I would love to help out, however, I was in the middle of the same issue and working to solve it when I was rear ended by a drunk uninsured illegal who totaled the Cruiser. I had the issue for awhile but never had brake problems. I think the issue was the pump sticking and the pressure cutoff switch. I would look into that before spending 700-1000 on the whole system.
is this sound the accuator or the pump on the brake system?
- Thread starter aroq
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I just had this issue again. I had already changed out the booster pump and accumalator. I can pump the brakes for 40 times until I get a dead pedal.
I rebuilt the master cylinder since I got the kit and did not do it the first time. I bleed the brakes up front using a helper then the rears with the booster pump. Bleed the front again. Its been fine and will rebleed w/ tech stream.
I rebuilt the master cylinder since I got the kit and did not do it the first time. I bleed the brakes up front using a helper then the rears with the booster pump. Bleed the front again. Its been fine and will rebleed w/ tech stream.
It would be nice to find the solution and document it here. I had an 80 land cruiser and the 80 forum here helped me tremendously. There doesn't seem to be the same resources on the 100 forum. I'd like to help with that if possible.
I have had my truck parked since the middle of June now. The whole master cylinder assembly is out. I took the motor and accumulator down to a electric motor rebuild shop. They had it for 2 weeks and then said it was fine.
I ordered a booster assembly but it arrived broken. It was used and a great deal. I havene't found another deal yet like that. Even used I'm looking at $500+
I've been reading here and on other forums. I've read that the booster assembly didn't fix it, that it was the MC. I am waiting for the rebuild kit to arrive.
I'll look into the pressure switch too.
Thanks again for the video. This is exactly what mine is doing. No change in brakes performance at all.
I have had my truck parked since the middle of June now. The whole master cylinder assembly is out. I took the motor and accumulator down to a electric motor rebuild shop. They had it for 2 weeks and then said it was fine.
I ordered a booster assembly but it arrived broken. It was used and a great deal. I havene't found another deal yet like that. Even used I'm looking at $500+
I've been reading here and on other forums. I've read that the booster assembly didn't fix it, that it was the MC. I am waiting for the rebuild kit to arrive.
I'll look into the pressure switch too.
Thanks again for the video. This is exactly what mine is doing. No change in brakes performance at all.
I have not. The assembly that arrived broken was snapped right where the canister connects. There was a rod/spring inside.
Can the accumulator be separated easily?
According to the FSM the accumulator just screws off/on and is torqued to 36ft lbs. FSM calls for a SST but I'm sure you could improvise. Obviously you'd not remove the accumulator whilst the system was pressurized.
As previously stated, my LC was totaled about a week before I deployed while dealing with this issue. In the meantime, I had ordered the brake booster pump assembly w/accumulator and am looking to sell it back to get my money. If anyone is interested in the part I am just looking to get my money back which is pretty much at cost for the part. I can send pics, please send a message if you need one. Thanks
Did you end of resolving your issue?? Kinda going through the same thing and curious if found a resolution.
- Thread starter
- #30
yep, sometimes that is what I get as well. then after a few cycles of the pump it goes away. Like maybe 5 or ten minutes later.
But I also get the goose. This goose honking noise before the buzzing.
But I also get the goose. This goose honking noise before the buzzing.
I don’t know whether to but to bullet and get the whole MC assembly or just the pump and actuator?
- Thread starter
- #32
I'm going to just have me pump repaired one of these days. I can't fork out that kinda cash not knowing if a $200 repair of the pump would fix it. So mine will cost $4k plus my $200.
Ya, I’m sure I’ll do the same thing. When it comes to dropping that kind of money I always chicken out...like pretending I’m going to talk to a girl that’s out of my league...LOL
I think you can buy it in two different assemblies - pump and accumulator, and the MC. I might part it together as funds free up.
I had the same problem with the Booster Pump. Check this link for the SOCAL shop to rebuild it: Source for rebuilt booster pump on master cylinder
The original unit in my 100 started making a really horrible screeching sound when it was cold - only in the morning - and worse than the first video. Never had any lights or sirens, bought a second hand unit and waited until the warnings started then switched them out, but it ran fine through summer for about a year.
This unit was running fine for months, until the warning lights and siren came... and then you can hear the pump battling to run long enough to pressurise the system. Had breaks go while my wife was driving (slowly luckily) and she left on the side of the road for me to get home.
So have the original being unit checked to see if the motor can be rebuilt - but apart from that I need to stick it on to see if anything else is at fault and start mixing and matching.
I was wondering having redone the front brakes and discs before this started, could those have caused anything or is that co-incidental?
This unit was running fine for months, until the warning lights and siren came... and then you can hear the pump battling to run long enough to pressurise the system. Had breaks go while my wife was driving (slowly luckily) and she left on the side of the road for me to get home.
So have the original being unit checked to see if the motor can be rebuilt - but apart from that I need to stick it on to see if anything else is at fault and start mixing and matching.
I was wondering having redone the front brakes and discs before this started, could those have caused anything or is that co-incidental?
(I posted this on a different thread originally...so if you're see this twice sorry)
Okay, so I rebuilt my booster pump motor (sent it to Charlie at Eurton in California) and reinstalled it, bled the brakes, went on a dirt road and activated the ABS several times, then bled the brakes again. All seemed to be fine until a few days later it started to buzz again. BUT there were no dash lights or alarms this time...just the buzzing. . It started while sitting in my inclined driveway, in Drive, waiting for my daughter to get in the car. It stopped about 500 ft down the road, after I stomped on the brakes about 5 times (I might have been a bit angry). I then drove 5 miles down the road and back with no issue. I'm so puzzled at this point I don't know what to do. Anybody have any ideas?
This is the noise:
Okay, so I rebuilt my booster pump motor (sent it to Charlie at Eurton in California) and reinstalled it, bled the brakes, went on a dirt road and activated the ABS several times, then bled the brakes again. All seemed to be fine until a few days later it started to buzz again. BUT there were no dash lights or alarms this time...just the buzzing. . It started while sitting in my inclined driveway, in Drive, waiting for my daughter to get in the car. It stopped about 500 ft down the road, after I stomped on the brakes about 5 times (I might have been a bit angry). I then drove 5 miles down the road and back with no issue. I'm so puzzled at this point I don't know what to do. Anybody have any ideas?
This is the noise:
I have not figured it out. I'm pretty sure the problem is somewhere in the pump or accumulator. It's so intermittent and never lasts very long. I ordered a second pump assembly from eBay but it was wrong. I had my motor checked out by an old shop owner but he said the motor was fine. Good luck. I'll eventually get a booster assembly.
I see above thread is from a couple years ago, but I'm having this very problem in my 2004 LC. Anyone care to share updates to above? Replaced booster pump solve issue? Should I not waste time piecemealing this job and just go all the way to full MC & component replacement?
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