LandCruiser 100 Brake Master Cylinder Installation - The Easy Way! (1 Viewer)

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DEMOSTRATION PURPOSES ONLY: DO AT YOUR OWN RISK: This is a BRAKE item and involves safety. It worked for me does not mean it works for you. If you have not done any Brake repairs, please take it to the dealer/professional shop.

I've been thinking about this replacement for a while (mine had no issues: 30 seconds booster run ime). Saw threads that state it requires tech stream/scan tool etc., After seeing my cousine who fixed his 2001 Montero AISIN brke master cylinder booster pump motor repair and how he got it to work, I wanted to give a try on my LC 100.

Bought a brand new unti. The pressure sensor plug varies from oval to triangle: Check your model year first. Mine is 2000 (built 12/1999) hence an oval pressure switch wire plug: See 1st pic on my 2nd post.

Item needed:
10 mm crowfoot or a branded tool
10 and 12 mm box sockets, swivel unit and extensions
NO scantool :)

Gasket 4478560010


Steps:

1) Move the drivers seat back (to make room)
2) Disconnect battery and remove the charcoal canister (more room to PLAY!)
3) Remove the dash lower panel (better access)
4) Remove two 10 mm nuts holding the ABD module
5) Disconnect all wire plugs from the brake cylinder
6) Remove three mounting brackets holding right side hard brake lines to the fire wall: MAkes two tubes easy to maneuver during disconnecting/installing the brake lines from the pump
7) Loosen all 4 brake lines
8) Remove the lock pin and pushrod pin that attaches the pushrod to brake paddle.
9) Remove four 12 mm nuts hiolding the master cylinder to fire wall
10) WITHOUT bending the brake lines carefully take the master cylinder and the gasket at the firewall off
11) Install the new gasket. The convex side faces the firewall
12) WITHOUT bending the brake lines, carefully mount the new Master Cylinder (Check pushrod lines-up with the brake paddle)
13) Do NOT fix the mastercylinder to firewall with bolts: Difficult to get brake lines threaded to the master
14) WITH JUST YOUR HAND, thread brake lines into the master Cylinder: HINT: Press the brake line all the way into the Master cylinder and make sure the tube is centered and parallel in the hole: Then slide the bolt and start threading it to the master cylinder: I did it this way and it worked! Thread it all the way it goes.
15) Install the pushrod pin to the paddle
16) Install four 12 mm bolts
17 Connect all wire plugs
18) Install the charcoal canister

Bleeding process is shown in the sticky note!: It is the summary from a youtube video


19) LAST step on the bleeding process (shown in the sticky note): be READY to see a stream of fluid from two lines pointed towards the engine (brake lines for rear brakes): Cover the engine! The front two brake lines pointed towards the battery are for front wheels, and it will drip (unlike the rear two). After following the last step on sticky note, I manually bled these two lines as you normally do (still not much pressure).

20) Bleed all 4 calipers: The Video tells the front two will bleed automatically. I am not sure about this but bleeding the front from the caliper makes you wonder why it bleeds so slow.

21) TEST the brakes BEFORE driving on street.

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Last edited:
Joined
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Messages
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The oval pressure plug is in the first picture

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20220905_184443.jpg


20220905_184451.jpg
 
Last edited:
Joined
Nov 20, 2020
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Location
Australia
Mines a 1999 hzj105r (Australia) and it doesn't have that pressure switch plug at all.

The pressure switch malfunction (code 54) is actually the one giving me trouble, and instead of paying thousands to replace the master cylinder (already has new pump motor and accumulator, fills in 35secons) I just did what another bloke here said and remove the middle of 3 plugs going into the ECU in the cab.

Definitely feel the brakes have less power but what can I do when I don't have the money to spend?
 
Joined
Sep 9, 2016
Messages
2,209
Location
Odessa/Midland TX
Mines a 1999 hzj105r (Australia) and it doesn't have that pressure switch plug at all.

The pressure switch malfunction (code 54) is actually the one giving me trouble, and instead of paying thousands to replace the master cylinder (already has new pump motor and accumulator, fills in 35secons) I just did what another bloke here said and remove the middle of 3 plugs going into the ECU in the cab.

Definitely feel the brakes have less power but what can I do when I don't have the money to spend?
Did someone installed a different varient? I think the 99 in the US has a diff lock instead of ATRAC: may be this could be the reason. The new unit (Entire assembly) was $2500 and then suddently toyota lowered it to about $1750 and then there was a promotion went on so many got this part for US$ 1100: I bought it for $1350 from a another dealer with about a month long waiting time.
 
Joined
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Location
Odessa/Midland TX
New discoveries after the install:

1) On a cold start the booster pump runs 24-25 seconds and stays inactive for a while (10+ minutes) even if I apply breaks or not! My old unit took 29-30 seconds to build the pressure (Used same wrist watch) and comes back on within 2-3 minutes, if I move it forward or back with brake.

2) Since it is a TX truck all it's life, I open the DC motor wire hosing/cover/boot: The bolts are still golden and identical to the new unit! Not a spec of dust inside!

3) Highly motivated to travel long distances.....
 

ClassyJalopy

Congenitally insane nor irretrievably stupid...
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thanks for the write up! What is the shiny wrapping in your engine bay for?
 
Joined
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thanks for the write up! What is the shiny wrapping in your engine bay for?
Just an Aluminum foil insulator for the AC suction line. I have it on my 92 corolla from factory. It is near the manifold so just an extra insulation. Right under the Aluminum foil, I have added AC insulator form tube, one we used to insulate home ac suction lines.
 

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