Jerry Can - Weld or scrap?

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On my most recent the jerry can got a bit “displaced” in the trailer and hit some bolts. I got a small hole, some prominent scratch marks.
It’s a Wavian, so ~100$.

Have someone weld it or throw it away?

IMG_8216.webp
 
definitely not throw away IMO! If you don't want to fix it (I would), you could turn it into something neat like a hidden toolbox for your truck, or storage of some sort (I store chains in old leaky plastic gas cans).
As to fixing it, it would be easy for a pro, I imagine. Metal looks good. Might be cheap or not depending on where you are, though. Probably not cheap in the Bay area. Don't know what they would charge there. But $30-50 in most "normal" places maybe (wild guess)? Would take all of 5 minutes with a TIG I assume, if you strip it beforehand. But you could also have some fun if you have access to a welder. Or you could maybe even braze it easily enough with a torch. Just aerate well before, obviously.
You could also fix it with JBWeld etc and use for something less potentially problematic than gas, like waste oil or water etc.
 
One product I've used to repair various things is 3M Marine Grade Adhesive. The stuff is absolutely bomproof when fully cured ( takes 1 week + to cure) and seems resistant to everything. I am not sure if it is fuel safe, but if that stuff can't fix it - It probably can't be fixed.

marine.webp
 
Oh man! Seen so often and didn't think about it! Yeah, tool box or similar would be a good idea!

In regards of welding vs. sealing:
I will try to find a local welder, perhaps a neighbor is welding or so...
Sealing with whatever will not be my choice. I got two plastic jerry cans for water, so I don't need another one.

And for gas sealing is not my preferred way.
The 3M product mentioned, being a polyurethane curing by humidity already gives a kind of proof: it can't be really tight! Humidity curing materials cure from the outside to the inside, so this also includes your go to home silicone. Means in order to cure into depth the humidity still needs to travel through the already cured layers on the outside and therefore it can't be really tight. Once it's in the network it could possibly condensed in surface near layers and then pop off during temp cycling. Why those things typically work is because the polymer network is being "crowded" and humidity can't travel further. But the material itself is not tight.
Water in your bathroom can easily evaporate, but oil based stuff can't. So it would stay in there. and in addition this would be a very unpleasant shape to seal as it's always exposed to external impacts and might chip off.
(Disclaimer: I'm from the adhesive industry :-))

Summary:
welding generally would be the choice, if priced reasonably.
If not I make something out of it :)
 
Fix it somehow if you have other uses for it, but I would not use it for fuel anymore.
Most steel fuel cans (Wavian included) have a “lining” inside to prevent corrosion.
The lining on yours is certainly disrupted now. You don’t want bits of it, nor the corrosion that will be forming soon, to enter your fuel system.
Just my thoughts…
 
^ It is certainly true that there may be loose bits of lining or rust in cans. Seen plenty. And that would also be exacerbated with welding or brazing. However, not a significant problem really if you use a filter funnel (I always do). A can can also be relined easily enough too.
Having said all that, if money is no object, get a new one, retire this one and make something fun out of it (if time is no object either)...
 
I am not a real fan of metal jerry cans. I am generally old school guy on just about everything. But good milspec plastic fuel cans have been out there since the early 90s... if not longer. So I guess I can kinda sorta call them old(ish) school now. ;) And I absolutely swear by those Scepter cans. Of course they can be a PITA to get ahold of now thanks to Kalifornia. :(

But I am also a cheapskate sometimes. So... That damage should be just a few bucks for any welder to repair for you.

I wish I knew guys actually want to make things out of battered old gas cans. I have taken about 4 dozen of them to the scrap yard over the last few years when I got tired of them taking up room for no reason

Mark...
 
I was looking at my main generator gas can a couple of days ago. NATO. British. 1952. 72 years old. Good as new. (Replaced the gasket for the first time recently, but didn't really need to.) Never leaked. Can be left in the sun. Doesn't smell. My plastic gas cans usually conk out -crack- after a few years, 10 maybe 15. Scepter probably longer. But likely not 70 years.
 
All of the fuel cans like that which I own are lined with somethingand are not bare steel inside. So after welding I suspect that you're going to have loosened lining in the heated area. I'd look into one of the fuel tank lining products. Caswell's in particular comes highly recommend by one guy that I know and another uses U. S. Standard exclusively (POR-15 product - I don't think it's a Moisture Curing Polyurethane like their other coatings).
 
I am not a real fan of metal jerry cans. I am generally old school guy on just about everything. But good milspec plastic fuel cans have been out there since the early 90s... if not longer. So I guess I can kinda sorta call them old(ish) school now. ;) And I absolutely swear by those Scepter cans. Of course they can be a PITA to get ahold of now thanks to Kalifornia. :(

But I am also a cheapskate sometimes. So... That damage should be just a few bucks for any welder to repair for you.

I wish I knew guys actually want to make things out of battered old gas cans. I have taken about 4 dozen of them to the scrap yard over the last few years when I got tired of them taking up room for no reason

Mark...
+1. I had two wavian cans and they rusted like crazy within about six months. I trashed them and went with the Scepter plastic cans. No issues in almost a year and a half.
 
+1. I had two wavian cans and they rusted like crazy within about six months. I trashed them and went with the Scepter plastic cans. No issues in almost a year and a half.
I've been running the Scepter cans for 20-20+ years now I guess. I have about a dozen. I have used them pretty hard. The internal vent assembly broke on one of them, but it still works. Just does not pour quite as fast at full tilt. Still beats anything else for speed though. Another one is a bit chewed up on the outside from being wedged between and bouncing against a pair of very studded spare tires for a few hundred miles over rough roads and off road. Kinda ugly but still completely functional. I used to carry 8 in racks across the back of the '40. These days when I load that rig up heavy for a long trail I have 4 15 gallon marine fuel jugs on the back bumper instead. I have carried 2 more inside the rig on a couple occasions. Often have a single one in the back of the '80 when I am running that rig (That is gonna end as soon as I get the chance to install the 20 gallon aux fuel tank under the back). ;) But when I only want to carry 5-10 gallons, my well used Scepters are still doing the job. I still have at least a couple NATO (British) mil-surplus cans around here somewhere but I never use them. Just can't bring myself to toss them out since there is nothing wrong with them and they are kinda cool. ;) All the various "Blitz" cans are long gone though.

Mark...
 
I've had really good luck with the VP Racing and clone 5.5 gal containers

They advertise as not for transport of fuel prob because they dont have the human defeating impossible to use features that are carb approved but they come with a poor spout and vent to speed up fill/transfer
 
Seen way too many of the Blitz type cans rust their bottoms out to ever bother with those.

I've no idea about the new Wavian cans, but my old cans of the same type have been solid for decades. No rust, no issues. Going to guess that those that rusted out so fast were Chinesium clones, of which there are many. Bought all but two of mine as Mil Surplus (whose Mil I don't know). The two new(er) cans are branded "Briggs & Stratton". One out of the dozen or so surplus also broke loose it's internal vent tube.

The Swiss nozzle rules for these cans. Rare and expensive when you find one. Worth it.
 
^ right-click on pic, "Search image with Google", order, enjoy the next trip! :)
 
I've been running the Scepter cans for 20-20+ years now I guess. I have about a dozen. I have used them pretty hard. The internal vent assembly broke on one of them, but it still works. Just does not pour quite as fast at full tilt. Still beats anything else for speed though. Another one is a bit chewed up on the outside from being wedged between and bouncing against a pair of very studded spare tires for a few hundred miles over rough roads and off road. Kinda ugly but still completely functional. I used to carry 8 in racks across the back of the '40. These days when I load that rig up heavy for a long trail I have 4 15 gallon marine fuel jugs on the back bumper instead. I have carried 2 more inside the rig on a couple occasions. Often have a single one in the back of the '80 when I am running that rig (That is gonna end as soon as I get the chance to install the 20 gallon aux fuel tank under the back). ;) But when I only want to carry 5-10 gallons, my well used Scepters are still doing the job. I still have at least a couple NATO (British) mil-surplus cans around here somewhere but I never use them. Just can't bring myself to toss them out since there is nothing wrong with them and they are kinda cool. ;) All the various "Blitz" cans are long gone though.

Mark...
Yeah, that’s part of why I bought the metal cans to begin with: I love the aesthetic of the old style stuff. But practicality wins over aesthetics every time when you’re talking about hard use in an outdoor environment.

Love my LRA tank, though!
 
^ right-click on pic, "Search image with Google", order, enjoy the next trip! :)
Not pop-up option in this browser. Had to do it the hard way. And learn how to do it! So I've already learned something today and can go back to bed. :)
 
I was using Chrome. (but you may not want your data sold to the highest bidder, so not a recommendation.)
 

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