JBL Subwoofer Box

[alwaysme]

Anyone have any tips on how to open the subwoofer enclosure down the center line? is the plastic welded from the inside or just glued/screwed in? i just want to open it the right way as I'm planning on chopping the woofer box off while keeping the other half intact this week)

ps. borrowed photos

 

[Blackbirdaerial]

What are you trying to do? I have a JL sub in there with 200 watts going to it. It’s plenty loud, but no 10 I guess. I think the Lexus box fits and has a 10 inch opening.

 

[alwaysme]

Im planning to utilize that space for something else. Im thinking on cutting the part that holds the 8 inch sub and then remoulding the plastic. From there ill install smaller ones and ill have that space for my other equipment

 

[TeCKis300]

Im planning to utilize that space for something else. Im thinking on cutting the part that holds the 8 inch sub and then remoulding the plastic. From there ill install smaller ones and ill have that space for my other equipment

You probably already know, but the box volume is a tuned component to the sub design. Depending on your priorities, this may not matter?

 

[alwaysme]

I doubt that much engineering went into the sub-box and even if it did, I presume the difference will be negligible..again i dont want to get rid of it 100%, if i can manage to keep 50% of its capability and gain all that space, its good for me

 

[TeCKis300]

I doubt that much engineering went into the sub-box and even if it did, I presume the difference will be negligible..again i dont want to get rid of it 100%, if i can manage to keep 50% of its capability and gain all that space, its good for me

As a previous subwoofer geek having built many of my own boxes, there is actually well understood engineering and tuning for box parameters based on driver characteristics.

Doesn't sound like it'll matter for you. But decreasing the sealed box volume will generally reduce bass extension and output in the lower frequencies.

You can compensate somewhat by adding polyester fiber stuffing.

 

[grinchy]

I assume you would choose your implement of choice (I like the reciprocating/vibration multi-tool type for cutting plastic) and saw down the seam. It's likely heat or chemically (or both) bonded.
drop a free air woofer in there and move along to the next item. you'll lose all the bass extension, but get the space you crave.

Are you putting in a large inverter?

 

[linuxgod]

I’d wager you could fit a 34” sub under the trunk if you were willing to relocate or forgo that pesky spare.

 

[Dunbar]

Two large barrel 1911's or perhaps Micro sub machine gun, with a sub below. Sounds good to me. Still have some base but can hear the opposition and respond accordingly.

 

[Dunbar]

Remember the bad guy in The Untouchables, with Kevin Costner and Sean Connery. He had 2 lathe large 1911's that were wicked looking.

 

[2021 LC200]

Anyone have any tips on how to open the subwoofer enclosure down the center line? is the plastic welded from the inside or just glued/screwed in? i just want to open it the right way as I'm planning on chopping the woofer box off while keeping the other half intact this week)

ps. borrowed photos

Awesome, am planning to do the same to create space for an airlift pump and distribution box for my airbag man airbags keeping that system inside the vehicle and away from dust and water while making coms via my phone and controller easy at the same time. Do not care to much for a subwoofer in the first place yet do not want to just ditch it all together.

My thought looking at pictures of the box by others is to cut just forward of the entry point of the wire loom (per my high tech dwg below...), glue a flat piece of ABS plastic to the hole which I have left over from making a roof rack wind fairing, then wrap it in dynamat or equivalent. Just because I have dynamat laying around and it is easy to put on the outside. Thinking that helps to at least prevents some funny vibration from the box.

Let me know what you decide to do and how it works out.

 

[alwaysme]

I will cut exactly where the subwoofer ends, my only challenge I might face are the mounting tabs, ill have to somehow incorporate additional ones. I already started disassembly and will hopefully reach the sub by EOD.

and no I'm not adding an inverter, just re-locating some digital equipment for the Nav, DVR, AUX, LED controls, fuse box. and most importantly an air compressor. I'm tired of having all my equipment stuffed behind the NAV, under passenger & driver seats, next to the pedals, under the glove box etc. I did a lot of wiring work 10 years ago and recently I wanted to work on the truck and had no idea what the hell was going on, I had wires everywhere with abbreviations I can't remember what they meant. At the time (2010) I had android auto and apple car play features 4 years before they even existed (and on the OEM screen) so alot of wiring was involved... Anyways, this time I am prepared and will ensure

1. I use OEM+ plugs, looms, tape and harnesses
2. That each connection has a disconnect in between
3. Everything is properly labeled IN MORE THAN ONE PLACE.
4. No splice connectors whatsoever
5. I do everything myself, no shops or help from friends unless I can supervise 100%

So hopefully this new place will be a central location for all my addons, i already started and I extracted a s***load of wiring

For those with more than 3 aux addons, are you suffering like I am? upkeeping and planning is very important for future addons if not done properly the first time

 

[Sandroad]

I will cut exactly where the subwoofer ends, my only challenge I might face are the mounting tabs, ill have to somehow incorporate additional ones. I already started disassembly and will hopefully reach the sub by EOD.

and no I'm not adding an inverter, just re-locating some digital equipment for the Nav, DVR, AUX, LED controls, fuse box. and most importantly an air compressor. I'm tired of having all my equipment stuffed behind the NAV, under passenger & driver seats, next to the pedals, under the glove box etc. I did a lot of wiring work 10 years ago and recently I wanted to work on the truck and had no idea what the hell was going on, I had wires everywhere with abbreviations I can't remember what they meant. At the time (2010) I had android auto and apple car play features 4 years before they even existed (and on the OEM screen) so alot of wiring was involved... Anyways, this time I am prepared and will ensure

1. I use OEM+ plugs, looms, tape and harnesses
2. That each connection has a disconnect in between
3. Everything is properly labeled IN MORE THAN ONE PLACE.
4. No splice connectors whatsoever
5. I do everything myself, no shops or help from friends unless I can supervise 100%

So hopefully this new place will be a central location for all my addons, i already started and I extracted a s***load of wiring

View attachment 3267798


For those with more than 3 aux addons, are you suffering like I am? upkeeping and planning is very important for future addons if not done properly the first time

Long overdue!

 

[linuxgod]

Two large barrel 1911's or perhaps Micro sub machine gun, with a sub below. Sounds good to me. Still have some base but can hear the opposition and respond accordingly.

Different sub than I was thinking about but this reply is nonetheless awesome

 

[linuxgod]

Awesome, am planning to do the same to create space for an airlift pump and distribution box for my airbag man airbags keeping that system inside the vehicle and away from dust and water while making coms via my phone and controller easy at the same time. Do not care to much for a subwoofer in the first place yet do not want to just ditch it all together.
View attachment 3267696

My thought looking at pictures of the box by others is to cut just forward of the entry point of the wire loom (per my high tech dwg below...), glue a flat piece of ABS plastic to the hole which I have left over from making a roof rack wind fairing, then wrap it in dynamat or equivalent. Just because I have dynamat laying around and it is easy to put on the outside. Thinking that helps to at least prevents some funny vibration from the box.

Let me know what you decide to do and how it works out.

View attachment 3267705

I just removed my jack and put mine there. Destroying the sub seems excessive for an airbag pump

 

[2021 LC200]

I just removed my jack and put mine there. Destroying the sub seems excessive for an airbag pump

Well, it all depends.

My experience and likes:
- in the first weeks of ownership I had a flat and needed the jack. Since then, I bought this axle/frame support adaptor to facilitate safe jacking, which I also keep in the OEM place. I do not want to carry the jack separately, as a loose item in the back. On some trips I would have it with me, on others not. Or when my wife wants to move things and would throw it out. In the end a flat can happen anytime, so I figured the jack is a must and am choosing to keep it in the OEM place.

- The other part is I am ready to take out the subwoofer all together. I like listening to music with a regular mix of low, mid and higher tones. Have zero interest in pumping bass type music. In fact I find it annoying. If I want to feel bass I go to a concert or a dance place with load music. Done that, enjoyed it, moved on since...
- Considering the above, cutting off a part of the subwoofer box may be a good compromise. The subwoofer pre and post may in fact not be much difference. I will check just for s***s and giggles. If it works badly, some kind of distorted sound, I will remove it entirely. Otherwise, I may do in the future when I need the space. By the way many Land Cruiser versions overseas do not have the subwoofer, so without it cannot be too bad.


Also been told to consider putting the air compressor in the space inside the rear bumper on the side. I get that. I am not overly keen. After one trip to Utah with red dust everywhere I prefer not to put it outside for light airbag duty, unless no other reasonable solution can be found. Also do not want to stick it under the hood and run long lines. Nor go for the cost and relative complexity of getting an ARB compressor and tying it all in with the airlift controller.

All in all many options and solutions others may prefer. Whatever floats your or my boat I guess...

 

[TeCKis300]

Well, it all depends.

My experience and likes:
- in the first weeks of ownership I had a flat and needed the jack. Since then, I bought this axle/frame support adaptor to facilitate safe jacking, which I also keep in the OEM place. I do not want to carry the jack separately, as a loose item in the back. On some trips I would have it with me, on others not. Or when my wife wants to move things and would throw it out. In the end a flat can happen anytime, so I figured the jack is a must and am choosing to keep it in the OEM place.

View attachment 3268202

- The other part is I am ready to take out the subwoofer all together. I like listening to music with a regular mix of low, mid and higher tones. Have zero interest in pumping bass type music. In fact I find it annoying. If I want to feel bass I go to a concert or a dance place with load music. Done that, enjoyed it, moved on since...
- Considering the above, cutting off a part of the subwoofer box may be a good compromise. The subwoofer pre and post may in fact not be much difference. I will check just for s***s and giggles. If it works badly, some kind of distorted sound, I will remove it entirely. Otherwise, I may do in the future when I need the space. By the way many Land Cruiser versions overseas do not have the subwoofer, so without it cannot be too bad.


Also been told to consider putting the air compressor in the space inside the rear bumper on the side. I get that. I am not overly keen. After one trip to Utah with red dust everywhere I prefer not to put it outside for light airbag duty, unless no other reasonable solution can be found. Also do not want to stick it under the hood and run long lines. Nor go for the cost and relative complexity of getting an ARB compressor and tying it all in with the airlift controller.

All in all many options and solutions others may prefer. Whatever floats your or my boat I guess...

There may be opportunities to simplify the install. That area wouldn't be my first choice only because of the complexity of getting at that space, let alone need to cut-up the subwoofer.

These airbag pumps by design are meant to be installed in the elements. That's where OEMs install them.

If you look at the pump, there is a fitting where you can remote mount the intake air filter. I would likewise recommend installing it in the space inside the rear bumper along the frame rail. Then plumb the intake to inside the cabin if dust concerns you. There is a nice large grommet near that location at the bottom of the storage space where the OEM jack is located.

 

[grinchy]

Air compressor in the cabin is noisy.
I put some minor $ into upgrading the sub and amp and think it is one of the better mods I’ve done. I’m in the car a lot and that extra couple octaves rounds out the sound nicely. I am not a bass head.

If you stay the course on putting a compressor inside, there is a kit to mount the arb dual and a 1 gallon tank available from arb. Much of the row tlc don’t come with that subwoofer at all.

 

[alwaysme]

So i managed to reach the sub enclosure and successfully removed it. Before I mutilate the box, does anyone know if the drain hose should connect to the black hose? Did the factory forget to connect them ?

 

[grinchy]

you're suggesting the pink thing goes in the black tube?