Is this the radiator beginning-of-the-end crack?

[bloc]

gallon of toyota SLL is not an option, as i'd have to drive 45 min in opposite direction, to the dealer, potentially doing the repair TBD. I realistically have to drive 150-200 miles thru some of the most remote arizona desert in the state, no services, and then another 100miles home. Not towing, but huge, long hills. Ambient in the mornings likely 55 degrees, 90 in pm. Does going 60mph vs 80mph make a pressure difference on the cooling system? Could I use tap water in the short term, it'd be changed out pretty much at once? I get attempting driving it, but if it fully blows in the middle of nowhere, i'm in even worse shape, with the wife and mutts than now. Tbat said I'd much rather have this sorted out in Phoenix but not sure at what dice roll?

Good points. Remote and bad comms with a compromised cooling system doesn’t sound like a good risk to take with family.

Maybe try one of the patches people have posted about in the big radiator thread. People that patch before the leak have had great results, and I think some people that patched an active leak even got temporary results.. though definitely double check me on that.

I still wouldn’t put tap water in it. They won’t necessarily flush the whole system, likely just drain enough to do the work and refill. Adding anything to the system that isn’t intended to stay just increases the work involved. And I can speak from experience in that fully draining the rear heat lines and core is not easy.

 

[04UZJ100]

gallon of toyota SLL is not an option, as i'd have to drive 45 min in opposite direction, to the dealer, potentially doing the repair TBD. I realistically have to drive 150-200 miles thru some of the most remote arizona desert in the state, no services, and then another 100miles home. Not towing, but huge, long hills. Ambient in the mornings likely 55 degrees, 90 in pm. Does going 60mph vs 80mph make a pressure difference on the cooling system? Could I use tap water in the short term, it'd be changed out pretty much at once? I get attempting driving it, but if it fully blows in the middle of nowhere, i'm in even worse shape, with the wife and mutts than now. Tbat said I'd much rather have this sorted out in Phoenix but not sure at what dice roll?

Go to Napa and get Zerex Asian knowing that you’ll flush it out soon enough. Folks have run green and been ok in a pinch too…

 

[highfructose]

2013 w 64k mi
View attachment 2793206

View attachment 2793210
If so, is this urgent? I usually check every few weeks and this is the first I’ve seen of it.

Jb weld radiator patch…

And an extra in the back of the truck just in case.

If there’s only one weak spot…and you can make it stronger than oem for $15….why not do it.

 

[bloc]

Go to Napa and get Zerex Asian knowing that you’ll flush it out soon enough. Folks have run green and been ok in a pinch too…

Having done my own flush/drain/fill I would not trust a dealer to do it correctly. Getting the rear lines and core empty is a serious task, and there is some kind of valve in there too that makes blowing the lines out with air ineffective.

Simply adding distilled water in a small volume prevents any need for a flush later.

 

[04UZJ100]

Having done my own flush/drain/fill I would not trust a dealer to do it correctly. Getting the rear lines and core empty is a serious task, and there is some kind of valve in there too that makes blowing the lines out with air ineffective.

Simply adding distilled water in a small volume prevents any need for a flush later.

Good thought. Didn’t cross my mind.

 

[blatant]

to bring mine to a soon to be close:
Welp, the patch isn't going to work, even with the cap half turned, idling it's leaking pretty good. I'm too far from home, through too remote of a desert stretch to chance it [ beautiful, but very remote ] so I'll have it flat bed to the dealer 50miles away and have them get it sorted out. They have to order the radiator, get it in a day, from Phoenix of all spots...where I'm headed. I like time off from work, but would rather it be for other reasons.

Thanks all that messaged or added.

as far as other coolant or flush, none added, no flush needed, just the addition of new that the swap depletes.

 

[radman]

Figured I’d hijack this thread rather than start a new one…

I’m at 82k miles in a 2015, and I’m making a list of warranty items before I hit up LCDC in july.

What do you guys think about the pic below. And if you see a crack, do you think dealer will agree?
I know they get paid less for warranty work vs book cost, so not sure if they will push back on it.

 

[roscoFJ73]

It seems the V8 diesel 200 series are having a crack problem as well. Im not sure if its in the same spot. I noticed my friends 200 diesel was making a coolant smell and the dealer found the crack.

 

[bloc]

Figured I’d hijack this thread rather than start a new one…

I’m at 82k miles in a 2015, and I’m making a list of warranty items before I hit up LCDC in july.

What do you guys think about the pic below. And if you see a crack, do you think dealer will agree?
I know they get paid less for warranty work vs book cost, so not sure if they will push back on it.

View attachment 2954648

Some dealers will claim that unless it is leaking they won't mess with it. I'd provide them this thread and especially the far bigger public service announcement thread with dozens of pictures of cracked and leaking radiators to help them in their decision making.

That said, I believe this crack will go a long time before it actually fails. Usually they are a good quarter inch past the driver's side edge of the raised portion before they start leaking.

 

[radman]

Some dealers will claim that unless it is leaking they won't mess with it. I'd provide them this thread and especially the far bigger public service announcement thread with dozens of pictures of cracked and leaking radiators to help them in their decision making.

That said, I believe this crack will go a long time before it actually fails. Usually they are a good quarter inch past the driver's side edge of the raised portion before they start leaking.

Thanks, I was looking for that PSA thread, but our amazing search feature was hiding it from me…

 

[highfructose]

Figured I’d hijack this thread rather than start a new one…

I’m at 82k miles in a 2015, and I’m making a list of warranty items before I hit up LCDC in july.

What do you guys think about the pic below. And if you see a crack, do you think dealer will agree?
I know they get paid less for warranty work vs book cost, so not sure if they will push back on it.

View attachment 2954648

You might consider preemptively placing a $15 JB weld radiator patch kit on that spot…then carrying an extra kit in your vehicle.

For all you know it’s just that one weak spot and the radiator will, if patched preemptively, last 250k miles.

I did it perhaps 15-20k miles ago when mine looked like yours. No regrets so far.

 

[bloc]

You might consider preemptively placing a $15 JB weld radiator patch kit on that spot…then carrying an extra kit in your vehicle.

For all you know it’s just that one weak spot and the radiator will, if patched preemptively, last 250k miles.

I did it perhaps 15-20k miles ago when mine looked like yours. No regrets so far.

I’m coming around to the idea of the JB patch due to the track record, but that would also destroy any hope of Toyota replacing his radiator with the new one under warranty.

I’d have to dig up the pictures but I replaced a friend’s cracking radiator and the old one sat beside my garage for a couple weeks. Once the inside of the upper tank dried out there was much more visible degradation to the upper hose spout and inside of that tank.

An opportunity to have that replaced and reset the clock is valuable.

 

[bloc]

Found it. 110k. Lower tank was fine.

 

[Itsky]

I would just replace it, mine never had a big crack, it looked kind of like your picture here and then boom. Lucky for me it was while I was in my garage.

 

[PDoyle]

A big problem is not knowing when the tank actually cracks.
You can get alot of miles in before you see pink unless your popping the hood. The temp gauge doesn't even move.

 

[scott johnson]

Are you towing? What will temps be like on your route home?

Many people have driven many miles with an actively leaking radiator. Since the crack is at the top the leaking will be limited UNLESS you are working the cooling system really hard such as towing a large trailer or in high ambient temps.

Personally I’d get a gallon of official toyota coolant and drive it. (or even distilled water if you can’t get the real toyota stuff. Do not mix with any other coolant despite the promises of compatibility.)

Mine cracked and I have a new radiator in my shop. Just haven’t had the time to do it yet. I patched the radiator with some heavy duty JB weld and it’s holding for now. Took advantage of Toyotas parts sale last week and ordered the water pump and other stuff to replace when I do the radiator. Still have to get the serpentine belt. Came up with this part number (00272-1llac-02) for the pink stuff can someone confirm this is the right stuff. I’ve only been able to find it in the 50/50. I’d rather get concentrate and mix with distilled water. Hate paying for high priced water when you can buy a gallon of distilled for $1 Bad news is when I get done with this I’m pretty sure I have the dreaded Valley leak also.

 

[Tadem]

I have a 2013 with 73k miles and so far so good. Is there a way to prevent that crack? Like put an epoxy on there now?

I did apply epoxy but can’t say it’s a good strategy. You won’t know how this crack develops under it. When I replaced mine I cut off peace with crack and it showed that crack develops on outside.

 

[bloc]

Mine cracked and I have a new radiator in my shop. Just haven’t had the time to do it yet. I patched the radiator with some heavy duty JB weld and it’s holding for now. Took advantage of Toyotas parts sale last week and ordered the water pump and other stuff to replace when I do the radiator. Still have to get the serpentine belt. Came up with this part number (00272-1llac-02) for the pink stuff can someone confirm this is the right stuff. I’ve only been able to find it in the 50/50. I’d rather get concentrate and mix with distilled water. Hate paying for high priced water when you can buy a gallon of distilled for $1 Bad news is when I get done with this I’m pretty sure I have the dreaded Valley leak also.View attachment 2962352

I believe that is the older Red coolant. You need pink Super Long Life 00272-SLLC2

I've only ever seen it in 50/50 pre-mix

 

[Climbingnut]

It seems the V8 diesel 200 series are having a crack problem as well. Im not sure if its in the same spot. I noticed my friends 200 diesel was making a coolant smell and the dealer found the crack.

Eish, that’s no good mate. Is that isolated to your buddies cruiser or is this becoming a trend on Aussie 200 V8 diesel’s? I’m not sure about the petrol models, but with the V8 diesel the radiator is covered by a the intercooler air ram valance. In order to inspect the radiator, one has to remove that valance…

 

[roscoFJ73]

Eish, that’s no good mate. Is that isolated to your buddies cruiser or is this becoming a trend on Aussie 200 V8 diesel’s? I’m not sure about the petrol models, but with the V8 diesel the radiator is covered by a the intercooler air ram valance. In order to inspect the radiator, one has to remove that valance…

I dont know about it being common on the diesels. My mate got it fixed with a new radiator cheap but he wasnt happy with the install and finished it off himself.