Inverter question

[arthuritis17]

I have a question concerning how I can connect things to an inverter. I currently have a 400W Xantrex inverter that is converting DC battery power to AC to power some lights in a barn. Now, I also want to install a fan in the barn to provide cooling for animals. The problem: the fan does not have a plug coming form it - it just has a hot, neutral and ground wire. Since my inverter is not one that can be hardwired to accept individual leads (as above), my only alternative is to attach the hot, neutral, and ground leads from the fan to a electrical plug, then plug into the inverter. I could also strip the insulation from a three prong extension cord, and hardwire the leads from the fan to this, then plug the other end of the extension cord into the inverter.

Is any of this OK to do? While it certainly is not difficult to "jerryrig" a plug as described above, I'm not sure it's exactly legal by electrical code. Then again, I guess the "barn electrical police" aren't going to come around looking. However, I'm not sure there's a better way. I looked around for hard-wired inverters, and I can't find any, nor do they generally come in less than 1000 watts (which would be too much of a drain on my battery system).

Any suggestions?

Thanks,
arthuritis17

 

[george_tlc]

I "think" that given you are not connected to the grid (running from battery) that there are no legalities in terms of you wiring things up. Obviously you don't want to electrocute someone (yourself included)...

Splicing the 3 leads from the fan to a plug that you then plug into the inverter is just fine. BUT, do note that there is no "ground" in this case... unless you drive a big copper stake from say the battery -ve into the ground (a few feet in) and then use the third prong on the plug. That of course begs the question of whether the inverter has the 3rd prong actually connected to its battery -ve input...

It is quite possible that the 3rd prong on the inverter is only there to allow 3 prong devices to be plugged in and beyond that the 3rd prong just floats. Never really looked into the guts of a typical inverter.

Edit:
Ok on a bit more reading, it is very likely that the ground prong in the inverter is tied to the chassis of the inverter and to the Battery -ve input. Apparently the NEC (national electric code) requires that for fixed inverter (and generator) installations that the chassis/neutral of the inverter (generator) be wired to ground (copper stake in ground would take care of that). This would apply to your battery/inverter/fan in your barn.

cheers,
george.

 

[arthuritis17]

Thanks. Actually, the inverter is grounded. The whole system is powered by a Kyocera 130watt solar panel delivering charge to two 100amp/hr solar batteries, and all electrical boxes and metal devices in the system are grounded via conducting wire to the grounding rod.

Actually, what I would be doing is connecting the leads of the fan to Romex 14/2 NM cable (which has a ground wire), then the other end of the Romex cable would be converted to the electrical plug.

arthuritis17

 

[george_tlc]

Well, then there's no problems, imo. Just wire the plug and plug it in, no different than if it was a 'real' mains installation.

cheers,
george.

 

[Bogo]

Just wire the plug on.

My question is your inverter large enough to handle startup currents? On fans, consider barn ceiling fans if you have the overhead room. I know FarmTek has some that are low wattage.

My second question is why aren't you running direct 12VDC lights? Much more efficient and you won't loose the 10 to 20% power loss in the inverter. There are 12VDC powered ballasts for regular fluorescent bulbs. Google on "12VDC fluorescent light ballast t8" without the quotes. If you decide to put in fluorescent lamps, get t8 or t5 bulbs. The larger in diameter t12 bulbs are slated for discontinuation very soon by regulation. T8 and t5 bulbs are also more efficient.

LED lights are still expensive, but the price for excellent output is continually dropping. Power efficiencies are similar to high output fluorescent lamps.