Is it worth Waxoyling the 100? (1 Viewer)

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macneill

Rollin’ on 33s
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And is that even a verb?

I'm doing the 60 in a couple of weeks and was thinking why not do the 100 too.

Probably should have done it while new, but can't hurt right?
 
And is that even a verb?

I'm doing the 60 in a couple of weeks and was thinking why not do the 100 too.

Probably should have done it while new, but can't hurt right?


Beats me: What is Waxoyling?
 
Waxoyl (a trade mark of Waxoyl AG, Switzerland) is a rust-preventative fluid which belongs to the general category of "slushing oils". It is commonly used to prolong the life of car chassis and bodywork by excluding water and air from bare metal and by slowing the progress of existing rust using rust inhibitors. The fluid contains waxy particles suspended (not dissolved) in white spirit, which evaporates after application. The suspended nature of the wax means Waxoyl in its pre-application state is a thick opaque liquid. It usually requires warming and thinning in order to apply it using spray or injection equipment. DIY kits are available with a basic pressure can, spraygun and extension probe, but to achieve good spray coverage inside hollow box members, a proper compressed air-powered lance must be used.

The Waxoyl brand name is also used for a car body underseal. The DIY range is sold by Hammerite in the UK, although a professional range is also available direct from Waxoyl in Switzerland.

Dinitrol and Dynax 60 are competing products with similar properties.



I'd say do ittt
 
Good description. Thanks.

I ordered 3 cans from Rover North. Seemed to be the only place that carried it.
 
Hi,
I was thinking to use this kind of product before winter.
When I was in France, a friend has bought a C303 Volvo from UK, it was waxoyled... in summer an odor exaust from the truck and you had to be care with the fluid running out all the body holes (whites clothes prohibited)
Anyway, I would prefer a "staying rust free cruiser"

My questions are:
What the better time to do that ? Now or few week before the snow (and salt)

In winter, with a waxoyled car, do I have to/Can I wash the under of the car or it's better to don't clean and leave the vaxoyl do its job ?

What about wax kind products ?
 
My questions are:
What the better time to do that ? Now or few week before the snow (and salt)
Probably now...the heat of summer will allow the compound to flow more readily into all the nooks and crannies - which is where moisture will accumulate and rust begins. My experience with WaxOyl is that once on the metal it adheres pretty well!

I do an annual Krown oil treatment on my '97 LX 450 in late August here in Ontario (Canada). So far (fingers crossed) no rust in any panels that have had the interior sprayed..although surface rust is evident on running boards and a couple of points around the sunroof (where they don't spray!!).

Unfortunately in the snow/salt belt there isn't much that will stop rust on the exposed undercarriage. Oil treatments get "worn" off quickly by road spray and the hard asphalt type rust treatment will inevitably crack and the crevices hold moisture longer against the metal doing even more damage fwiw.
 
Best stuff I've seen is this tar/oil-based stuff like the compound they use to chip seal streets. It won't wash off even if you powerwash the undercarriage every week.
 
Then it smells like lamb chops the first time you fire it up after applying it? :confused:

3 cans of Waxoyl arrived yesteday. Two I'll put on the 60 this weekend and the third on the 100 when I get a chance.
 
As a long term Land Rover Series guy - yea Waxoyl works. Least the trucks from UK that have been religiously "oyled" hold up markedly better than those w/o. Land Rovers have had light gauge steel box frame since inception - they rust from the inside out, hence the need for Waxoyling.

Does it work better than Lanotec, Boeshield, Lanoshield, CRC Longlife or Corrosion-X? Dunno - most of this stuff is similar. I hafta believe any of the marine or aircraft corrosion inhibitors are as good or better - but no less expensive. They might be available locally tho - RN is the exclusive US supplier now. Waxoyl looks fairly similar to Ziebarts stuff. If you're adventurous (read cheap) theres recipes for homemade "waxoyl" - toilet ring (beeswax), chainsaw oil and turpentine.

Waxoyl makes a wide range of products - including a hard wax thats sprayed over the underside of the vehicles, as well as the cavity wax. You can see the job here - all that hard wax looks like crap - but its a pain to work on afterward.

http://www.rustmaster.co.uk/index_19486.htm

Make sure you get the rear lower tailgate on the 100 - Ive noticed a few rusting on the top seam.

Treat this stuff as flammable - it will light up especially when in aerosol.

Luck
Alac
 
I've noticed quite a bit o' rust in the rear bumper area, especially on my less than 3 year old TJM. :mad:

Guess that's New England winters for ya.
 
I did the homebrew waxoyl last year on the '02. Pressure washed, phosphated the rusty bits and touched up with chassis black before doing it. Looks OK after the winter except the wax holds the dirt like a magnet so it doesn't rinse clean anymore. Sharp edges on the frame and suspension will need attention again.

Back area around the spare tire lift and stock rear bumper had a pretty advanced case of surface rust before I did it. Most bothersome to me was the area immediately around the upper lift gate latch, looks like corrosion spreads from the uncoated latch handle and hardware.

On the plus side, the truck smells like linseed (wife likes it) and my coveralls are now waterproof. ;)
 
Every spring and fall I get under the 100 and use rust arrester and rustoleum paint to repair and cover any rust that might be starting. This has always worked well with my 95 and 99 LC's, kept them looking new on the bottom. Now that more states are using that "salt on steriods" that I read about this winter it is a must to keep ahead of the rust.
 

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