Keyless, Stereo, AMP and inclinometer install

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Joined
Mar 29, 2006
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1,130
Location
AZ
(Sorry if the orientation of the pic changes when you click on it - not sure why it's acting the way)
So I finally pieced together all the required parts.
CA4000 autoloc keyless entry w/alarm (ca4000 SKU::140783)
Alpine deck (inside Tuffy Box)
Apline amp (mounted in rear quarter panel)
Polk speakers front and rear.
Second skin audio dampener.

There's been some discussion as to where to mount the rear door actuators. Hopefully you can see how I mounted mine. I'll try to post pics as I go.

Here's the rear door. I heard that when others went to install the rears they had to reverse it and the wires. But this way it works fine also



Front door you can see the new screw head near the bottom; that's where the actuator is on the inside


My spacer or remount ring I made. Took a while to get it to sit flush. That's where my new polk 6.5's are going to mount to.


Here's a shot of the front door home made door "loom". got the tip from another mudder. Get a good size tubing, since the front doors have about 9 wires going to it. (5 for the actutor, 2 speakers, 2 tweeter) This you need to plan ahead you only want to do it once. Fishing the wires through frame isn't as easy as you think. I used zip ties and cut off the ends, taped together 2 or 3 to get enough length and then tied the wire to the end.



Here's the passenger door. Went with a small size tubing, since it's only two wires. You can see the factory stock black plug.



Here's the door with second skin on the exterior of the door panel. Advice here is wear mechanics gloves. My hand have so many paper/metal cuts from handling the second skin material. Also I think I should have had the door handle linkage exposed or on the outside of the second skin. The tackiness gives it a little fiction on the initial door handle pull. I also thought I went to what I thought was the perimeter of the door panel, but when I installed it, I had gone too far over. So I had to trim some if off.


Door panel mounted with speaker and tweeter



Where I mounted the crossover


Here's where I mounted my amp.
 
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this thread is worthless without pictures (why don't we have a smiley for this yet?)
 
man i love power locks. my 88 doesnt have them but im sure that i will add them soon. What part #s or kit did you buy(for the auto lock) and if you could tell me how much you paid for it that would be great. Anyway, keep posting pics of you progress i will be :popcorn: suscribed the whole way through.
Thanks and good luck on the rest of your install.
Paul
 
i did the full auto lock (hofman) on my last 60 wired the lights to flash and a fuel cut off , dont use the universal gold colored brackets or the scews that come with the kit , also buy your self a 5th solenoid and do the tail gate splice into one of the rear door circuits , works like a hot damn . very good quality kit . also when doing the rear doors you will need to install them in reverse to pull instead of pushing , you will see what i mean when you start into it , i found self tapping drill head screws to be my " best friend " , i also should mention you are going to need to take off the front seat belt trim and drill thru the pillar .

i was in a big hurry and took zero pics sorry !
 
i did the full auto lock (hofman) on my last 60 wired the lights to flash and a fuel cut off , dont use the universal gold colored brackets or the scews that come with the kit , also buy your self a 5th solenoid and do the tail gate splice into one of the rear door circuits , works like a hot damn . very good quality kit . also when doing the rear doors you will need to install them in reverse to pull instead of pushing , you will see what i mean when you start into it , i found self tapping drill head screws to be my " best friend " , i also should mention you are going to need to take off the front seat belt trim and drill thru the pillar .

i was in a big hurry and took zero pics sorry ![/Q

How much did all of that run you? how many :banana: job would you say it was?
Thanks,
Paul
 
i did the full auto lock (hofman) on my last 60 wired the lights to flash and a fuel cut off , dont use the universal gold colored brackets or the scews that come with the kit , also buy your self a 5th solenoid and do the tail gate splice into one of the rear door circuits , works like a hot damn . very good quality kit . also when doing the rear doors you will need to install them in reverse to pull instead of pushing , you will see what i mean when you start into it , i found self tapping drill head screws to be my " best friend " , i also should mention you are going to need to take off the front seat belt trim and drill thru the pillar .

i was in a big hurry and took zero pics sorry !

Yeah I have the relay for the lights but isn't a priority now but maybe I'll install it if I have some extra time. You right you don't need the brackets that come with the kit.

You say "fuel cut off"? Do you mean starter kill? If' it's fuel cut off please describe, I'm interested.

No need to drill through the "metal" of front seat belt pillar. There is a rubber plug, just make a hole (by drilling), maybe that's where the 62's have a rubber loom for the power to the rear doors? I did have to drill into the passenger door. I'll post more pics tomorrow.
 
i did a fuel cut it was a bj60 ( diesel ) i wired it into the fuel control relay when the doors locked the fuel relay got no power , yeah no need to drill the fronts , the rears need drilling this is ( was ) a big job , i like doing wiring and electrical but this involves alot of testing fitting thinking ect. i would give this a :banana::banana::banana: rating if you arent comfortable doing wiring i had my door skins on and off about four times before i got it working well routing the wires inside of the doors so they dont get caught in the window a biggie it cost me around $250 including all relays wiring and extra solenoids .

does the 60 use an electrical or mechanical fuel pump easy enough to wire a kill switch for an electrical fuel pump .

best mod ever even better than my warn xd 9000i my 2.5 inch old man emu's or my 33" bfg's .

:cool:
 
i did a fuel cut it was a bj60 ( diesel ) i wired it into the fuel control relay when the doors locked the fuel relay got no power , yeah no need to drill the fronts , the rears need drilling this is ( was ) a big job , i like doing wiring and electrical but this involves alot of testing fitting thinking ect. i would give this a :banana::banana::banana: rating if you arent comfortable doing wiring i had my door skins on and off about four times before i got it working well routing the wires inside of the doors so they dont get caught in the window a biggie it cost me around $250 including all relays wiring and extra solenoids .

does the 60 use an electrical or mechanical fuel pump easy enough to wire a kill switch for an electrical fuel pump .

best mod ever even better than my warn xd 9000i my 2.5 inch old man emu's or my 33" bfg's .

:cool:

I know what you mean, I think I sat in the cab for probably 30mins at a time just talking it out as to what I was going to do.

Yes the hardest part is finding the right wires to splice into.

FJ60 have mechanical fuel pumps, so I used the relay on the starter/ignition.

Did I mentioned I started this a month ago :bang: just a few hours during the week and a few on the weekends. I couple thousand trips to ACE Hardware for electrical connections and wire. I think what made this install time consuming is that I'm doing the radio install and new speakers all the way around. If I was going to do it again, I"m sure I could knock it out in 4-6hrs.

New Pictures uploaded!
To everybody out there following along - I'm just going to keep adding to the 1st as I go along
 
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S&S, your gonna want to secure the front of the actuator. without that front support the actuator attachment will work its way loose.
 

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