Kem Kromik Experience (1 Viewer)

[MichiganFJ60]

Did a quick search and only found one mention of Kem Kromik on MUD. Any chance others have had experience with this product?

I'm having my frame sandblasted next week, and the blaster mentioned Sherwin Williams Kem Kromik primer. Just wondering how you guys think it might stack up against some of the other options out there. I'm looking for something I can apply myself without spraying (no equipment) that will do a good job of protecting and preserving the frame.

Thanks!

 

[tmonty]

Tractor paint (primer/paint) is the easiest & best for frames!!!

You can get them at TSC (Tractor Supply Corp), Rural King, Farm & Fleet, etc.....

Most farm type stores carry these 2 products & they stick very good to the frame!!!!

 

[ntsqd]

S-W Marine/Industrial Coatings earned a high mark at the power plant that I used to work at. It sits right on the beach, so corrosion is a huge factor in literally every job there.
That said I've no experience with that exact product. Did one of S-W's Marine/Industrial specialists recommend it?

 

[MichiganFJ60]

Did one of S-W's Marine/Industrial specialists recommend it?

Nope, just the fellow who's going to blast the frame. Apparently he's used it on some of his restorations.

Based upon its intended applications, it sounds like a viable option. Of course, I have no idea how much it costs yet. I'll have to call Sherwin Williams tomorrow to find out.

 

[ntsqd]

The common answer would be POR-15, but POR doesn't like freshly blasted metal. It doesn't stick very well to it. POR wants some rust to adhere to. BT, DT.

POR is an outgrowth of the whole industrial & marine coatings industry. They were who pioneered the moisture curing polyurethane coating chemistry that POR is based on. Oft times availability to a home user is poor, but industrial coatings are far better when applied properly than any of the easy answers (like POR-15).

 

[DrivingMissRosey]

Check out eastwoods.com. They sell Rustbullet which in some circles has better results than POR 15 and have tools to get the inside of the frame. I'm not affiliated with the company.

 

[Spike Strip]

That S/W Kromik frequently gets used for bridges near salt water. I looked into it when I painted my frame, but it was difficult to get without driving lots of miles, so I ended up just phosphorilyzing the bare spots with some Home Depot metal etch, neutralizing with lots of pressures washes, then top coating with Chassis Black. Has held up great, but then I'm in So Cal ...

Any moisture-cured Urethane top coat will hold up just fine.

Paint Over Rust to Stop Rust Permanently With Chassis Saver Truck & Auto Underbody Coating

 

[MichiganFJ60]

Kem Kromik

The common answer would be POR-15, but POR doesn't like freshly blasted metal. It doesn't stick very well to it. POR wants some rust to adhere to. BT, DT.

And that's what has discouraged me from using POR-15. Additionally, the results seem to be a bit mixed.

Check out eastwoods.com. They sell Rustbullet which in some circles has better results than POR 15 and have tools to get the inside of the frame. I'm not affiliated with the company.

Checked them out, and they look good. I wonder, though, if they really offer enough to justify the price. At 100.00 or so a gallon, the price for Rust Bullet is double the Sherwin Williams Kem Kromik.

That S/W Kromik frequently gets used for bridges near salt water. I looked into it when I painted my frame, but it was difficult to get without driving lots of miles, so I ended up just phosphorilyzing the bare spots with some Home Depot metal etch, neutralizing with lots of pressures washes, then top coating with Chassis Black. Has held up great, but then I'm in So Cal ...

Any moisture-cured Urethane top coat will hold up just fine.

Paint Over Rust to Stop Rust Permanently With Chassis Saver Truck & Auto Underbody Coating

It turns out that my local, small-town S/W actually sells the stuff for only 43.00/gal. Unless there's a compelling reason to avoid the Kem Kromik or to use another product, I think I'll give it a try.

Thanks for the input guys.

 

[Spike Strip]

Take pix and let us know how it goes...

Good luck

 

[FJ Jake]

Kem Kromik

This looks like it would work well. Attached is the PDS, designed specifically for going over blasted surfaces. I operate a commercial painting company so I have a bit of insight and resources on this and have wondered what products I will use for my frame during my up and coming frame-off resto of my 84 fj 60. (Still undecided, sometimes too much infomation can be a curse)

PPG's AMERON line also has some options. They use that stuff on ships and oil platforms. I have used the AMERON PSX 700 on some industial steel railings and barriers about 8yrs ago. It has held up really well. The only concern I have with some of these high end topcoats is that the rigidity of the paint can cause it to crack during flexing of the frame. Implement paint works fine, but there are better options out there. Typically a urethane epoxy, usually a two part product will out perform and last longer yet have some flexibility. How much longer.... who knows. All depends on prep, primers, storage, how quickly or often you clean it after exposure to salts or other contaminants.

I just figure that the amount of work that goes into a correctly completed frame resto is worth $100.00+ per gallon paint if you don't want to do it again.

 

[MichiganFJ60]

Kem Kromik

I just figure that the amount of work that goes into a correctly completed frame resto is worth $100.00+ per gallon paint if you don't want to do it again.

Totally agree with you, and I am certainly not interested in cutting any corners - especially as I watch the project hours add up. Are you suggesting that Kem Kromik might be cutting a corner? Or were you referring to the other brand you mentioned? I know very little about paint characteristics and all that, so I appreciate your input and experience.

 

[FJ Jake]

Pimplement Paint

No I think Kem Kromik is a very good candidate for this application. As you are blasting, etc. (Read the PDS attached) I also think that PPG Ameron or amercoat has some equally good products. What I meant was that I think implement paint is OK as most use this on their frame painting. I just think there are better products that you can use ie. Kem Kromik a Sherwin product or some of the Ameron or amerloc products from PPG (Pittsburg Paint).

If you are going to put your typical implement paint from tractor supply/ ACE (This field or area of demand has not called for many changes or research in developing the best products over the years, the formulas have pretty much stayed the same, since we got rid of lead) etc. vs. these specific products desinged to hold up under salt, heat, abrasion, impact resistance, moisture resistance and so on they are going to out perform them all day long.

I guess all in all you get what you pay for is usually very true in the paint world. Of course this is not even getting into the powder coating disscusion, which is a whole other beast. This is for the guys who wants to paint it their self.

 

[ntsqd]

I have some Ameron top coat on a trailer. It had to leave the plant premises because of it's VOC's being too high. Was legal when ordered, but not when delivered. KA strikes again! Anyway, it is a bit brittle and does chip too easily IMHO. Not sure if that it due to the prep and application or is the nature of the paint.

The coatings specialist at the plant strongly emphasized following the prep laid out on the product manual to the letter. Seek clarification before starting if anything doesn't make sense.

 

[MichiganFJ60]

No I think Kem Kromik is a very good candidate for this application. As you are blasting, etc. (Read the PDS attached)

Ok, thanks for the clarification. I thought that's what you were saying, but I wanted to be certain. Yep, read the PDS (thanks for that, by the way), and I'll be picking up a gallon this weekend. Pictures to follow on my FJ60 build thread.

 

[FJ Jake]

Cool, can't wait to see pics! Just one more note, there are a few paints in the Kem Kromik line. The PDS sheet I attached is not the universal line. Just double check b4 you buy.

Good luck!