JBL Subwoofer Box (2 Viewers)

[Julian73]

I will cut exactly where the subwoofer ends, my only challenge I might face are the mounting tabs, ill have to somehow incorporate additional ones. I already started disassembly and will hopefully reach the sub by EOD.

and no I'm not adding an inverter, just re-locating some digital equipment for the Nav, DVR, AUX, LED controls, fuse box. and most importantly an air compressor. I'm tired of having all my equipment stuffed behind the NAV, under passenger & driver seats, next to the pedals, under the glove box etc. I did a lot of wiring work 10 years ago and recently I wanted to work on the truck and had no idea what the hell was going on, I had wires everywhere with abbreviations I can't remember what they meant. At the time (2010) I had android auto and apple car play features 4 years before they even existed (and on the OEM screen) so alot of wiring was involved... Anyways, this time I am prepared and will ensure

1. I use OEM+ plugs, looms, tape and harnesses
2. That each connection has a disconnect in between
3. Everything is properly labeled IN MORE THAN ONE PLACE.
4. No splice connectors whatsoever
5. I do everything myself, no shops or help from friends unless I can supervise 100%

So hopefully this new place will be a central location for all my addons, i already started and I extracted a s***load of wiring

View attachment 3267798


For those with more than 3 aux addons, are you suffering like I am? upkeeping and planning is very important for future addons if not done properly the first time

I use color coded wires, label function and connection at each end, weatherproof connectors, keep a spreadsheet of components, wires, loom group, connector name, pin # and location, AWG and wire type, fuse size, length and on separate sheet calculation of voltage drops. I also diagram each circuit ... still two years later, scratch my head.

 

[alwaysme]

Haha holy crap instead of a 50% loss, I feel I have gained 200%+ sharper/deeper and stronger bass. These results are done on a cheapo home stereo via bluetooth so far (OEM vs dual baby subs)

I am also shocked on how cheap the JBL woofer sounds in comparison. I also realized the baby subs I got are 8 ohm each. So total 16 ohms vs. the original 2 ohm. Is this fine? What do the audio experts think? I just hope they sound as good when I re-install in the car

If anyone is interested, let me know and I'll try to upload a sound test

 

[grinchy]

The oem amplifier will have 1/8 the power into the 16 ohm load.
You can get it down to four ohm by wiring in parallel, I suggest you do that.
Cone area and excursion are the name of the game in low bass, preferably both.

 

[alwaysme]

The oem amplifier will have 1/8 the power into the 16 ohm load.
You can get it down to four ohm by wiring in parallel, I suggest you do that.
Cone area and excursion are the name of the game in low bass, preferably both.

1/8 the power? That sucks but the sound is MUCH better...im feeding the 2 subs off the OEM 4 wire connector (I believe this makes my connection parallel)

are you able to tell how many ohms this stereo is sending the subs? Will i get better output in the car? Can this be calculated?

Im planning to re-install once I finish customizing the panel, hopefully this week

 

[lx200inAR]

Haha holy crap instead of a 50% loss, I feel I have gained 200%+ sharper/deeper and stronger bass. These results are done on a cheapo home stereo via bluetooth so far (OEM vs dual baby subs)

I am also shocked on how cheap the JBL woofer sounds in comparison. I also realized the baby subs I got are 8 ohm each. So total 16 ohms vs. the original 2 ohm. Is this fine? What do the audio experts think? I just hope they sound as good when I re-install in the car

View attachment 3282760

View attachment 3282761

If anyone is interested, let me know and I'll try to upload a sound test

4 Ohm for sure. I assume since you tested these with a home stereo you ran them on full range outputs. That would certainly create a mixed bag of outcomes.

I suspect the JBL sub is probably not the cleanest, deepest sub, but its strong suit is efficiency. For the given amplifier drive it’s probably louder Than most anything you will find in aftermarket.

The smaller speakers probably sound much better in a full range scenario than the larger JBL just based on size alone. Hopefully that translates when you connect them to the vehicle amp with most likely less power and limited freq range.

 

[lx200inAR]

1/8 the power? That sucks but the sound is MUCH better...im feeding the 2 subs off the OEM 4 wire connector (I believe this makes my connection parallel)

are you able to tell how many ohms this stereo is sending the subs? Will i get better output in the car? Can this be calculated?

View attachment 3282842

Im planning to re-install once I finish customizing the panel, hopefully this week

Haha.. well Maybe not less power.

I think the factory sub is dual voice coil (4leads total) They could be wired either way, but I agree probably parallel. So you are actually presenting an 4ohm load to your amp. I’m wondering if In your test you connected both voice coils to the JBL speaker or only 1.

 

[alwaysme]

Haha.. well Maybe not less power.

I think the factory sub is dual voice coil (4leads total) They could be wired either way, but I agree probably parallel. So you are actually presenting an 4ohm load to your amp. I’m wondering if In your test you connected both voice coils to the JBL speaker or only 1.

I connected the 4 leads from the JBL to the L & R of the stereo output. ill try to get a sound clip in tomorrow. So you mean i now have a 4ohm x 2 on the amp and 8 ohm total ? Sorry this might sound dumb as hell but does this mean more stress on the amp or speaker once i re-install in the car?

 

[grinchy]

there are amp efficiency things in at, but generally an amp is rated at a specific speaker load, such as 8 ohm or 2 ohm.
Broad generalization, but a 100 watt amp rated for 4 ohm, might do 50 watts into 8 ohm, and 175 watts into 2 ohm. Below 2 ohm you get into a lot of auto only high dollar installs, but these amps will often run 3/4 ohm or 1 ohm at 5000w. In a car that is around 500a draw (at 12v).

The stock jbl amp runs at 2 ohm and probably something around 100 w rms . At 16 ohm that is 12 w rms. At 4 ohm it’s. 50 w rms. We have no idea how it will act, its a highly optimized digital switching amp, so it may not love a 16 ohm load.

For reference, I have a dedicated sub amp in my LX, on a dual voice coil 10" speaker rated for 200W rms. I put the speaker coils in serial (roughly 6 ohm), and the sub amp has be tested around 300W into 8 ohm. and 472 into 4 ohm, so around 375W into 6ohm. Obviously I have the gain way down on the amp so I don't blow the speaker. It sounds musical, deep, and pretty amazing, and I'm eyeing a speaker more in line with the amp limitations, something like 600 WRMS 2 ohm speaker (probably a 4 Ohm DVC wired parallel)

 

[lx200inAR]

I connected the 4 leads from the JBL to the L & R of the stereo output. ill try to get a sound clip in tomorrow. So you mean i now have a 4ohm x 2 on the amp and 8 ohm total ? Sorry this might sound dumb as hell but does this mean more stress on the amp or speaker once i re-install in the car?

The impedance rating would be a per isolated channel on an amp. So if you hooked the 4 leads to the (2 to) left and (2 to) right outputs, then you presented a 4 ohm load to each channel.

So that’s another weird thing in your test. Most audio is mixed to mono at lower frequency, but you possibly provided different signal to opposite coils of the same sub, generally for SQ this would be a no no. If your new dual sub was hooked up similarly with left and right, it would definitely sound better.

Also, your 8ohm speakers won’t hurt the amp no matter how you wire them (Serial =16 ohm, parallel = 4 ohm). Lower impedance (high loads) is the only danger really. And the OEM sub is running at 2ohm.