KZJ95 Diesel stuck at 1000 rpm - 10 kmph

[MobyN]

Hi Guys,

I had posted the query in the 95 series section, but didnt quite get a solution. Maybe others from a different series might have faced this issue.

The thing is my automatic diesel 95 series prado somehow gets an rpm cap at 1000 rpm. The vehicle then simply does not cross 10 kmph. I am then required to shut the engine and the problem disappears on restarting.
Also, this happens around the 25 to 30 kilometer mark. When the vehicle is taken out and driven for say 30 kms, and either a traffic signal of traffic jam where the vehicle is in idling rpm, the vehicle then refuses to go past a few hundred rpms from idling.

Sometimes, the engine check light too comes on when this happens. This is very frustrating and limiting my drives to within city confines should something more serious occur when Im travelling intercity and stranded in the middle of nowhere.

Shall appreciate your inputs.

Moby.

 

[bumpstopbrawler26]

Sounds like it could be a dodgy tps sensor. Try bridging E1 and TE1 in the diagnostic connector and see what codes it logs. If the engine check light is coming on, it's logged something.

 

[MobyN]

Sounds like it could be a dodgy tps sensor. Try bridging E1 and TE1 in the diagnostic connector and see what codes it logs. If the engine check light is coming on, it's logged something.

Thank you.
Noobish question. Will this require a scan tool?
Or a jumper wire/steel paper clip will work just fine?

 

[bumpstopbrawler26]

Any kind of conductive wire or metal should work. When you count them, it'll flash the check engine light. If it logged say, code 32, it'll flash 3 times, then pause momentarily and flash twice. See how you go

 

[MobyN]

Any kind of conductive wire or metal should work. When you count them, it'll flash the check engine light. If it logged say, code 32, it'll flash 3 times, then pause momentarily and flash twice. See how you go

I see two ports which are similar looking.
There is 'diagnosis' under the hood, but paper clips arent yielding any result.
The other one looking similar to diagnosis is beneath the steering column, but hasnt got a cover. So I am not able to figure out which is E1 and which is TE1 and not sure whether to go around tampering the one on the inside.

 

[bumpstopbrawler26]

Yeah it's the one under the bonnet. Should have a label in it telling you what pins they are. You'll have to put the ignition on after you bridge it, forgot to mention that.

 

[MobyN]

Yeah it's the one under the bonnet. Should have a label in it telling you what pins they are. You'll have to put the ignition on after you bridge it, forgot to mention that.

Hey!
Yeah, I did turn the key to 'ON'. Didnt crank it. All the LEDs glow (tbelt, engine light, filter light, etc) and the lights are stable. No flashes at all.
Saw a few vids on youtube too since I havent tried this earlier.

 

[bumpstopbrawler26]

Maybe keep your paper clip with you, and if it plays up on the road and the check light is on, pull over and bridge the connector before you shut it down.

 

[MobyN]

Maybe keep your paper clip with you, and if it plays up on the road and the check light is on, pull over and bridge the connector before you shut it down.

Sure.
But, wont there be issues in bridging them with the engine running?

So I bridge it with the engine running. Shut down the engine. Then turn the key to ON and observe the flashes. Is that right?

 

[IanB]

Get yourself a service manual, in all likelihood anything with that engine from that era should have the same procedures for pulling codes via the diagnostic port. They are available for free download if you have a look around.

With the manual, you'll be able to learn how to pull the code, what the code means, and how to remedy the issue.

 

[KiwiDan80]

Pull your engine ecu out and check it for leaking capacitors, very common on this era toyota diesels.

 

[bumpstopbrawler26]

You should be able to just get out the car and bridge it while it's running. I'll check on mine, see if it works