JL Audio 10TW3-D4 "Thin Mount" Subs...?

[GregLCA]

I've been reading the archives here and haven't noticed anyone trying something like this yet?

http://www.crutchfield.com/p_13610TW3/JL-Audio-10TW3-D4.html


I've seen quite a few guys try to put conventionally deep subwoofer frames into the stock plastic enclosure, and usually end up with a tall spacer ring....

This one is only 3.25" deep (to the mounting flange)...and only needs about 0.6 cu ft of box volume. Seems like it might be a truly "stealth" option for guys who want to hide a much higher quality sub behind the factory grille??


-G

 

[El Cid]

Not sure what the weight of the sub is, but that was the biggest challenge for me.

 

[GregLCA]

Not sure what the weight of the sub is, but that was the biggest challenge for me.

JL's website show the weight at 10.1Lbs....

The nice thing about this sub is that the biggest mass isn't hanging way off the back of the mounting flange, like it does with their normally VERY DEEP frame designs. There should be a lot less leverage against the mounting flange (torsionally) so even though it weighs a lot, most of that weight is being supported in the vertical axis.

-G

 

[El Cid]

Not sure how heavy that is compared to your current sub, but honestly, there's no downside in trying. Crutchfield is cool about returns, these are products meant to be customized. Those JL's are good, even if it doesn't work, there are options to put it in some other type of enclosure.

The other option is to move it all the way back to the location of the jack. I had flirted with the idea of splitting and putting one sub in the factory enclosure and moving one to a custom built box where the jack sat.

Get the subwoofer in hand before you take out the plastic and just get a feel for how it might look installed. Forget trying to modify the wheel well plastic too much, it's tough plastic.

 

[GregLCA]

Not sure how heavy that is compared to your current sub, but honestly, there's no downside in trying. Crutchfield is cool about returns, these are products meant to be customized. Those JL's are good, even if it doesn't work, there are options to put it in some other type of enclosure.

The other option is to move it all the way back to the location of the jack. I had flirted with the idea of splitting and putting one sub in the factory enclosure and moving one to a custom built box where the jack sat.

Get the subwoofer in hand before you take out the plastic and just get a feel for how it might look installed. Forget trying to modify the wheel well plastic too much, it's tough plastic.

Has anyone ever considered putting the subs in the ceiling area close to the rear hatch hinges?

It would be goofy with most subwoofers due to their depth.... but with these "slim" JLs there might be a way to build an enclosure that was only, say 4" deep, and the full width of that upper hatch area (maybe 30"?).... seems like with that much space it would be easy to hit the enclosure volume recommendations. Being that it's a sealed box speaker, the construction would be pretty straightforward too.

Structurally, you ARE hanging about 20Lbs worth of Subs overhead, but there has got to be some good reinforcement structure in those rear C-pillars to work from. With a simple steel crossmember running across that span, holding the weight safely would be a non-issue.....

I tend to be pretty fearless when it comes to metalworking, welding, etc. Maybe it's just too far over the top, but being able to save valuable storage space (width wise) seems pretty important to the overlanding guys who have already built custom drawer setups, etc.


-G

 

[El Cid]

Has anyone ever considered putting the subs in the ceiling area close to the rear hatch hinges?

It would be goofy with most subwoofers due to their depth.... but with these "slim" JLs there might be a way to build an enclosure that was only, say 4" deep, and the full width of that upper hatch area (maybe 30"?).... seems like with that much space it would be easy to hit the enclosure volume recommendations. Being that it's a sealed box speaker, the construction would be pretty straightforward too.

Structurally, you ARE hanging about 20Lbs worth of Subs overhead, but there has got to be some good reinforcement structure in those rear C-pillars to work from. With a simple steel crossmember running across that span, holding the weight safely would be a non-issue.....
-G

nothing wrong with that idea at all, IMO, you're thinking about putting subs on that crossbar much like they do for jeeps. I think it would work, it's all a matter of how it's accomplished.

Btw, you can easily find the mesh fabric, grating and foam. That will cover a multitude of sins to get you back to a factory look..

 

[GregLCA]

nothing wrong with that idea at all, IMO, you're thinking about putting subs on that crossbar much like they do for jeeps. I think it would work, it's all a matter of how it's accomplished.

Btw, you can easily find the mesh fabric, grating and foam. That will cover a multitude of sins to get you back to a factory look..

Yeah.... I took another look at the interior over lunchtime. Not as much space up there as I'd remembered. It could still be done, but it will probably hang down below the level of the hatch considerably, and might even interfere with sight-lines out the rear glass (through the rear view mirror).

Think I'll "backburner" this idea for a while and dig deeper into the archives to look at successful installs....


-G

 

[El Cid]

Yep, it's all a function of materials and craftsmanship. I wanted a certain look, but the design of the sides just won't allow for two heavy subs.
Now the plan is to move them further back behind the 3rd row and figure out how to disguise them.
There is nothing that beats just getting the subs and moving them around the vehicle to get a mental picture of how it might fit..

 

[Newps]

You could put them in the rear tailgate under the carpet. You would have to build some sort of metal screen or support to protect them.

 

[GregLCA]

You could put them in the rear tailgate under the carpet. You would have to build some sort of metal screen or support to protect them.

That's a really cool idea!

The space is the right depth and overall displacement for a couple of 10's (or 12's).

Building a beefy speaker grille wouldn't be that hard.... the only concern would be the hatch struts. Might need to go up a size (or double up on them per side) to compensate for the extra 20 - 30Lbs of weight.


Interesting suggestion.


-G

 

[Newps]

Tailgate has no struts it's a torsion bar inside the tailgate. No need to do anything to it, people already use this area as a storage area for recovery equipment.

 

[GregLCA]

Tailgate has no struts it's a torsion bar inside the tailgate. No need to do anything to it, people already use this area as a storage area for recovery equipment.

Very cool.

Is there a removable panel behind that carpeted tailgate, or is that just one big stamped steel piece? It's not a big deal....I own an airsaw, and could easily mark and cut out the holes. Just curious how modular that area is from the factory.

-G

 

[El Cid]

Very cool.

Is there a removable panel behind that carpeted tailgate, or is that just one big stamped steel piece? It's not a big deal....I own an airsaw, and could easily mark and cut out the holes. Just curious how modular that area is from the factory.

-G

If you're going to go that route, and I think it's an interesting and certainly workable idea, then I would suggest building an enclosure that you essentially mount to the tailgate. Making it removable. IMO, there isn't enough space in the tailgate to make it serve as an adequate enclosure. Plus, you'll occasionally be slamming that tailgate. Meaning it will need to be brutally secured.
You guys are moving faster than I but I can send you photos of the minimum wiring you'll need to change and then you can simply run the harness to the back and drop in the wires. You could build a frame onto the tailgate to mount an enclosure and secure it to that...Would work fine..

 

[Newps]

https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/wagongear-100-series-tailgate-lid-install.487533/#post-6666099

Check out this thread there are a bunch of photos of the tailgate with the carpet removed. Including cutting out the sheet metal for storage access.