his 2001 Montero AISIN brke master cylinder booster pump motor repair and how he got it to work, I wanted to give a try on my LC 100.
Bought a brand new unti. The pressure sensor plug varies from oval to triangle: Check your model year first. Mine is 2000 (built 12/1999) hence an oval pressure switch wire plug: See 1st pic on my 2nd post.
Item needed:
10 mm crowfoot or a branded tool
10 and 12 mm box sockets, swivel unit and extensions
NO scantool
Gasket 4478560010
Steps:
1) Move the drivers seat back (to make room)
2) Disconnect battery and remove the charcoal canister (more room to PLAY!)
3) Remove the dash lower panel (better access)
4) Remove two 10 mm nuts holding the ABD module
5) Disconnect all wire plugs from the brake cylinder
6) Remove three mounting brackets holding right side hard brake lines to the fire wall: MAkes two tubes easy to maneuver during disconnecting/installing the brake lines from the pump
7) Loosen all 4 brake lines
8) Remove the lock pin and pushrod pin that attaches the pushrod to brake paddle.
9) Remove four 12 mm nuts hiolding the master cylinder to fire wall
10) WITHOUT bending the brake lines carefully take the master cylinder and the gasket at the firewall off
11) Install the new gasket. The convex side faces the firewall
12) WITHOUT bending the brake lines, carefully mount the new Master Cylinder (Check pushrod lines-up with the brake paddle)
13) Do NOT fix the mastercylinder to firewall with bolts: Difficult to get brake lines threaded to the master
14) WITH JUST YOUR HAND, thread brake lines into the master Cylinder: HINT: Press the brake line all the way into the Master cylinder and make sure the tube is centered and parallel in the hole: Then slide the bolt and start threading it to the master cylinder: I did it this way and it worked! Thread it all the way it goes.
15) Install the pushrod pin to the paddle
16) Install four 12 mm bolts
17 Connect all wire plugs
18) Install the charcoal canister
Bleeding process is shown in the sticky note!: It is the summary from a youtube video
19) LAST step on the bleeding process (shown in the sticky note): be READY to see a stream of fluid from two lines pointed towards the engine (brake lines for rear brakes): Cover the engine! The front two brake lines pointed towards the battery are for front wheels, and it will drip (unlike the rear two). After following the last step on sticky note, I manually bled these two lines as you normally do (still not much pressure).
20) Bleed all 4 calipers: The Video tells the front two will bleed automatically. I am not sure about this but bleeding the front from the caliper makes you wonder why it bleeds so slow.
21) TEST the brakes BEFORE driving on street.
I've been thinking about this replacement for a while (mine had no issues: 30 seconds booster run ime). Saw threads that state it requires tech stream/scan tool etc., After seeing my cousine who fixed his 2001 Montero AISIN brke master cylinder booster pump motor repair and how he got it to work, I wanted to give a try on my LC 100.
Bought a brand new unti. The pressure sensor plug varies from oval to triangle: Check your model year first. Mine is 2000 (built 12/1999) hence an oval pressure switch wire plug: See 1st pic on my 2nd post.
Item needed:
10 mm crowfoot or a branded tool
10 and 12 mm box sockets, swivel unit and extensions
NO scantool
Gasket 4478560010
Steps:
1) Move the drivers seat back (to make room)
2) Disconnect battery and remove the charcoal canister (more room to PLAY!)
3) Remove the dash lower panel (better access)
4) Remove two 10 mm nuts holding the ABD module
5) Disconnect all wire plugs from the brake cylinder
6) Remove three mounting brackets holding right side hard brake lines to the fire wall: MAkes two tubes easy to maneuver during disconnecting/installing the brake lines from the pump
7) Loosen all 4 brake lines
8) Remove the lock pin and pushrod pin that attaches the pushrod to brake paddle.
9) Remove four 12 mm nuts hiolding the master cylinder to fire wall
10) WITHOUT bending the brake lines carefully take the master cylinder and the gasket at the firewall off
11) Install the new gasket. The convex side faces the firewall
12) WITHOUT bending the brake lines, carefully mount the new Master Cylinder (Check pushrod lines-up with the brake paddle)
13) Do NOT fix the mastercylinder to firewall with bolts: Difficult to get brake lines threaded to the master
14) WITH JUST YOUR HAND, thread brake lines into the master Cylinder: HINT: Press the brake line all the way into the Master cylinder and make sure the tube is centered and parallel in the hole: Then slide the bolt and start threading it to the master cylinder: I did it this way and it worked! Thread it all the way it goes.
15) Install the pushrod pin to the paddle
16) Install four 12 mm bolts
17 Connect all wire plugs
18) Install the charcoal canister
Bleeding process is shown in the sticky note!: It is the summary from a youtube video
19) LAST step on the bleeding process (shown in the sticky note): be READY to see a stream of fluid from two lines pointed towards the engine (brake lines for rear brakes): Cover the engine! The front two brake lines pointed towards the battery are for front wheels, and it will drip (unlike the rear two). After following the last step on sticky note, I manually bled these two lines as you normally do (still not much pressure).
20) Bleed all 4 calipers: The Video tells the front two will bleed automatically. I am not sure about this but bleeding the front from the caliper makes you wonder why it bleeds so slow.
21) TEST the brakes BEFORE driving on street.
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