Im looking into removing my tub soon and I was wondering how hard will it be to put everything back together when the frame is blasted and the tub put back on.
Jamie
1984 BJ42......
Jamie
1984 BJ42......
Is it hard to put back together
- Thread starter The Red Camel
- Start date
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me and a couple friends put mine on in about a half an hour with new energy suspension stuff. you just need a couple people to balance and make sure things don't get scratched up. It should be even faster when you have no engine or tranny in ( not that much though)
Tub
The hard part is getting it off. I have done two, you need to get organized by having a place to put
hard top, hood, windshield, doors, fenders, seats, rollbar, gas tank ect....
have to disconect fuel lines, heater lines, wiring harness, speedo cable, e-brake cable ect....
I use boxes and ziplock bags to label and organize pieces and fasteners.
I also dedicate a note pad for diagraming wiring connections, brake/gas/clutch connections ect...
Then you have to break loose rusted body mounts! If you break them off be prepared....
By far the best way to get them loose is to start soaking them with a good penetrating oil... do a search for recomendations. Use an impact gun to remove them... using a ratchet on frozen bolts you will torque
them in half....ask me how I know. the quick, short blows of an impact breaks the rust bond without over streching the metal of the bolt.
If they won't come out with the impact... apply heat.. a pencil torch works best for getting into tight areas.
Heat the nut portion of the body mount... metal expands, rust bond loosens.... expect lots of smoke and some flame... they after all are rubber, soaked in penetrating oil.
the two holding the rear of the tub are the hardest to get at especially with an impact gun... on the one I'm working on now I actually cut a hole in the bottom of the rear crossmember big enough for a 14mm socket to be able to get a straight shot at them. I used a plasme cutter but next time will simply use a hole saw. Hard to use a plasme upside down .... I plan on welding in a short piece (1/4") of tube large enough to get a socket on the mount for future access and to gusset/ clean up the hole and then box in part of the crossmember for strength.
long story short, if you can get it off putting it back is easy. nothing technical, just takes time.
The hard part is getting it off. I have done two, you need to get organized by having a place to put
hard top, hood, windshield, doors, fenders, seats, rollbar, gas tank ect....
have to disconect fuel lines, heater lines, wiring harness, speedo cable, e-brake cable ect....
I use boxes and ziplock bags to label and organize pieces and fasteners.
I also dedicate a note pad for diagraming wiring connections, brake/gas/clutch connections ect...
Then you have to break loose rusted body mounts! If you break them off be prepared....
By far the best way to get them loose is to start soaking them with a good penetrating oil... do a search for recomendations. Use an impact gun to remove them... using a ratchet on frozen bolts you will torque
them in half....ask me how I know. the quick, short blows of an impact breaks the rust bond without over streching the metal of the bolt.
If they won't come out with the impact... apply heat.. a pencil torch works best for getting into tight areas.
Heat the nut portion of the body mount... metal expands, rust bond loosens.... expect lots of smoke and some flame... they after all are rubber, soaked in penetrating oil.
the two holding the rear of the tub are the hardest to get at especially with an impact gun... on the one I'm working on now I actually cut a hole in the bottom of the rear crossmember big enough for a 14mm socket to be able to get a straight shot at them. I used a plasme cutter but next time will simply use a hole saw. Hard to use a plasme upside down .... I plan on welding in a short piece (1/4") of tube large enough to get a socket on the mount for future access and to gusset/ clean up the hole and then box in part of the crossmember for strength.
long story short, if you can get it off putting it back is easy. nothing technical, just takes time.
Take lots of pictures and bag and mark all the bolts and screws. I spent more time finding replacement bolts than the assembly itself.
Kevin
Kevin
- Thread starter
- #5
Im marking everything, the only thing I see now that will be harder then riding a one hump camel is the fire wall, and all the dash toys on this 42.
photos
photos and notes! I've been photographing overall shots and close in detail shots that show how wires are routed etc does not look too difficult depending on your rust level.
Be prepared to snap some things off or strip screws. Heres a tip though thoroughly clean around all screw heads then scribe around to break the paint seal then wire brush over it or use a 3M wheel around the perimeter of the head. Then spray on your liquid wrench also hit the backside of the screw/nut if you can get to it. I do this and if they don't break I spray them leave them another day and go back--dont wait until you have to get it removed go around the vehicle breaking loose all the ones that will come loose then go back to the others another day if you can afford to do that
A stud remover is handy tool if you have to get a stuck bolt out
for screws try turning them in the tightening direction first then once they "break" loosen them, this keeps you from stripping the head in the removal direction
All the previous recommendations seem right on too
Disclaimers:
not valid in all 50 states
your results may vary
A double your work back guarantee applies
photos and notes! I've been photographing overall shots and close in detail shots that show how wires are routed etc does not look too difficult depending on your rust level.
Be prepared to snap some things off or strip screws. Heres a tip though thoroughly clean around all screw heads then scribe around to break the paint seal then wire brush over it or use a 3M wheel around the perimeter of the head. Then spray on your liquid wrench also hit the backside of the screw/nut if you can get to it. I do this and if they don't break I spray them leave them another day and go back--dont wait until you have to get it removed go around the vehicle breaking loose all the ones that will come loose then go back to the others another day if you can afford to do that
A stud remover is handy tool if you have to get a stuck bolt out
for screws try turning them in the tightening direction first then once they "break" loosen them, this keeps you from stripping the head in the removal direction
All the previous recommendations seem right on too
Disclaimers:
not valid in all 50 states
your results may vary
A double your work back guarantee applies
FWIW, I put my tub on all by myself on the 26th...But I have a chain hoist and a tall garage.
I would suggest at least 4 people to help you out.
IH8MUD.com Forum - View Single Post - Lord what have I done now....
I would suggest at least 4 people to help you out.
IH8MUD.com Forum - View Single Post - Lord what have I done now....
