Is that trailer tongue OK?

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e9999

Gotta get out there...
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what do you think of that tongue?
just cantilevered out like that with no braces.
Better for jackknifing presumably, but do you think this would be sturdy enough (no idea what the wall thickness is, but doubt it's solid)?
What would it take, thickness wise to make this sturdy enough to avoid problems?
Then again, adding a couple of braces would be easy enough...
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You are correct to suspect that tongue if it is just butt welded to the first cross member. I would double up the tube on the bottom (with a beefy enough thickness not to worry) and extend it below the trailer to the next crossmember... at least.

That design is fine as long as the material is beefy enough. Otherwise, adding a couple angled pieces up front to triangulate the draw bar wouldn't hurt either.

FWIW, I used that design so I could jack-knife the trailer in a tight spot and really turn the trailer. I also used two pieces of 1/4" tubing slid inside one another.
 
Mine's a similar design, depends on trailer weight and material used. x2 on what Rezarf said.

At some point on mine someone added a smaller piece of box steel underneath the tongue, that extends further back. I will be further bracing it as I'm adding a box to the front, will run support for under the box sides and the tongue at the same time.
 
Mine is similar, except the tongue is removable from the hitch assembly. I too wanted to be able to jack knife it, and I have had to a few times :). It took a beating on the Rubicon and held fine structurally. I do not plan on adding any other bracing or support. The trailer weighs about 1200lb.
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I think the major component is how far back does the square tube go?

If it's at least 1/4' material and goes back to the next member perpindicular to it...I'd say it should hold whatever you throw at it.
 
I sure would hope it extends underneath the bed, otherwise would be weird and wrong...
So 1/4" Wall thickness enough then?
 
I sure would hope it extends underneath the bed, otherwise would be weird and wrong...
So 1/4" Wall thickness enough then?

Not being a wise ass.....

but thick enough for what?....gravel or camping gear?

Big difference in load per square foot.

I do like your idea about some addtional support though. I'd say for camping gear you'll be more than fine...but I have a habit of going overboard.
 
Not being a wise ass.....

but thick enough for what?....gravel or camping gear?

Big difference in load per square foot.

I do like your idea about some addtional support though. I'd say for camping gear you'll be more than fine...but I have a habit of going overboard.

of course, load matters, indeed.
I was thinking for camping gear.
I should measure it carefully, cuz it might be long enough for a CJ but no so for an 80.
And of course, with additional brackets you'd cut down on turning angle before hitting the truck.


well, at least from the above it sounds like it's not a big no-no to have it sticking out like that.
 
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1/4" thick material is incredibly beefy. For a small camping trailer you should be good so long as the tounge isn't just butt welded in place.
 
what do you think of that tongue?
just cantilevered out like that with no braces.
Better for jackknifing presumably, but do you think this would be sturdy enough (no idea what the wall thickness is, but doubt it's solid)?
What would it take, thickness wise to make this sturdy enough to avoid problems?
Then again, adding a couple of braces would be easy enough...



what are the material dimensions? looks to be 2" maybe 2.5"
(2.5" square 3/16" tubing is much stronger than 2" square 1/4")

how long is it from the pivot point to the front of the trailer?
(the measurement all the way to the front of the lunette)

what will the max trailer weight be?
 
what are the material dimensions? looks to be 2" maybe 2.5"
(2.5" square 3/16" tubing is much stronger than 2" square 1/4")

how long is it from the pivot point to the front of the trailer?
(the measurement all the way to the front of the lunette)

what will the max trailer weight be?


what? you want real numbers?

I'm just after MUDWAGs here... :D






(OK, OK, I just don't know yet... :) )
 
i usually use one of two methods.

one) you take the section modulus and multiply by the yield
strength for A36. that figure should be greater than the max
trailer weight x .5 x the length of the tongue in inches....

two) you load the trailer up with sand bags, old car batteries,
and cinder blocks, then launch it at speed off a sweet jump
while video taping the whole thing. if it hold up you're fine, if
not you're sure to get at least 50,000 views on youtube....
 
two) you load the trailer up with sand bags, old car batteries,
and cinder blocks, then launch it at speed off a sweet jump
while video taping the whole thing. if it hold up you're fine, if
not you're sure to get at least 50,000 views on youtube....

Do it!

And light it on fire right before you do! :lol:
 
Johny Knoxville would do it...





:hillbilly:
 
"Here, hold my beer while I do some testing on my tongue..." :D
 
I have a '66 popup that is now a utility trailer. It has no braces and I''ve loaded a ton on it highway and it is fine. It is 2 1/2" 3/16" and is long enough to jack knife a full size pickup so I'd say you are good to go
 
had a look at it, it goes all the way to the end of the trailer.
Can't tell the thickness though but sounds (as in knock-knock) sturdy...
not too worried. Couple of braces easy to add.
I think it's good.


interestingly, the owner told me a story along the lines of the advantage of the very long bare tongue is that you can jacknife the trailer and if the height is right you can push the trailer sideways with the truck bumper... I would think that would lead to a bent tongue in short order...
 
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any last comments before I buy the dang thing? finally heard back from seller again, took a while, like 2 years... :)

I like the idea of running another tube inside the tongue, elegant and simple...
 

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