Knuckle rebuild tools

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lelandEOD

lelandEOD

SILVER Star
10 Year
Joined
Aug 21, 2012
Threads
214
Messages
2,217
Location
Dayton, Nevada
I'm about ready to tackle my front brake conversion. Basically, my 40 is getting a set of Mini-truck knuckles/spindles and inner axles, '95 4Runner calipers, MC and FJ60 rotors.

Someone mentioned at one of the club meetings that the club owns a set of knuckle alignment tools for members to borrow. Well, I'm going to need to borrow them presently if they are still to be had!

Also, if there is any interest, I'd love to make an afternoon out of the axle rebuild if anyone would like to volunteer their time, knowledge or even moral support. I can supply the frosty beverages and pizza.

I think it would be cool to have a few other 'cruiserheads over for an afternoon.
 
I believe the birfield SST is in the custody of our illustrious Royal Potentate AKA Chicago.

Of course you know that in addition to the normal sockets etc you will need a die grinder and carbide burr to clearance the axle for the new birfields.


I strongly recommend a few rolls of toilet paper to clean the old muck out of the knuckle.


Another helpful trick is to hit the outside of the knuckles/axle with oven cleaner overnight. Most of the caked up crud will wipe off the next day.
 
If I am available, I will lend a hand. Nothing like front axle servicing on a closed knuckle system. I will re-iterate Rusty's comments, plenty of paper towels, rags, brake cleaner, kerosene or other parts cleaner, rubber gloves, clothes/coveralls that you don't mind getting dirty and patience with the circlips.

Are the birfields you are using by themselves? Will you need to pack them and install them onto the 40 inner axles?

Jack
 
I DO have the SST and the dial calipers. Lemme know how you want me to get them to you.
I recall that we were charging a 10-15 dollar rental charge to re coop the cost (eventually)?
I've found that the easiest way to loosen the cone washers is to hit the end of the stud w/ a brass drift.
Don't forget to get the HD seals!!!! A bit more expensive, but worth every penny!!!
 
chicago said:
I DO have the SST and the dial calipers. Lemme know how you want me to get them to you.
I recall that we were charging a 10-15 dollar rental charge to re coop the cost (eventually)?
I've found that the easiest way to loosen the cone washers is to hit the end of the stud w/ a brass drift.
Don't forget to get the HD seals!!!! A bit more expensive, but worth every penny!!!
Click to expand...

From the Sept. 13, 2011 meeting. From my limited memory I thought it was a package rental and checking further minutes I can find no notes on any additional fee for the caliper .

6. Other: Motion made and seconded to purchase an axle centering tool, and rent it out at $20.00 per use. Motion carried. Motion made and seconded to purchase a 12” dial caliper for use with the centering tool. Motion carried.
 
flexing40 said:
From the Sept. 13, 2011 meeting. From my limited memory I thought it was a package rental and checking further minutes I can find no notes on any additional fee for the caliper .

6. Other: Motion made and seconded to purchase an axle centering tool, and rent it out at $20.00 per use. Motion carried. Motion made and seconded to purchase a 12” dial caliper for use with the centering tool. Motion carried.
Click to expand...

Yes, of course it would be a "package" rental.
I picked up the calipers, so it's all here. Only thing I didn't do was copy the FSM directions.
 
I posted this in the 40/55 series forum and haven't gotten a lot of replies. Can anyone shed light on my alignment issues as described below?

I can't find any information in the FSM to direct me on this so I turn to the collective wisdom of the forum.

I started rebuilding my front axle yesterday and, using the Toyota SST, got some strange (or maybe not so strange) results.

Basically, I mounted up the tool in the claw and scribed my line, center of the axle bore.

Then, I moved the tool to the knuckle/spindle and did the same thing.
(I also took special care NOT to flip the SST upside down and kept it in the correct orientation)

However, when I look at the FSM, it says I should subtract 3mm or .012" from the distance between the scribed lines to find the total thickness of the bottom shim.

...well, when I use the tool as described in the FSM, I get somewhere between .095 to .012" of total distance between the scribed lines. The FSM makes no mention of what to do in the event that the distance between the scribed lines basically cancel out the lower knuckle shim. What's more, I know I'm getting some error in my measurements because there is a lot of wiggle room between the SST and the bronze axle bushing in the spindle. Maybe, like .010" or so...

A: How tight should the SST fit into the bore of the spindle?
B: Should I replace the bronze spindle bushing?
C: Is it easy to remove the spindle bushings (I have a press) or will I have to take the spindles to a shop?
 
Wow... That's confusing. Not sure what's going on.

The SST should be snug. When I've done it I had set it to where there was SOME resistance when moving the arm side to side. It's been a while though.

What are the bronze spindle bushings you're referring to?? Are you talking about the bearing races? If its the bearing races, they should be replaced when a new bearing is installed. I've only seen those as steel.
 
I went out and attempted to use the SST to find the shim thickness for the passenger's side today. I'm getting the exact same results. To make things more interesting, when I looked at the diagrams again in the FSM, I noticed that it appears the SST arm is not attached to the shaft when the measurement is taken for the knuckle/spindle. I was leaving the arm attached to the shaft when I moved it from the axle to the knuckle to be sure of my orientation. For a split second I thought, "Ah ha! That's the problem!" I was thinking that leaving the arm on the shaft was throwing off the measurement because of the added thickness of the sheet metal. But, I was backwards... When I removed the arm from the SST shaft and remeasured, the distance between the scribed lines was actually reduced rather than increased. To the point where they are almost overlapping.

This FSM is almost completely worthless to me right now.

I am at a complete loss.
 
No pic came up?
 
not to hi-jack but I would like to also rent the knuckle alignment tool in the future as I screwed up my shims on one side and want to double check the other. I am in Quincy CA on hwy 70. are their directions on how to use the tool with the rental?
 
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