Just got a 100, trying to diagnose the issue

[arcteryx]

It's official, I am now a 2004 100 series owner with 167K on it. It will be the family/trip/tow vehicle. It's loaded but needs a little TLC. Mods to come, Mrs. CY has given her thumbs up for a front bumper to start- gotta watch out for the deer here in TX.

Now, I have searched quite a bit but haven't come up with a solution to my problem.

The main issue is that it's throwing multiple misfire codes, 7 of them between p0300-p0308. I managed to swap around some coil packs with some extra I had to get it where the cylinders are not firing individual codes, but still throws a p0300. It runs rough at idle, CEL, vsc trac, and vsc off lights. No other codes are thrown.

I am going to do a dry/wet compression test tomorrow and see what those are. Supposedly, the PO took it to 2 shops- not toyota shops AFAIK- and said the engine was gone, bad compression on 2 cylinders. But I am skeptical about this as 1) I don't trust the other 2 shops,, 2) there isn't a knock, and 3) in general, these engines go 300-400K easily with proper PM, which from maintenance history it appears to have had. I have a spare engine I can swap out, but my fear is that it isn't mechanical and the issue would still persist.

The PO did mention something about getting the fuel system fixed recently. I don't know what that means or what was done. Perhaps I should drain the tank and put fresh fuel in? It has sat for at least the last 2-3 months, but was running/driving in Spring.

So, I am in a quagmire on what to do next, which is where you come in. Open to suggestions.

 

[bctlex]

I just got my LC a few months ago. From the stack of receipt that come with the vehicle, PO took it to a shop last yr. The receipt show that the car was running rough with CEL lights on. The shop manage to figure out which coil pack that was bad, and replace that one, plus also replaced all spark plugs.

Not sure if this is the same problem as yours, but assuming all of the coils are good, I would start with new spark plugs since they are cheap and easy. Also check each wires and connectors to the coils incase one of them are worn out. Hope this helps.

 

[RND1]

Sounds like you're on the right track. Start w a compression test to confirm motor's good. Once satisfied do a basic tune up - air, oil, spark. If you suspect bad fuel, try a can of dry gas before draining the entire tank - may just be some water in the fuel. Keep us posted.

 

[SWUtah]

At that mileage I would throw on a new gas cap. That will throw a code, not sealing. Also general tune up. Then baseline all fluids and filters. I did a new fuel filter at 120k just for s***s and grins.

 

[aljollano]

Congrats on your purchased Jason.
I would check for vacuum leaks, and low fuel pressure.

A.J

 

[arcteryx]

Thanks for the help. I have been talking to @ginericLC too offline, he's given me some good pointers.

I am going to do the following today

• test the MAF
• change the plugs and do a compression test and possibly leakdown test
• check for any vacuum leaks
• possibly remove the TB cover and ensure the belt is good
• drain gas tank and put in some premium. It's a shame because there is about 3/4 of a tank

If none of the above reveal anything, I will take it to a good shop where they can test the fuel pressure and injectors. They have the proper tools for that

 

[arcteryx]

Update. Compression #'s below. I think I found the problem.

1- 180
3- 181
5- 185
7- 185

2- 196
4- 205 - a bit funky outside of plug. Harder to remove and replace. Sticky threads
6- 0, yes zero. Similar to above, sticky thread and harder to RnR
8- 205

I am thinking a valve is stuck open on #6 which is why it has no compression. I have done a decent # of compression tests and have never seen 0 before. Even dead cylinders register at least something- 40, 60, 75. I really hope it's the head, certainly much easier than a swap.

I need to remove the head to see what is going on. I have an 2002 FSM as well as the 2004 PDF. I am a newbie to these engine, so if someone has done it before, I'd appreciate any input. On a side note, my TB kit arrived today

 

[Slickspawn]

can you do a leakdown test and find where it's leaking? that'd tell you piston rings or valves...either way you're taking it apart of course.

 

[arcteryx]

I removed the valve cover to see if I could see anything. I took a video to show the problem. The #6 front/right (depending how you look at it) exhaust valve is stuck in down/open position. When the camshaft lobe moves over the left one or any others, the valve is pushed up/closed.

Now for the $$$ question- are there are tricks on how can I unstick this valve without removing the head?

The video shows #6 on top at the beginning with #4 on the bottom, and shows it working correctly. I then panned up and got both sides of#6.


PS- I am working on embedding it, but for now just click the link

Picasa Web Albums - CruiserYard - repair

 

[Bomar]

I would soak in Kroil and see if it will let loose.

 

[lx470cinci]

On an Eagle Talon Tsi AWD I used to have I changed the valve stem seals with the head on. Pull all the spark plugs. Make sure #6 is at Bottom Dead Center (or close to it) just before the compression stroke. Feed in a nylon rope through the spark plug hole. With tranny in neutral, put a breaker bar or wrench on the crankshaft pulley bolt. Rotate the crankshaft to push the piston up. The rope will compress to the top and hold all the valves up against the head. You can now remove cams and valve springs on the suspect valve without the valve dropping into the head.
Cheers,
Greg

 

[arcteryx]

Update- I took it to an excellent indy shop many of us Austinites have used to let them confirm. I had them scope it to confirm the piston was good, which it was. After talking to Mrs CY, we decided to let them do the labor and I would supply parts.

They removed the head today. Turns out the valve is fine, the valve guide was rusty and caused the valve to stick. So no head work needed! They will replace the guide and put it back on. I am having them put in a new denso starter and do the timing belt, since it's all open and the TB is due within 15K.

Really excited that I went from an engine replacement to redoing the head to a valve guide. Thanks @powderpig and @ginericLC for the tech support. Guess I need to sell this 2UZ engine I bought

 

[Junglejack]

That is awesome it turned out to be relatively minor. Guessing you got an amazing deal with the PO thinking the engine was most likely toast. Like the user name and the brand greatly. Have also been really digging Westcomb as well.

 

[duggy]

Congrats on finding that fix. How did the valve guide get rusted? Did the Cruiser come from Houston? Possible flood?

 

[arcteryx]

No it didn't come from Houston and isn't a flood car.

I asked the mechanic and he said it must have sat for awhile. I know it sat for a 4-5 months. Perhaps water in the fuel? I really don't know. The rest of it looked good inside he said, just that one valve.

 

[bucfl]

Sweet!

 

[jclarke450]

very strange, but cool it was such an easy fix. I can tell you as I am just now getting my 2000 back together that doing the whole top end on these is a pain. Long and tedious. not difficult but time consuming and I hope to never do it again!

 

[arcteryx]

yea, perhaps it got some moist air in there when it was open? all speculation, I don't know for sure. All I do know is that it will be done properly.

have fun with your build, that is one reason why I decided to let the shop do it. I would have taken too long probably

 

[arcteryx]

Just got back from the mechanic. @jclarke450 Just to make you feel bad, it will be done today. They basically knocked it out in 2 days. That's how good these guys are, and how bad we can be

 

[ponytl]

chances are you could have broke it free from the top just by forcing it down a bit more a couple times... I deal with many engines that have sat for sometimes YEARS and it is pretty common to have a "stuck valve"... most I get to run fine with just breaking the valves free...