Is it possible?

[flintknapper]

Checking the PHH on my '97 (just bought). I am getting ready to do a radiator flush and wanted to change it out first. The PHH looks brand new...no bulges, cracks, leaks, discoloration. Is it possible someone acutually changed it out before? LC has 108,000 miles on it and I already have the silicone hose and clamps, so I can dive in there if need be. The PHH on there now has a spring type clamp at the block and thin (1/4") metal band with a cotter pin looking thing at the metal hose. Looks suspiciously factory to me but the thing looks perfect. I have a picture of my big fat forearm trying to reach into an area that a snake would have trouble getting to. Someone "push me over the edge" and tell me what I already know......you got the part, everyone should suffer through it once, and then you can have peace of mind knowing that it is new. Right?

 

[landtank]

Sounds factory to me from what I remember. I'd change it out if it were me, but then again I just use the regular hose and not the high tech stuff. 180k seems a long time for it though

 

[flintknapper]

flintknapper

Sounds factory to me from what I remember. I'd change it out if it were me, but then again I just use the regular hose and not the high tech stuff. 180k seems a long time for it though

I have 108,000 miles not (180,000) on the vehicle and it definitely was a garaged soccer mom Cruiser before I got it. Of course I don't know exactly what kind of service it recieved but most of the vehicle looks brand new. I just have my doubts that if it was replaced before... that anyone (even the dealer) would have replaced it with factory type clamps.

 

[Junk]

Could be new. I have OEM there as it was replaced during the last 1FZ-FE replacement.

 

[Rich]

I wouldn't think that any dealer would resuse the cotter pin clamp, especially in that location. In fact, I doubt dealers use cotter pin hose clamps anywhere.

After 5 years and 40K miles mine was a long way from failure, but was starting to bulge, coolant discoloration was apparent on the threads visible on the ends, and after removal and cutting open interior cracking was visible. The cracks were very small, but are the beginning of failure.

Your choice is very simple. Replace when you feel like it at your time and place of choice, or replace it when it fails, wherever that may be. Side of the road in miles from anywhere - been done before!

 

[Safado]

My vote is that it's factory. I've done the replacement on mine with 140k and it had the same factory clamp. There is NO WAY you could get in there and replace the PHH with that style clamp. Just too tight.

It's never been done before, now go out and do it.

 

[IdahoDoug]

Agree it sounds like the original. Those cotter pin clamps are used in factory assembly environments, but it would be impractical these days to use them. As Safedo notes, you're not going to get any kind of tool in where this is to replace a cotter clamp, either. It's common that hoses deteriorate on the inside first, so your clean hose may not look so good on the inside. Change it in the comfort of your own garage and don't be intimidated. It's not nearly as hard as some make it out to be provided you read up on the various excellent methods developed here and elsewhere in the 80 owner community.

DougM

 

[flintknapper]

flintknapper

Agree it sounds like the original. Those cotter pin clamps are used in factory assembly environments, but it would be impractical these days to use them. As Safedo notes, you're not going to get any kind of tool in where this is to replace a cotter clamp, either. It's common that hoses deteriorate on the inside first, so your clean hose may not look so good on the inside. Change it in the comfort of your own garage and don't be intimidated. It's not nearly as hard as some make it out to be provided you read up on the various excellent methods developed here and elsewhere in the 80 owner community.

DougM

O.K. I'm on it first thing in the morning. Thanks for the input!

 

[Gumby]

Good. Mine was looking pretty good from the outside, but when I got it off it was in really bad shape. The cracks on the inside had gotten to the nylon strings and wicked up and down causing it to swell and corrode.

 

[flintknapper]

flintknapper

Good. Mine was looking pretty good from the outside, but when I got it off it was in really bad shape. The cracks on the inside had gotten to the nylon strings and wicked up and down causing it to swell and corrode.

On a little different note...does anyone leave the "prestone" plastic "T" in place on the heater hose when finished flushing the system? I have seen many on this forum advising against it. Presumably because a failure of the "T" could lead to a leak and I am sure that an overheated motor in a Cruiser would be a catastrophic event. The reason for my question is that I have always flushed the cooling systems in my other vehicles religiously and have NEVER had one (T) fail. I know the one on my '70 model Bronco has been there at least 10 years. I am more than willing to follow the advice of those more experienced if there is anything peculiar about the LC that would not make this a good idea. Thanks.

 

[RavenTai]

I have never seen a Prestone "T" fail, but I did not leave mine either it is another part to fail, also most of the 80's heater hoses are preformed not something you can replace with part store bulk heater hose if there ever is a problem like you would on an American truck/car

 

[flintknapper]

I have never seen a Prestone "T" fail, but I did not leave mine either it is another part to fail, also most of the 80's heater hoses are preformed not something you can replace with part store bulk heater hose if there ever is a problem like you would on an American truck/car

Good point!

 

[Safado]

one tip on getting those pins out...mine were a bear.

I threaded the eye with a piece of bailing wire and made a big loop that came out past the skirt. Then just give it a few good tugs and it shoud come out without a problem.

Have fun.

 

[robbie]

If it has the spring clamp and the coter type on the hard pipe it is factory orginal, Junk in a flate rate shop(which the dealer ship is) they would only disconnect the hard pipe at the head (spring clamp) and then reinstall the same hose on the new head when they switch the intake manifold over. Or even if they short blocked it they would of pulled the engine out of the truck, pulled the head with the intake manifold on the head and swaped the whold shebang over at one time. I currently have 2 toyota techs at the shop. They say this is done all the time to save time. So Junk want to bet that that hose has the same miles on it as the truck? later robbie

 

[flintknapper]

fllintknapper

If it has the spring clamp and the coter type on the hard pipe it is factory orginal, Junk in a flate rate shop(which the dealer ship is) they would only disconnect the hard pipe at the head (spring clamp) and then reinstall the same hose on the new head when they switch the intake manifold over. Or even if they short blocked it they would of pulled the engine out of the truck, pulled the head with the intake manifold on the head and swaped the whold shebang over at one time. I currently have 2 toyota techs at the shop. They say this is done all the time to save time. So Junk want to bet that that hose has the same miles on it as the truck? later robbie

Brand new silicone PHH resides where absolutely perfect old hose was. I don't know if the old hose had been changed and someone actually used factory type clamps or if it was the original... but it was in perfect shape inside and out. I wish I had a digital camera to show you. Anyway, someone please tell me that the new one will last forever because it is not a job I wish to do again soon. I am 6'-5" / 250 lbs. and have 14" forearms. You would have laughed to have seen me stuffed up in that wheel well. Got her all flushed and refilled with Toyota red. Checked for sludge in the radiator (clean as a whistle). Thanks for all of the advice I really appreciate it.

 

[Rookie2]

If it makes you feel any better, I just got done replacing starter contacts and plunger this weekend, and the old contacts were bearly grooved, probably good for another 75k. I guess that's the only down side to PM... half of the time you didn't need to do it. Just part of owning a vehicle you don't know the previous maintenance on.


Rookie2

 

[flintknapper]

flintknapper

If it makes you feel any better, I just got done replacing starter contacts and plunger this weekend, and the old contacts were bearly grooved, probably good for another 75k. I guess that's the only down side to PM... half of the time you didn't need to do it. Just part of owning a vehicle you don't know the previous maintenance on.


Rookie2

Please don't get me wrong...I am a very strong advocate of PM. And you are exactly right, you never really know what you have until you've owned it for awhile and gone over it. I adjusted the parking brake today and when I removed the center console (in the shifter area) I found 2 complete ink pens, one top to an ink pen, about .75 cents in change, gum wrappers, 3 hair barrets, a couple of dental floss loops (yuk) and some dog hair. Now I can see how the dog hair could get there, and maybe the dimes....but how the hell did that other stuff get down there? Unless the T-case shifter boot had a hole in it once upon a time then it looks impossible to me! I have a drier that mysteriously devours a sock or a glove once in awhile and I don't understand that either but this was strange! PO was a soccer mom for sure!

 

[Rookie2]

Please don't get me wrong...I am a very strong advocate of PM. And you are exactly right, you never really know what you have until you've owned it for awhile and gone over it.

No.. I definitely think it's the right approach. PHH or starter contacts, neither one are areas you want to take you're chances with. There's just a part of you that wants them to be good and worn out after you gotten in there, so you can kind of pound on your chest a little bit .

Welcome to the forum.


Rookie2