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If you look at the side of your tires you will see that the max for those Michelins is 35lbs. No one should advise you to put more than 35 in them. I always run more in mine since I also like a firmer ride but I do not recomend over filling. Stop at 35lbs:cheers:
 
It is best to check the sidewalls of the LTX tires, while most are rated at 35 psi some are rated at 44 psi, such as mine. I ran the original tires (35 max) at 35 psi. On my new tires I have run between 30 and 40 and lately have been running between 35 to 37. They seemed too soft at 30 and 32. I will likely move up toward 40 to see how that works.

Even on tires with a max 35, they can handle more without adverse impact - usually perform better with several psi over. That info came out during the Firestone/Explorer controversy.
 
Even on tires with a max 35, they can handle more without adverse impact - usually perform better with several psi over. That info came out during the Firestone/Explorer controversy.

One of the key components of the Firestone/Explorer controversy was that the door label had a significantly different pressure than the sidewall. They said it was based on vehicle engineering. In the long run we now have VSC.

However I found with my Jeep too on BFG A/Ts I had to experiment with the right pressures to get even wear and the right ride. I recommend you try different pressures for a few days at a time and feel the difference. Keep in mind that the temperature can mean the difference of several pounds.
 
I would recommend calling Michelin directly and ask them to calculate a proper pressure from the actual tire load tables and vehicle data.

Call Michelin directly at 1-866-866-6605. Our expert staff will be glad to help you find the right tire for your vehicle and driving needs.

The load tables vary more than you would think for tires of the same size/ratings and unfortunately most tire shops don't even use them.

I am a believer in road-force balancing from personal experience, especially for brand new tires. If a tire will balance but has other problems the tire shop will always point to other parts of the car as the source of the problem. In some cases the road-force balance will ID a bad tire before you waste a lot of money replacing good steering and front end components.

The truck was fine and then you put on new tires. Now you have problems. Indicates tires may be the problem to me.
 
2x road force balancing. My new Michelin tires were never right until I had this done. Well worth the added cost!
 
i find my LX to be very susceptible to road slant, i.e. roads that slope to the L or R for drainage. i thought there was something wrong with it initially, but even while driving the little prius in the carpool lane out here in CA that usually slopes to the L some correction is required. when on a perfectly flat piece of road (hard to come by around here) it'll track straight for 10 seconds or more. lex dealers said that as long as it tracks straight for 5 seconds on flat road, it's up to lex standards. my guess is that it's just a really big heavy truck that is affected quite a bit by gravity.

as for the harshness. can't comment.

good luck.

jp
 
Thank you for the information, I am still not convinced the alignment was completed successfully. Going to ask them to check the alignment again. Not just the drifting but it feels like something is loose in the suspension, too cold right now to climb underneath for a good inspection.

Thanks for all the help and advice. Good stuff!!
 
Decided to take the LC to another dealer to have the tires road force balanced and the alignment checked again. All is fixed now. Alignment was way off, so they brought it back to spec. I am wondering if the first dealer even did an alignment when I had the tires installed. I am going to contact the first dealer tomorrow and ask for a copy of the alignment spec sheet, I assume one does not exist. Looks like I need a refund.
 
Decided to take the LC to another dealer to have the tires road force balanced and the alignment checked again. All is fixed now. Alignment was way off, so they brought it back to spec. I am wondering if the first dealer even did an alignment when I had the tires installed. I am going to contact the first dealer tomorrow and ask for a copy of the alignment spec sheet, I assume one does not exist. Looks like I need a refund.

Their alignment machine could be way out of calibration or something. One time I had big-O tires do an alignment on my 4runner after adding the OME lift. Took them 2 attempts to even get the vehicle to track straight (it was tracking straight before they touched it, just the camber was way off from cranking the t-bars). Once I hit the first freeway overpass seam at 70mph, the vehicle lurched violently, then I had to keep the wheel turned 45 degrees to keep the rig straight. Nearly killed me, and no TRAC back in '86! Anyways, Toyota dealer did it and it drives perfectly. Still in spec years later. Turns out, the guy at Big-O tires didn't torque the caster bolt enough (just used an impact wrench) and it popped loose when I hit the overpass. Once you find one dealer/tech that does a perfect alignment, use them all the time!
 
Folks,

After working in Detroit for a suspension company, I have some idea about tire pressure issue. The upper limit of tire pressure is bound by your axles' GVWR. That is, you can have a higher pressure if the vehicle runs empty. However, when it is fully loaded with trailer behind you, for instance, your tire should be inflated to vehicle OEM specified pressure. Otherwise, internal tire pressure will exceed the design limit and you may have a blowout. The pressure listed on the side wall of tire is slightly misleading since tire manufacture does not know ahead of time which vehicle the tires would be installed (especially after market tires) So in summary, if you want, you could bump up the tire pressure above specified level on the empty vehicle, but please do lower the pressure when it's loaded.
 

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