Is this the radiator beginning-of-the-end crack?
- Thread starter thammer62
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Yes, that's it. And it looks pretty far along. I would replace soon.
That is exactly what mine looked like immediately prior to failure.
Replace asap
Might as well do the belt and pulleys.
Search the threads here, youll want to consider the belts, water pump and other associated crap while they are in there
I have a 2013 with 73k miles and so far so good. Is there a way to prevent that crack? Like put an epoxy on there now?
I'll do it......
forum.ih8mud.com
2008-2018 Radiator Failure and Public Service Announcement
I just noticed yesterday on my 2011 L.C w/ 121,600 miles. I have the infamous radiator hairline crack. I was going to replace my water pump and thermostat in a few weeks...looks like I'll be adding this to the list. The radiator in the picture provided is the newer version that has been revised...
forum.ih8mud.com
2nd the note to change water pump at same time. Cheap ad on to do at same time. Mine started leaking just under 80k miles.
- Thread starter
- #12
Why is my local LC expert saying the water pump is a completely different area/job and not a useful labor savings while in the area doing the radiator? Is he incorrect? Based on the other threads I’ve read it sounds like he is.
You need to pull out the radiator to replace the water pump, usually. Your guy may be more talented than most.
CharlieS
GOLD Star
He's not wrong, but removing the radiator is a step in the FSM for getting to the water pump. A lot of us have a "while you're in there" philosophy to avoid double labor (diy) or double labor costs (shop). It's pretty easy to do the water pump, idler, tensioner, thermostat, belt and hoses while you're in there. The water pump life is often similar to the radiator life on pre '18 200 series. Why not just do it and have another trouble free 100k miles? 
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Preventative maintenance is the name of the game. Better to do it before you need it, when the vehicle will already be down for a day or so, then to have to do it later, and have it down for longer.
I'd just do the radiator and hoses. The clamps are technically single-use and may need to be replaced as well. Dealer will probably hit you for 2 gallons of coolant as well. You're only going to save maybe $125 in labor by waiting on the water pump.
My radiator on my 2013 was done at 76k. I'm at 121k and no issues with the water pump. I did do the belt and tensioner at about 105k due to a slight chirp when cold/wet.
I would not do the water pump right now unless it's leaking. The water pump is a slow death and if you just check it around oil changes you'll know well in advance when it needs to be replaced. Based on the book rate, doing the water pump now is 0.8 hours of labor, vs 1.8 hours if you do it by itself. Your mileage is so low I would not be surprised if that water pump goes another 100k.
My radiator on my 2013 was done at 76k. I'm at 121k and no issues with the water pump. I did do the belt and tensioner at about 105k due to a slight chirp when cold/wet.
I would not do the water pump right now unless it's leaking. The water pump is a slow death and if you just check it around oil changes you'll know well in advance when it needs to be replaced. Based on the book rate, doing the water pump now is 0.8 hours of labor, vs 1.8 hours if you do it by itself. Your mileage is so low I would not be surprised if that water pump goes another 100k.
- Thread starter
- #17
Thanks for the tip. Did this last year when they were squealing a bit.
So the dreaded, early year 200 series radiator issue, reared it's head. 2011 88k. Popped the hood to check the oil and coolant, in Bullhead City AZ [ away Phx/ home of course ] I noticed splatter that isn't normal, it wasn't bad, but it was definitely there. There was no immediate sign of why, but when looking under, a small puddle was noticeable and my first thought was the known split by the part number rectangle, on the radiator top. The reservoir was still 80% full. So cleaning it up and turning it on, letting it idle and, there it was, the seeping at the rectangle. Thankfully not on the road like some I've seen that are a catastrophic radiator pop.
So, good news, not stuck on side of az93 in middle of remoteness, not stuck in hotel with mutts, stuck at a relatives. Bad news, no more Toyota in Bullhead City it seems. Looks like Havasu is closest, 45 minutes away. Closed Sunday. Will call them tomorrow and fingers crossed they have one in stock for a 2011. If not, 2nd hope, one in LA that can arrive that night for a Tuesday install and not overseas. I can't do this myself.
My questions are [ along with any unsolicited advice ] 1. Anyone have any experience with Havasu Toyota service? 2. Ballpark spend, since i'm not at home where CSC is strong. The CSC hook up, or the other locals like @Cruiserhiggs for me is the peace of mind, that the price is fair and it'll be done right the first time. It's only seeping and figured I'd flat bed it to Havasu [ 45miles ], as it's the closest, but given it's a seep, can it be limped or not worth the gamble?
Thanks for the insights folks. I cross posted in the local AZ csc forum as well.
pic for reference of where leaking, borrowed from mud but the pics in the beginning of this thread show it pretty well.
So, good news, not stuck on side of az93 in middle of remoteness, not stuck in hotel with mutts, stuck at a relatives. Bad news, no more Toyota in Bullhead City it seems. Looks like Havasu is closest, 45 minutes away. Closed Sunday. Will call them tomorrow and fingers crossed they have one in stock for a 2011. If not, 2nd hope, one in LA that can arrive that night for a Tuesday install and not overseas. I can't do this myself.
My questions are [ along with any unsolicited advice ] 1. Anyone have any experience with Havasu Toyota service? 2. Ballpark spend, since i'm not at home where CSC is strong. The CSC hook up, or the other locals like @Cruiserhiggs for me is the peace of mind, that the price is fair and it'll be done right the first time. It's only seeping and figured I'd flat bed it to Havasu [ 45miles ], as it's the closest, but given it's a seep, can it be limped or not worth the gamble?
Thanks for the insights folks. I cross posted in the local AZ csc forum as well.
pic for reference of where leaking, borrowed from mud but the pics in the beginning of this thread show it pretty well.
bloc
SILVER Star
Are you towing? What will temps be like on your route home?
Many people have driven many miles with an actively leaking radiator. Since the crack is at the top the leaking will be limited UNLESS you are working the cooling system really hard such as towing a large trailer or in high ambient temps.
Personally I’d get a gallon of official toyota coolant and drive it. (or even distilled water if you can’t get the real toyota stuff. Do not mix with any other coolant despite the promises of compatibility.)
gallon of toyota SLL is not an option, as i'd have to drive 45 min in opposite direction, to the dealer, potentially doing the repair TBD. I realistically have to drive 150-200 miles thru some of the most remote arizona desert in the state, no services, and then another 100miles home. Not towing, but huge, long hills. Ambient in the mornings likely 55 degrees, 90 in pm. Does going 60mph vs 80mph make a pressure difference on the cooling system? Could I use tap water in the short term, it'd be changed out pretty much at once? I get attempting driving it, but if it fully blows in the middle of nowhere, i'm in even worse shape, with the wife and mutts than now. Tbat said I'd much rather have this sorted out in Phoenix but not sure at what dice roll?
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