Is this Normal for a 2008 LC200
- Thread starter silverZ
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Wow, salt working on a vehicle that I bet was kept in a heated garage and not washed often in the winter. I would not own that 200.
MScruiser
obsessive-compulsive oppositional-defiant wise-ass
I'd Pass. It will only get worse.
bjowett
Supporting Vendor
I've seen worse… still, pass on this one, find a cleaner unit.
Heck no! I have a 2008 without a lick of rust and I live in Portland, OR where it rains all the time.
Overland Tailor
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Its not the rain, its the salt used on the roads along with the aforementioned heated garages, no rinse after driving that does it.
This might help in doing an initial selection... Remember to use the Toyota Site or Carfax to determine the states the vehicle was registered in and how much time in spent in those states. Ive seen loads of cars for sale in the south that were rust belt vehicles sold at auction and moved south.
Best of luck,
J
This might help in doing an initial selection... Remember to use the Toyota Site or Carfax to determine the states the vehicle was registered in and how much time in spent in those states. Ive seen loads of cars for sale in the south that were rust belt vehicles sold at auction and moved south.
Best of luck,
J
Its not the rain, its the salt used on the roads along with the aforementioned heated garages, no rinse after driving that does it.
This might help in doing an initial selection... Remember to use the Toyota Site or Carfax to determine the states the vehicle was registered in and how much time in spent in those states. Ive seen loads of cars for sale in the south that were rust belt vehicles sold at auction and moved south.
Best of luck,
J
Ok what would they use salt for in Vegas, Southern California, never gets below freezing
. But is a good tool along with common sense.
MScruiser
obsessive-compulsive oppositional-defiant wise-ass
My truck spent its whole life in Ft. Collins, CO (3 years). It has just a teeny tiny bit of surface rust on just a few little places. That map does make sense as it enforces what I had always heard; Colorado uses MgCl instead of NaCl. I had looked at another CO truck before, and it was the same story; just a tiny bit of surface rust.
That being said, MgCl is not perfect---from looking at other Colorado trucks, almost all of them had some sort of corrosion on the fake chrome trim (mine did not thankfully). It looks like dark grey blotches in the chrome. In one extreme case I saw, the chrome was completely peeling off in some places.
That being said, MgCl is not perfect---from looking at other Colorado trucks, almost all of them had some sort of corrosion on the fake chrome trim (mine did not thankfully). It looks like dark grey blotches in the chrome. In one extreme case I saw, the chrome was completely peeling off in some places.
I have had Toyota's in the Boston area over the years and this is certainly an issue. Sadly, our beloved Toy's seem to have a serious problem over the last 10-15 years with the quality of the coatings on their undercarriage parts. Just see the full blown recalls for frame replacements on Tacomas and Tundras. I was hoping that the 200's would be better, but maybe not.
That said, I keep my cars clean with an undercarriage wash weekly in the winter, and crawl under them every fall and touch up the surface rust with a wire brush and Rustoleum Rust Reformer rattle can. They look perfect. It's not a ton of effort, but the Mazdas, Subarus, Fords, BMW's and Porsches I have had owned over the last 20 years have not required ANY attention for rust underneath. Our Sienna minivan also had no rust issues.
Of course, the Toyota trucks have only required brakes and oil changes for the first 100K miles. None of those other makes are even close in mechanical reliability. Toyota wins hands down, which is why I just bought my fourth.
That said, I keep my cars clean with an undercarriage wash weekly in the winter, and crawl under them every fall and touch up the surface rust with a wire brush and Rustoleum Rust Reformer rattle can. They look perfect. It's not a ton of effort, but the Mazdas, Subarus, Fords, BMW's and Porsches I have had owned over the last 20 years have not required ANY attention for rust underneath. Our Sienna minivan also had no rust issues.
Of course, the Toyota trucks have only required brakes and oil changes for the first 100K miles. None of those other makes are even close in mechanical reliability. Toyota wins hands down, which is why I just bought my fourth.
Every Toyota I've owned which has been in colorado the chrome gets damaged through the winter. The dealer typically will replace those pieces for you. My rear garnish is pretty bad but I've been planning on changing it anyways so keeping my replacement in the back pocket when I need to replace the front grill. I've never had any issues with frame rust though.
northeast cars and trucks require a little more tcl.
Im just north of NYC and the municipalities use so much salt. NYC does not shut down and everyone must get to work.
During the winter I rinse my cars weekly with hot water as long as the temp is above 32 and if it's just below 32 I rinse in the street because there's a load of salt and the water won't freeze. When I change oil of the lift it's a wire brush and a can of rust oleum.
My 100 has spent its life in NY and I've said this before. I think the hardware used is/was better than in the 200. The 100's bolts are almost all cadmium plated and resist rust I have noticed many of the bolts on the 200 show more signs of rust. Just an example the 3 bolts that secure the KDSS cover and the KDSS shutter valves. All difficult to remove.
BUT, I would never go back to the 100. Just need to take extra care of the 200 so I get 200k out of her.
Slee works on all walks of life, from around the country, wonder what he sees.
Im just north of NYC and the municipalities use so much salt. NYC does not shut down and everyone must get to work.
During the winter I rinse my cars weekly with hot water as long as the temp is above 32 and if it's just below 32 I rinse in the street because there's a load of salt and the water won't freeze. When I change oil of the lift it's a wire brush and a can of rust oleum.
My 100 has spent its life in NY and I've said this before. I think the hardware used is/was better than in the 200. The 100's bolts are almost all cadmium plated and resist rust I have noticed many of the bolts on the 200 show more signs of rust. Just an example the 3 bolts that secure the KDSS cover and the KDSS shutter valves. All difficult to remove.
BUT, I would never go back to the 100. Just need to take extra care of the 200 so I get 200k out of her.
Slee works on all walks of life, from around the country, wonder what he sees.
