Just ordered 4 new shocks....what tools do I need?

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Joined
Sep 18, 2016
Threads
43
Messages
470
Location
Louisiana
i just ordered 4 new shocks for my 05. From what I've read I need a 22mm wrench. I am about to order one but I want to make sure I get it right. From what I can see I may need a flex head wrench or a straight wrench with no bend.

Can anyone confirm the best one to use and it's size?

Thanks.
 
Size should be correct...still, if I could get a caliper up there I'd double check. GearWrench with a flex head works.
 
This is for the top of the rear shocks, right? I think 22mm was the size I used. Mine was a standard combinationwrench but if I had a ratcheting version it would have gone faster. Also, I took off my shocks by holding the old one still with a big channel locks, but for install it would have been nice to have a strap wrench to hold it still. I followed someone's advice here and removed the spare tire and drove the rear up onto my car ramps - made everything sooo much easier to work under there, I could sit up.
 
Yea I just did mine .. 22 mm flex head ratcheting wrench was perfect I think the bottoms are 19 mm but may be 17 and no big deal. My shocks on my 01 were stock and a little difficult to break the top nut loose I used a pipe wrench to hold the shock from turning as my strap wrench kept slipping , I left the spare where it is. The install went well as the new shocks had a place for a open end wrench to keep them from turning. After reading horror stories and people cutting holes in the floor on the rear shocks I was prepared for the worse but it really wasn't a big deal at all , having a rust free truck helped I'm sure. A little Pb blaster before hand is always a good idea
 
Last edited:
Sawzall maybe if top 22's are rusty. The sawzall method literally took me about 30 seconds each shock. Took longer to get the spare tire out of the way
 
Sawzall maybe if top 22's are rusty. The sawzall method literally took me about 30 seconds each shock. Took longer to get the spare tire out of the way

If there is no reason to save the old shocks, I would cut them, even if it is not rusty. So much easier.
 
i just ordered 4 new shocks for my 05. From what I've read I need a 22mm wrench. I am about to order one but I want to make sure I get it right. From what I can see I may need a flex head wrench or a straight wrench with no bend.

Can anyone confirm the best one to use and it's size?

Thanks.
Assuming you have OEM shocks on there now, that is correct, the OEM's are 22mm on top, front and rear. Other brands are all over the map, 19mm (Fox), 21mm (Ironman), etc. Can't remember what OME are, and never had Bilsteins.
 
Assuming you have OEM shocks on there now, that is correct, the OEM's are 22mm on top, front and rear. Other brands are all over the map, 19mm (Fox), 21mm (Ironman), etc. Can't remember what OME are, and never had Bilsteins.

Yep, OEM on there. Pretty sure they're original with 300k plus miles on them. It's my wife's vehicle so I'm sticking with OEM.

I have Bilsteins 5100s that have been sitting in my shop for months now waiting to be installed on my 3rd gen 4runner. Having trouble deciding what from springs to go with.

Thanks for the responses. I have flex head gear wrenches but not in 22mm. Looks like I'll be ordering this.
 
Tire out, pb blast, 22mm ratchet wrench, a buddy to hold the vice grip chain strap wrench and then the sawzall if all else fail and the nut is still frozen on.
 
10 Minute Rear Shock Install

I like to know everything about a project so hope this will help. I tried taking mine off first with a 22mm flex head gear wrench as mentioned previously but rust was an issue. The 2 1/2 drilled holes can be plugged with the cab mount that is in between the two drilled holes. I ordered one and used a 2 1/2 computer plug with a hole in it from ace hardware that I can run wires to the rear.

I also replaced all shock hardware as mine was rusted pretty bad. I would not recommend this unless these were bad as I received quite the sticker shock on that hardware.

I also drilled some small holes in the "pocket" by where the rear shock mounts into the frame so dirt, salt and debris did not collect there. This is where my 3rd gen 4runner failed from rust.

Your 3rd gen 4 runner is very similar rear shock setup to the 100.

I also use blue locktite on all suspension bolts (brake calipers too)
 
Last edited:
Can any or all of the shocks be replaced without pulling a wheel? I got the shocks and crawled under the truck to see if I had room.

Looks like enough room to work with the spare pulled out of the way. I just don't like to be under the truck when it's on jack stands.
 
Can any or all of the shocks be replaced without pulling a wheel? I got the shocks and crawled under the truck to see if I had room.

Looks like enough room to work with the spare pulled out of the way. I just don't like to be under the truck when it's on jack stands.

Both rear shocks can be replaced without pulling the rear wheels. I did jack up mine to give me extra room to work, but the wheels stayed on. You need to remove the wheels to replace front shocks.
 
Can any or all of the shocks be replaced without pulling a wheel? I got the shocks and crawled under the truck to see if I had room.

Looks like enough room to work with the spare pulled out of the way. I just don't like to be under the truck when it's on jack stands.
Theoretically, I guess so. It's easier with them off. Get some 12 ton jack stands to use, and you won't worry about being under it.
 
The job is simple in the absence of any corrosion, in my case it got violent.

Sawzall maybe if top 22's are rusty. The sawzall method literally took me about 30 seconds each shock. Took longer to get the spare tire out of the way

2nd the sawzall method, but wear safety glasses, the trip to the eye doctor was the most costly and time consuming part.

My fronts would not hold still against rotation so I welded a chunk of trash on the side of one of them to keep it from spinning.
 
Can any or all of the shocks be replaced without pulling a wheel? I got the shocks and crawled under the truck to see if I had room.

Looks like enough room to work with the spare pulled out of the way. I just don't like to be under the truck when it's on jack stands.

Correct, the rear shocks top bolt can be loosened or cut out with the spare removed, from over the rear axle. Fronts are wheels off but no need to crawl under.
 
I'll be doing this job tomorrow most likely. I don't think a sawzall will be necessary. I've been under the truck a couple of times and there's virtually no rust. It's been in South Louisiana all of its life. We don't put salt on roads here. I'll spray some pb blaster and that should be fine.
 
Hopefully this makes the job easier. Tekton brand, which I had never heard of, has great reviews all over Amazon.

image.jpg
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom