Hey folks, just wanted to pop in and introduce myself. Name is Ted and I live in Georgia, USA. I'm a first time LC owner. I have owned several project cars in my life but this will be my first LC. Also in my stable is an 2002 4Runner (N180). I purchased this one from a local for what I felt was a fair price considering its history and condition. It has a little body rot and non-structural under-body rust (primarily concentrated behind the rear bumper. The engine was rebuilt 20k miles ago by a shop in TN (paperwork was included). The one interesting bit about it, which I imagine is the primary reason I got it for such a deal, is that it has a rebuilt title. What is interesting about that is that the rebuild was in 1996, just two years in to the vehicles life. Despite this, it's been on the road as a daily driver / project car for the last 30 years. Assuming those first two years saw the average American annual mileage of 15k miles, that means it saw another 220k (~8k/year average) over the last three decades, putting my mind at ease about any issues lingering from the rebuild. Unfortunately, the details of the event that lead to the need for a rebuilt title on a 2 year old truck like this have been lost to time but I have to imagine it was fairly substantial for insurance to do such on a relatively expensive, new-ish vehicle.
The truck is not without its problems, obviously, but I felt that they were openly disclosed and the price reflected the condition fairly.
The Bad:
Been working on a prioritized plan to tackle the issues starting from those that are critical for safety or to pass the rebuild inspection get the GA tag. Here's what I've got so far:
Anyway! If you made it this far, thanks for reading. I've attached some pictures. Enjoy!
The truck is not without its problems, obviously, but I felt that they were openly disclosed and the price reflected the condition fairly.
The Bad:
- A/C non-functional (but no seized). Seller said they never tried to diagnose it and I have no reason to not believe them based on how transparent they were about everything.
- Suspension completely clapped out. Mounts are still solid. Easy, if pricy fix. OME 2" kit ordered.
- O2 sensor needs replacement
- Oil level sensor is broken (dummy light always illuminated despite proper oil levels)
- Rockers are rusted through in places. I'm planning to cut them out and replace them completely anyway
- Rear end is very rotted out. The rear bumper cover is held on in places with zip ties due to factory mount points missing. Confirmed the best I could that the rot does not extend in to anything structural, though, and was reassured by a local fabricator that cutting out the rot and building a replacement bumper was feasible without much trouble.
- Center brake light is out. (I've already diagnosed it as a break in the wiring at the hatch joint).
- Radio is non-functional (don't care, I don't listen to music when I drive)
- Drivers side window is off the track and fickle due to broken plastic guide
- Engine was pulled, stripped, machined and rebuilt 20k miles ago (paperwork included)
- Transmission is smooth as silk
- Interior is in what I would consider "Fair/Good" (minor tears in the upholstery, carpet is mint, door cards are in tact, dash is un-damaged, jump seats are included and working)
- No fluids are leaking and all fluid levels are good and regularly and recently changed.
- Knuckles were just rebuilt by the seller
- Low range works without issue and smooth
- Starts easy, no smoke, idles smooth
- Several aftermarket accessories were included
- Rhino rack
- Brand new, unused 270 awning
- Nearly new 35s mounted on OE wheels
- Diff breathers (included but not installed)
- Intake snorkle installed
- Front brush guard installed with LED flood lights (mounted but not currently wired in)
Been working on a prioritized plan to tackle the issues starting from those that are critical for safety or to pass the rebuild inspection get the GA tag. Here's what I've got so far:
- Fix suspension (OME 2" kit as mentioned before)
- Fix center brake light (repair wiring and rebuild OE light bar, known to be non-functional)
- Replace O2 sensor and make sure CEL clears (needed for inspection)
- Find a way to "make the oil level light go away". This is still TBD and I'm open to suggestions. The replacement sensors I've found online are $$$ and I'm knowledgeable with electrical circuit design so I'm thinking of reverse engineering the signal and "faking" the signal to turn off the light unless there's a simpler solution (I haven't thought much about this yet, I am probably over-complicating it).
- Repair/replace window guide
- Diagnose and fix A/C before it gets too hot this summer
Anyway! If you made it this far, thanks for reading. I've attached some pictures. Enjoy!
