I just purchased a strick M100 1/4 ton trailer from a government surplus website $285. It appears to be in ok condition in the poor quality photo on the web. Lots or rust, but it looks to be surface only. I'll be picking it up tomorrow and am planning on a full resto. I have an M101A3 already, and am looking for something a little smaller for when I don't need the 1 ton trailer. Any advice regarding resto from someone who has been through this already?
Just Purchased: Strick M100
- Thread starter cary00silve
- Start date
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I have restored 2 M100's from something near that condition. You are in good shape if at least all of the parts are still there (brake parts mostly). Many of the critical smaller parts are out there (bearings/races, wheel nuts, etc). I had a real hard time finding brake parts.
Tubs are also a pain. They were original built them with the thinnest sheet metal they could use which was too thin in my opinion, but served it's purpose. I had a good time doing it (both of them). My first suggestion to you would be this. SANDBLAST everything you can.
I found that tearing it down and then taking all of the parts was better than just blasting it clean as it sits. I knew I was going to replace every nut/bolt/screw on each one so if I had a stripped or frozen nut I just cut them off. Keep in mind also that the tubs were welded to the frame so if you have major rust damage to the sheet metal, it is probably better to remove the tub completely from the frame and the later weld it back on or make tabs like they did later (M416).
There are replica tubs out there (run about $1000 w/o shipping). They are actually MB tubs but they are the same size as the M100. They only have one drain plug and no handles on the corners. i never found anyone that actually made M100 tubs, but there now may be soemone out there that does (anyone chim in here if they know where to get a replica M100 tub please, I have one left to work on that has major damage to the tub).
If you have any specific questions, need a part you cannot find, or need a solution to a problem with your build, shoot me a PM
Tubs are also a pain. They were original built them with the thinnest sheet metal they could use which was too thin in my opinion, but served it's purpose. I had a good time doing it (both of them). My first suggestion to you would be this. SANDBLAST everything you can.
I found that tearing it down and then taking all of the parts was better than just blasting it clean as it sits. I knew I was going to replace every nut/bolt/screw on each one so if I had a stripped or frozen nut I just cut them off. Keep in mind also that the tubs were welded to the frame so if you have major rust damage to the sheet metal, it is probably better to remove the tub completely from the frame and the later weld it back on or make tabs like they did later (M416).
There are replica tubs out there (run about $1000 w/o shipping). They are actually MB tubs but they are the same size as the M100. They only have one drain plug and no handles on the corners. i never found anyone that actually made M100 tubs, but there now may be soemone out there that does (anyone chim in here if they know where to get a replica M100 tub please, I have one left to work on that has major damage to the tub).
If you have any specific questions, need a part you cannot find, or need a solution to a problem with your build, shoot me a PM
The M100's are great trailers. Mine was in alot worse shape and came out just fine. I thought the steel was pretty thick and allowed me to weld bullet holes and pound out the dents easily.
With spring over lift that I recently took back out. Now it works with the wife's FJ Cruiser.
If you have the funds, take it to a sandblaster to have it stripped. Do not buy a HF sandblaster and try to do it yourself. I spent more on paint stripper and sand trying to do it myself. If you have any questions feel free to contact me.
With spring over lift that I recently took back out. Now it works with the wife's FJ Cruiser.
If you have the funds, take it to a sandblaster to have it stripped. Do not buy a HF sandblaster and try to do it yourself. I spent more on paint stripper and sand trying to do it myself. If you have any questions feel free to contact me.
ntsqd
technerd
Better for this sort of thing, thin sheet metal, is to have it media blasted. Some use baking soda, others use plastic bits or crushed walnut shells. All of these options result in less heat in the metal. Sand in the hands of someone careless can get the metal hot enough to warp it. Not that it matters as much in a trailer, but sand also has the tendency to get into the nooks and crannies of car & truck bodies. Most that I know who've had a body blasted with sand wish that they'd never done it as sand comes out in the turbulent air every time they drive the vehicle.
Media blasting is the preferred method of hot rod builders. If you have "Drive!" magazine in your area you can probably find a media blaster at least semi-local to you.
Media blasting is the preferred method of hot rod builders. If you have "Drive!" magazine in your area you can probably find a media blaster at least semi-local to you.
Sandblast, line-x, rattle can in your favorite flavor rustoleum... use, abuse, repeat. 
- Thread starter
- #7
Thanks for all of the great responses. I got the trailer home and assessed the damage. The floor has some rot on the front half. I think my plan is to cut out the entire floor and weld some 11ga diamond plate the to frame the set the old tub back on and weld to the frame. For some reason, the USDA decided to cut the front panel completely out of the trailer (no data plate, so no SN or yr of manufacture), so I am going to have to try my hand at welding sheet metal for the first time!
So far, I have completely disassembled the bolted parts of the trailer. I didn't sandblast or media blast as I don't have the proper equipment, and didn't want to pay someone. I instead have been using my angle grinder with a whire cup and a whire wheel to remove the rust and old paint. Everything has been cleaned and primed with the exception of the tub and frame. I repacked the wheel bearings (which were in excellent shape) and replaced the hub seal. The brakes appear to work fine, although the cable was frozen and there is no handle. I found some M416 handles on the cheap which I plan to moun to the front of the trailer and have one for each wheel (similar to the M101AX trailers).
I have saved the hardest work for last, and must remove the tub from the frame, cut the floor out of the tub (as I think it is beyond repair), repair a crack in the frame near the shock mount, and weld in a diamond plate floor. I plan to leave about 1in of the tub floor around the perimeter so I can "set" the tub on top of the diamond plate floor and fully weld the two together. I am definitely open to suggestions on this topic as I'm not sure if this is the best course of action.
I have a question regarding wheels and inner tubes. This trailer has the original wheels which have the center section bolted to the rim. I purchased some 215/85/16 radials second hand as the repro bias plys are $$$. Do I need to run a tube with these wheels, or will they hold air with a tubeless tire?
So far, I have completely disassembled the bolted parts of the trailer. I didn't sandblast or media blast as I don't have the proper equipment, and didn't want to pay someone. I instead have been using my angle grinder with a whire cup and a whire wheel to remove the rust and old paint. Everything has been cleaned and primed with the exception of the tub and frame. I repacked the wheel bearings (which were in excellent shape) and replaced the hub seal. The brakes appear to work fine, although the cable was frozen and there is no handle. I found some M416 handles on the cheap which I plan to moun to the front of the trailer and have one for each wheel (similar to the M101AX trailers).
I have saved the hardest work for last, and must remove the tub from the frame, cut the floor out of the tub (as I think it is beyond repair), repair a crack in the frame near the shock mount, and weld in a diamond plate floor. I plan to leave about 1in of the tub floor around the perimeter so I can "set" the tub on top of the diamond plate floor and fully weld the two together. I am definitely open to suggestions on this topic as I'm not sure if this is the best course of action.
I have a question regarding wheels and inner tubes. This trailer has the original wheels which have the center section bolted to the rim. I purchased some 215/85/16 radials second hand as the repro bias plys are $$$. Do I need to run a tube with these wheels, or will they hold air with a tubeless tire?
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Keep in mind about cutting the floor out, I made this mistake, make sure your tub is square when you weld the floor back on! I had the same issues you have with the floor. I cut the bottom out and replaced and could not get it mounted back up without being off about and inch in the back on one side and the same in the front on the other side. Just piss poor planning and rushing things on my part. Mistakes like this, $$$, add up. Good luck bud! 
Nice job on the resto M100