Iron Man Caster Plates

[rockrod]

What a pain in the arse! Not the plates themselves, but the truck. Every bolt was a 6 ft cheater bar to break loose.

not fun.

Almost done though, just need to do a little more clearance with the soft wheel grinder around the weld on the pass side housing and then tighten it up.

See ya later MAF caster plates. No longer will I bang my head on them.

 

[devildogcruiser25]

What a pain in the arse! Not the plates themselves, but the truck. Every bolt was a 6 ft cheater bar to break loose.

not fun.

Almost done though, just need to do a little more clearance with the soft wheel grinder around the weld on the pass side housing and then tighten it up.

See ya later MAF caster plates. No longer will I bang my head on them.

Will you post some pics of where you had to grind them?

 

[VTrocker]

rock rod- i'm interested to know if you have contact with your drag link and radius arms once you have the plates installed and the truck back on the ground. i performed the same swap a few weeks ago and had to do some very slight grinding on the radius arms... i also have OME yellow caster bushings.

devil dog- i meant to get some pics for that other thread, but did not. but once you have the radius arms off, you install the top and rear bolt through the axle brackets and the plates, and through the lower holes of the new plates, you will see where the axle bracket interferes with installing the lower bolt. mark this area with a marker, and grind the axle bracket to clear this area. i will try to get some pics up.....

 

[devildogcruiser25]

rock rod- i'm interested to know if you have contact with your drag link and radius arms once you have the plates installed and the truck back on the ground. i performed the same swap a few weeks ago and had to do some very slight grinding on the radius arms... i also have OME yellow caster bushings.

devil dog- i meant to get some pics for that other thread, but did not. but once you have the radius arms off, you install the top and rear bolt through the axle brackets and the plates, and through the lower holes of the new plates, you will see where the axle bracket interferes with installing the lower bolt. mark this area with a marker, and grind the axle bracket to clear this area. i will try to get some pics up.....

That would be awesome, I want to try and attack this project tomorrow.

 

[fjc8871]

I just installed the ironman caster plates and had to grind the radius arms. Tested clearence and need to grind more.

 

[devildogcruiser25]

This thread is useless with out pics!!!

 

[rockrod]

i will get some pics later. I suspect the arms will need a little massaging.

 

[Rwhat]

What a pain in the arse! Not the plates themselves, but the truck. Every bolt was a 6 ft cheater bar to break loose.

not fun.

Almost done though, just need to do a little more clearance with the soft wheel grinder around the weld on the pass side housing and then tighten it up.

See ya later MAF caster plates. No longer will I bang my head on them.

Did you happen to break the nut loose or the head of the bolts loose? The nuts have the serrations that make it a PITA to wrench off. Don't ask me how i know

 

[rockrod]

Well. No pics. Sorry I just needed to get it done so that I could drive it tomorrow. I ended up grinding the outer passenger side plate at bit to make room for the housing weld. Seemed easier than removing the weld. A ratchet strap came in handy to pull the axle back to line up the bolts.

The tie rod is rubbing the arms a little but not enough to cause a problem. I suppose I can go back and clearance the arm a little but it's not enough of a issue to worry about. It might be when the suspension twists though.

Test drive was good. I ended up with about 2 degrees more caster than I had with the MAF brackets so it drives tighter down the road and is less of a wanderer.

The best part? Those brackets are gone now. Definitely cleaner underneath.

Those flanged nuts are ridiculous. They bite hard and it took a cheater to bust them loose. Just getting them loose took most of the time. Plus the e locker housing makes it a tight fit for tools on the passenger side.

 

[SiRaDuDe]

Those flanged nuts are ridiculous. They bite hard and it took a cheater to bust them loose. Just getting them loose took most of the time. Plus the e locker housing makes it a tight fit for tools on the passenger side.

(Pardon my english = dont know what a flanged nut is, but...)
If you are talking about the nuts that are like ribbed on the contact face.

You are NOT supposed to turn those to loosen, you are supposed to turn the other side (bolt side) MUCH EASIER!!!

 

[warpdriv]

Here's a pic of the notch: https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/403256-another-texas-ls1-swap-19.html#post7273231

Make sure you torque things to 130ft/lb.

 

[rockrod]

(Pardon my english = dont know what a flanged nut is, but...)
If you are talking about the nuts that are like ribbed on the contact face.

You are NOT supposed to turn those to loosen, you are supposed to turn the other side (bolt side) MUCH EASIER!!!

well......i loosened those nuts.

oh well.