Not sure if this tech or chat so I will apologize ahead of time if it is chat. I have been daydreaming about buying a rust free cruiser after my busy season is over in the fall. My question is whether or not I am wasting my time looking for a clean 62 to bring home to Wisconsin. From what I can gather I will be paying a premium for truly rust free trucks, so having it rust out after a couple of years in salt country would be heartbreaking. I am willing to put cash in up front to prevent rust. Are there any worthwhile ways to rust proof a clean truck in order to keep it that way? I don't really want to only drive this hypothetical truck in the summer as that does defeat some of its intended purpose as a safe winter car. Is there such thing as a clean DD in the north or just a pipe dream and another reason to move? I have seen perfect Toyotas from out west start to rust out in one season, granted they were rarely washed, but it is still alarming.
Is "Rust Free" worth it?
- Thread starter mattlock
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Rust free huh. We'll they are out there, but not in this neck of the woods. Best bet is going to be to find one in the Southwest. Even then we are pretty much talking about a 20 y/o truck. But sometimes you get lucky. Buddy of mine just found a very, very clean and rust free 60 in Hudson, WI for under 4k. People were from Arizona.
Is it worth it? To me it would be. It depends on what you have to spend. Add in the shipping costs from the southwest ~$800. I too dream about a rust free truck.
You can POR-15 or Zero rust the whole frame. It would be a lot of time and work but probably worth it overall. Other than that just keep it clean and hope for the best.
Is it worth it? To me it would be. It depends on what you have to spend. Add in the shipping costs from the southwest ~$800. I too dream about a rust free truck.
You can POR-15 or Zero rust the whole frame. It would be a lot of time and work but probably worth it overall. Other than that just keep it clean and hope for the best.
There are cheap ones in the for sale section...other than quarter size on roof where dumb owner (me) scratched with rack and little in gutters..plenty of dents though.
All trucks were once rust free. It's not the truck but environment it lives in that determines what happens to it. If you get a rust free truck and treat it twice year with something you can forestall the inevitable, but sooner or later, some salty water is going to leak into a seam or attack a rock chip and then the fun will start.
Personally, living in the northeast, I would not waste my money on a truly rust free truck--too much heartbreak involved. After nearly twenty years, my truck is showing "typical northeast rust," but it had problems when I got it. If it had been truly rust free, I would be crushed.
Just my. $0.02.
Personally, living in the northeast, I would not waste my money on a truly rust free truck--too much heartbreak involved. After nearly twenty years, my truck is showing "typical northeast rust," but it had problems when I got it. If it had been truly rust free, I would be crushed.
Just my. $0.02.
Rust is part of the character of these trucks; at least that's what I tell myself. The mixture that was used in the past to make steel was very prone to rust, so there's really no escaping it - unless you live in the desert (or dessert, like a very dry, dry cake 
)
I wouldn't worry about it too much, personally.
)I wouldn't worry about it too much, personally.
i think it is worth it if you can keep in garaged, undercoated and washed on a regular basis...but you are still going to get rust, especially being in the midwest.
maybe just trying to find one in which the rust is minimal is the best way to go...
maybe just trying to find one in which the rust is minimal is the best way to go...
rust never sleeps... that is the problem...
Having had both, I think rust free is the way to go. My problem was not with the body but with wiring problems. Fixing coroded wiring is like opening a pandora's box.
Jman said:
My thoughts exactly.
If you are going to *show* your truck or keep it for special occasions, sure, rust free works. I don't mind a bit of rust and a couple of parking lot door dings either.
If it was a *mint* truck I'd be to hesitant to drive it anywhere or moderately wheel it.
Cheers,
Cahil
I think it's worth it, as long as the premium isn't TOO high. You will be able to keep up with the corrosion as it occurs much more easily. And there are lot of other benefits, like being able to work on your truck easier 'cause you don't have every single bolt rusted into the threads, or bad contacts on all your electrical connections. And, it goes witout saying, stay away from rust on the frame no matter what you decide...
Tim
88 fj62 TLCA
Tim
88 fj62 TLCA
Keep in mind that rust free means a vastly different thing to each and every seller.
Rust-free can mean rust that was cleaned up and hidden under bodywork, with or without a rust-binding compound. It can mean "mostly" rust-free, it can mean cutting out rust and replacing with ALL metal or metal/bondo, or it can mean rust-free for "this area."
A periodic browse through ebay will reveal some of these differences.
As to prevention, I've no clue. I try to keep the trucks clean and under cover, but we don't use road chemicals out here. Nor have I owned a truly rust-free vehicle.
Rust-free can mean rust that was cleaned up and hidden under bodywork, with or without a rust-binding compound. It can mean "mostly" rust-free, it can mean cutting out rust and replacing with ALL metal or metal/bondo, or it can mean rust-free for "this area."
A periodic browse through ebay will reveal some of these differences.
As to prevention, I've no clue. I try to keep the trucks clean and under cover, but we don't use road chemicals out here. Nor have I owned a truly rust-free vehicle.
- Thread starter
- #12
Thanks for the feedback I think it will help me. The problem I currently face is that on the one hand I have a really nice running 62 with a very clean, fully functioning interior, on the other I have an exterior that is really rusty, holes ect. The dilemma is whether or not I should continue to improve it or just drive it into the ground. My frame isn't bad, just surface rust. I just can't decide if pouring more cash into this thing is like polishing a turd or could I do everything else first and tackle the body last. I can probably buy all the body panels I need for around 2000 bucks, then figure out some way to get them on. I just don't know what the smart thing to do is.
If rust really pisses you off, move to AZ or NM. That's exactly what I did. My wife's 69 GMC is in "remission" right now and my '70 Challenger that I spent 3 years restoring in the late 80's is dry as a bone....
I got a California Cruiser. No rust. Zero.
Get one that is not rusted and spend the bucks to defend it against the red demons. It is tough to get a truck, spend money on fixes and mods, only to have it rust away...
Mike S
Get one that is not rusted and spend the bucks to defend it against the red demons. It is tough to get a truck, spend money on fixes and mods, only to have it rust away...
Mike S
My 79 "rust free Az" 40 has two spots of rust (just surface) and one two holes in the front drivers side floor panel - and it has been in Arizona for 25 years - the problem was it just sat for four years - water ran down the door into floor panel - and hence two holes - but the 40 as a whole has little to no rust - so I concur - rust means something different to everyone -
- Thread starter
- #16
If I decide to go for rust free I would try to go for something like this assuming it checks out as advertised http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/e...&item=4535338089&rd=1&sspagename=STRK:MEWA:IT
Check out the engine pics, unreal for original. I would need to get those running boards off though. Also, it will probably go for more than my budget, but I said I was daydreaming.
Check out the engine pics, unreal for original. I would need to get those running boards off though. Also, it will probably go for more than my budget, but I said I was daydreaming.
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Is this the IH8RUST forum?
Bought my '84 from the orginal owner last year - it's spent its entire life around Denver. He claims to have washed the wheel wells when he did the truck, which I believe. He's that kind of guy. Rear wheel wells rusted anyway.
Find the most rust-free truck you can & try to keep it that way. Best to get one with the original paint, so you can actually tell.
Bought my '84 from the orginal owner last year - it's spent its entire life around Denver. He claims to have washed the wheel wells when he did the truck, which I believe. He's that kind of guy. Rear wheel wells rusted anyway.
Find the most rust-free truck you can & try to keep it that way. Best to get one with the original paint, so you can actually tell.
By the way...
My shipping from Maryland to the Boston area was only 450 bucks for my rust free rig which was originally from Georgia..
My shipping from Maryland to the Boston area was only 450 bucks for my rust free rig which was originally from Georgia..
I usually only buy vehicles from the south. It is silly to buy 20 year old rusty trucks and put money into them I think. Especially when you can take a little trip and bring back something nice. I go somewhere every summer and bring back as many as I can. Sell some and pay for the ones you want to drive. My 60 that is for sale came from Louisiana and Florida. It is sweet and I wouldn't sell it except I am an idiot and like army trucks more than Crusiers.