Knock sensor issue (1 Viewer)

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just try to swap one that you know that is currently on the truck, such as the purge vlave. if both valves operate the same way (normally open or normally closed) then it will work for testing purposes

Awesome thanks , should be easy to test , getting to it is the hard part
 
just try to swap one that you know that is currently on the truck, such as the purge vlave. if both valves operate the same way (normally open or normally closed) then it will work for testing purposes
Gday mate
I have tested both the solenoid valve and both seam to function as they should

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There is continuity between ECM and KS connector
There is continuity between earth and the shielding
There is no continuity between earth and KS connector.

On the rear KS I had to extend the wiring by 4 to 5 inches, it is not sheilded , I wouldn't have thought that would be an issue would it?
 
I wouldn't have thought that would be an issue would it?

that little bit of extending the harness shouldnt make a difference, usually the shielding is back a bit from the connector anyways. sounds like your harness is good, you could check for a short to b+ but i would think that that is unlikely given that the harness has tested good so far. whats your ecu p/n, i know that for the us market theres a number that those ecus can have issues.

did you test the sensors, its just a continuity check between the pin and body of the sensor

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that little bit of extending the harness shouldnt make a difference, usually the shielding is back a bit from the connector anyways. sounds like your harness is good, you could check for a short to b+ but i would think that that is unlikely given that the harness has tested good so far. whats your ecu p/n, i know that for the us market theres a number that those ecus can have issues.

did you test the sensors, its just a continuity check between the pin and body of the sensor

View attachment 2175252
cheers mate
i have checked the sensors to make sure there is no continuity, i have also purchased new (after market) KS
we have tried another ECM from a friends car ,same model and year
 
I am just going to throw in my 2 cents, Mine was having the same issue, and i could never find the problem I just cut the wire to the "bad" knock sensor and spliced it into the one "good" knock sensor to the other and I have been just fine 15k miles later. Definitely not the proper way, but it worked for me. I would recommend you find the proper way and letting me know but in a emergency it will work.
 
I am just going to throw in my 2 cents, Mine was having the same issue, and i could never find the problem I just cut the wire to the "bad" knock sensor and spliced it into the one "good" knock sensor to the other and I have been just fine 15k miles later. Definitely not the proper way, but it worked for me. I would recommend you find the proper way and letting me know but in a emergency it will work.
I have just done this and it hasn't thrown a cel as yet , it's only a band aid fix hey , I plan to find out what the issue is , but at least we can drive not in limp mode .
What makes it hard to understand is the car runs like a dream , awesome to drive
 
Check out this thread I had to deal with a very strange knock sensor issue a few months back.. The outer shielding on the wire had shorted against the core causing a short to ground and the knock sensor cel..

 
Check out this thread I had to deal with a very strange knock sensor issue a few months back.. The outer shielding on the wire had shorted against the core causing a short to ground and the knock sensor cel..

Cheers mate
It's not that , I've tested the wiring
 
Check out this thread I had to deal with a very strange knock sensor issue a few months back.. The outer shielding on the wire had shorted against the core causing a short to ground and the knock sensor cel..


although, when we first bought the car it threw a code 52 (front KS) turns out it was that exact same problem you had, so i rewired it and no more code 52 . however it then started to throw code 55 (rear KS) and i still cant figure out why, the next step is to look down the spark plug holes to see if there is any carbon build up, also probably get injectors cleaned and tested, other than that i dont know.
currently the wiring for the rear KS is connected to the front KS, this has fooled the system and no more cel
so im thinking something is happening in cylinder 5 or 6, cylinder 5 had a different plug to other cylinders, we have since changed the plugs with the correct ones, but my thinking is could that odd spark plug have caused some damage
 
Finally figured it out , thanks to bigredmachine
Turns out it was a faulty knock sensor, what are the odds of buying 2 brand new knock sensors and 1 of them is faulty.

Thanks all for your help and input
 

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