Just changed the AHC fluid and...

[arbetrader]

WOW, ok... Let me explain...

I did the ahc flush last year and followed LexusBen's guidelines: https://forum.ih8mud.com/100-series-cruisers/60619-changing-out-ahc-suspension-fluid.html - Thanks Ben, very handy instructions!

But the issue is that I only had 1 can and when I got to the final corner, I didn't have enough AHC fluid to finish the job, so I only was able to do the 3 sides. I also noticed the reservoir was a bit lower than I was comfortable with especially in high mode or while equalizing if I have a load in the truck as I tow now and again.

Anyway, this time, I did exactly the same procedure, except I started the vehicle in HIGH mode (as opposed to just normal mode) for each corner and draining all old fluid out from there for each corner. Then, for each corner when it was stabilizing, it would go back up to high mode, and I did this procedure on the remaining 3 corners (obviously making sure I had enough fluid in the reservoir the whole time.

I do feel a slightly smoother ride (over harsh road imperfections and such). Not only that, I filled a little extra fluid in the reservoir at the end to make sure there would always be enough under load (a little about the high mark.) Make sure you don't put too much in though because when lowering suspension, you will have fluid everwhere!

Anyway, just thought I'd post this and mention I used 1.5 cans in total and I think I got almost all of the old fluid out this time.

One thing I noticed is that the rear sides both take a lot more fluid than the front ones do. Interesting.

 

[agaisin]

1) To confirm your observation, rear accumulators have more volume than the front as uHu has pointed out here: https://forum.ih8mud.com/100-series...mulator-replacement-mcmaster.html#post6185728

2) As far as your concern about reservoir level while in High, iirc you should just be concerned with the level at Normal where it should be full. In Low it will go above, and in High it will go below and that is normal. While you're at it, you might as well do the reservoir level check described in the FSM to make sure you are getting at least 7 gradations different between High and Low.

3) instead of starting in High and draining majority of old fluid out of each accumulator (more work), I think most people start in Low and then drain as much as possible with a turkey baster or fluid pump out of the reservoir and then follow typical flush instructions from there.

Here's the instructions I used way back and found it to be very helpful:
AHC flush - simple and safe - Club Lexus Forums

 

[lexi4darin]

1)
3) instead of starting in High and draining majority of old fluid out of each accumulator (more work), I think most people start in Low and then drain as much as possible with a turkey baster or fluid pump out of the reservoir and then follow typical flush instructions from there.

Well, that's really the case. Low is better as it forces more fluid into the reservoir. However after the res fluid is changed out for fresh new AHC fluid, I think moving to high isn't a bad idea.

And I used at least 2 full cans when I did my flush. And I'm doing another flush after 6 months of use to ensure I get all the fluid done.

 

[arbetrader]

3) instead of starting in High and draining majority of old fluid out of each accumulator (more work), I think most people start in Low and then drain as much as possible with a turkey baster or fluid pump out of the reservoir and then follow typical flush instructions from there.

Yes, I made sure to start in LOW mode first so as to make sure I got all the old fluid out. This was a much more complete fluid swap than the last one I did, as after I refilled with clean fluid, I put it in high mode, then did the fluid change from there on all 4 corners, RATHER than starting from neutral mode such that the instructions I had from LexusBen in the earlier thread.

 

[Wcruiserjunkie]

ok i followed all the instructions and had one can instructions came from club lexus, very nice detail BTW. truck rides much better and it was a 30 minute procedure. i used a speed reverse bleeder to get the resevoir empty, got it at summit for brake bleeding, handy tool, tube goes in brake fluid can, nipple attaches to the brake xerk and you push all the fluid up to the master reservoir. i just reversed it for this and put the tube into the AHC reservoir, and pumped the pistol grip as it sucked all the fluid into a container...but i digress...

i have a slight problem though and i need clarification....

i tried to do the accumulator first, as detailed, and the zerk nipple was frozen, and without even much torque....

YES IT BROKE RIGHT OFF FLUSH....so i am very lucky that it is still sealed and i know i can replace it but have to take off the accumulator etc etc. could not bleed the accumulator at all.


i went ahead and did all four other spots and by direction got a lot of nasty brown oil out, none of it was red like toyota fluid from dealership. it had a different smell but my suspension seemed ok just finicky, if you get that...

question is this, is the system designed to circulate fluid? or does the fluid in accumulator just stay there for the most part, or will i have to start all over with 2 cans after i get the zerk replaced??? i may have to anyway as i do not see much chance in pulling the accumulator without fluid going everywhere.

and second ? is this, should i be concerned that the old fluid looked so different from the red official toyota??

much thanks if anyone happens to see this. W