Knuckle Rebuild (1 Viewer)

[lakeway1]

How hard is it to do this and is their any special tool I might need? Have done some work on my rig myself but nothing major or should I just pay and have it done? anyone know the cost to have this done? anyone out there that can give me a refferal. I'm in Austin Tx. Thanks, Rich

 

[REKCUT]

Try these

https://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wagons/18947-how-can-one-tell-when-knuckle-needs-rebuilt.html
https://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wagons/46447-birfield-repack-info.html
http://www.birfield.com/~morgan/tech/axle/index.html

P.S. it is also in the sticky section at the beginning of the 60 threads

 

[takeitforgranite]

That's a s***-ton of labor. I would imagine both sides would run upwards of 600 bucks, just for labor. And that's with shopping around. I'm going to do mine myself when I get around to lifting the ol' rustbucket... The kits (with wheel bearings) are only around $170 or less... Plus, you get to learn how to change a birfield! Yay!

 

[Heartworm]

You will save a lot of money if you do it yourself. You can find adequate instructions on this board although I would recommend that you get the Toyota FSM too. You will want to have: A large brass drift (NAPA), a 54 mm socket, a good snap ring plier, a special wrench to remove the brake line without screwing up the nut, LOTS of rags, some brake cleaner, good metric sockets, a fish scale, Several tubs of multipurpose grease, new gear lube to refill diff, a pickle fork to pull tie rod end, brake fluid, some rubber gloves, ...did I say lots of rags? If you are going to do this, consider this an opportunity to also do the tie rod ends and if needed the front brakes. If you do it Wham/Bam (very little parts cleaning) your cruiser will not be down more than 1-2 days. If you meticulously clean and paint parts, it will take longer. These projects can take on a life of their own..new rubber brake hoses for example. Not an expensive part but something that is easy to replace at the time. Without looking up the exact figures, I believe that I did front end seal and bearings, plus brake pads, lines and calipers, front end alignment for about $400 parts.

 

[dixie_cragger]

You CAN do it yourself and this forum has all the knowledge to get your through it. I'm a half wrencher and i managed thru TWO axle jobs My only advice to you would be a cheap parts washer (think harbor freight). i would say 60% of the time was just cleaning the parts.

Just so you know, what eventually convinced me to do it myself was the 8.5 hr labor quote from the shop...Not sure what your local mechanic shop charges an hr but whatever it is, 8.5x is PRICEY!

 

[Tvaldriz]

I just did a front axel rebuild on my FJ60 about a month ago.

I am not mechanically inclined. In addition to the excellent advice
given above as to the tools;

1) Do one side at a time (use the other side as a reference)
2)Get some cheap rubber gloves ( a box)
3)Get about 3 rolls of paper towels
4)Get a large plastic garbage bag (for towel waste)
5)Get at least 4 gallon size zip lock bags for parts on each side

6)Get a good degreaser and a large bucket to rinse your parts off with.

7)Get your parts including the upgrades seals from Marlincrawler. They are the best.
8)USE A FACTORY SERVICE MANUAL. They give the proper torque
specs and give a much better view of disassembly and assembly.

Take your time and don't fret. You can do it.

 

[cfdlighthouse]

you can do it yourself. I just did a couple weeks ago https://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wagons/202561-1983-fj60-build-up.html there are some pics and my thoughts on the process. i had to replace a birfield on drivers side, seals, bearings, rotors, pads, and calipers. total cost alittle over 500.00. took me around six hours alone. i already had all the tools except for the brass drifts which are a must. proper tools and follow the threads given earlier all the instructions and pictures you will need and you will be fine.
good luck!

 

[lakeway1]

Thanks ya'll are awesome and thanks for the confidence!

 

[D'Animal]

You could also join your local TLCA club and get some help during a wrenching weekend.

 

[jacksfj62]

This is not an overly hard job just be prepared for grease every where and make sure you have plenty of shop towels around. Just finished mine last weekend and it made a noticeable difference in the front end. Also double check to make sure that your free spinning hubs are working correctly or it will be like you are driving with the hubs locked all the time. Also if you do not have any, go get some brass drifts and punches.

 

[5280Hawk]

I think doing a knuckle job yourself, is kind of a right of passage for FJ owners.

Good Luck!

 

[Michael.lee]

Newbie here... what the hell is a Brass Drift? {I found some online- long cyclindrical things right- but my question is what are they used for?}

I am pretty inexperienced at wrenching on my cruiser- but I enjoy learning as much as I can. Fortunately {knock on wood} nothing needs fixing and I don't have the cash for a mod- but I know pretty soon here I'll have a chance to get my hands dirty again. Just explaining to excuse any stupid questions I might ask...

 

[VETTE60]

a brass drift is essentially a punch made of brass. it is used for removing and installing bearing races without messing them up. it is used because the softer brass wont marr the harder metal.

 

[Tvaldriz]

You could also join your local TLCA club
and get some help during a wrenching weekend.

2x. I met D'animal after asking around for a TLCA club that has
wrenching days. He graciously invited me over and we did the
front axel rebuild at his shop with other members of Central Valley
Crawlers around to help and give encouragement.

 

[cfdlighthouse]

Newbie here... what the hell is a Brass Drift? {I found some online- long cyclindrical things right- but my question is what are they used for?}

I am pretty inexperienced at wrenching on my cruiser- but I enjoy learning as much as I can. Fortunately {knock on wood} nothing needs fixing and I don't have the cash for a mod- but I know pretty soon here I'll have a chance to get my hands dirty again. Just explaining to excuse any stupid questions I might ask...

as has been said its a brass punch. NAPA carries them get a straight bar and a tapered punch. the tapered punch will help with the bearing races and the bar will be key in getting the knuckle bolt and hub keeper lock wedges out.

 

[cfdlighthouse]

heres a picture of mine. they make them longer and with larger diameters but these worked great form me

NAPA #902 and 904

 

[zipnman]

i just did a knuckle rebuild myself. Its not complicated, just dirty, and time consuming, Before you start make sure you have all the tools you need. Their is lots of info in the forums on completing the job. Best Suggestion, is to get a parts washer you will save a ton of time.

good luck

 

[fjdemon]

I had my clutch replaced, rear main seal, front axle rebuilt, timing adjusted. Parts + labor $800, however, I don't think this is the normal price, b/c toyota wanted like $600 just to do the axle alone

 

[5280Hawk]

I had my clutch replaced, rear main seal, front axle rebuilt, timing adjusted. Parts + labor $800, however, I don't think this is the normal price, b/c toyota wanted like $600 just to do the axle alone

You got a good deal my friend.

 

[fowldarr]

That...is a great deal. I plan on doing my own this summer, but pretty much everything attached to the front axle needs replaced, so it will be a job.