Introduce Yourself

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Hello! My name is Alberto and I am very new to the Cruiser scene, and am being slowly but surely indoctrinated by my Cruiserhead roommate, who after about 3 solid years of cajoling, encouraging, and mocking of my current transportation has converted me to purchasing a Cruiser, and my taste lends towards an fj60 or 62; the fun catch is that I am in the market to purchase one (preferrably within AZ) within the next week. Am looking for any realistic leads, thanks all! I'm sure once I am an owner I will be on the forum much, much more.
 
Introducing

New to the az site. Just bought a 96 cruiser. Learning a lot from these forums, amazing how much info is here. I'm looking for a cruiser mechanic in the Phoenix Area (east valley preferred) I'm not rich but want the job done right. I have a really bad noise when turning. The quiet gentle clicks start in the morning and after about 10 miles, during turning left or right the clicks turn in to a very loud clicking/knocking/popping that gets the attention of everyone in the parking lot. I've read up on the knuckle rebuilds and birfs. I really would like to find out if this could just be a very negleted past due knuckle rebuild and maybe birf replacements. I'd love to try and do this myself if possible but maybe best to take it to a professional to have done right. Any thoughts, suggestions. I would appreciate any advice.
 
New to the az site. Just bought a 96 cruiser. Learning a lot from these forums, amazing how much info is here. I'm looking for a cruiser mechanic in the Phoenix Area (east valley preferred) I'm not rich but want the job done right. I have a really bad noise when turning. The quiet gentle clicks start in the morning and after about 10 miles, during turning left or right the clicks turn in to a very loud clicking/knocking/popping that gets the attention of everyone in the parking lot. I've read up on the knuckle rebuilds and birfs. I really would like to find out if this could just be a very negleted past due knuckle rebuild and maybe birf replacements. I'd love to try and do this myself if possible but maybe best to take it to a professional to have done right. Any thoughts, suggestions. I would appreciate any advice.

Welcome!:cheers:

First thing, preferably before it driven, ASAP. Check/fill the knuckles to the proper level with moly grease.
 
It's pretty simple, if the birf is clicking it maybe dry, if so, every time it is driven it is getting accelerated wear. It (they) may already be junk, but will be for sure if they continue to be abused. If they are quiet when greased, it is a pretty good indicator that they still have life, good data to have before taking it apart. The proper level is ~1/2-3/4, not packed full.

Grease level checking: https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-...e-thinking-gear-oil-not-soup.html#post6831273

https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-...l-under-turning-acceleration.html#post6804189

Pic of the fill plug (it is removed, so the hole) and steering angle to do the job a few posts down: https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-...e-thinking-gear-oil-not-soup.html#post6831362
 
I did put maybe 1/2 a tube in each side through the inspection hole the other day and though it did seem more quiet and smooth turning the loud knocking came back in the usually amount of time. It almost feels like the tires are missing there thread. Another thing, I have to make a sharp turn in to my carport so the wheel is all the way to the right. When I stop and put the car in Park I can see and feel the right side of the car start to come down bit by bit. It's like the shock is hung up on something or something is holding that shock up and gradually coming back down when I stop. Could something inside the axle be causing this? I really just need to take it somewhere. Any suggestions?
 
The big nuts (Lower center in the pic) on the bottom of the knuckle are the ones you want to check, need to be tight ~70ft/lb. Two things about the pic: It has the beginnings of birf soup, the axle seal is leaking, causing the mess. One of the studs/nuts is missing, broken off, there should be four.

birf_soup.jpg
 
Thanks, I'll check tomorrow morning. My truck has what looks like old dried birf soup outside the ball. Could it be possible that there just isn't anything left in there to make soup and how scary would that be. I'll check everything we talked about in the morning and most likely see about maybe having you take a quick look when you're not busy. Thanks again.
 
Hi all

I recently relocated to Tucson from Chile and enjoy beiong back in the US

Last week I aquired FJ60 from the Western Slope of CO, 163,000 mi and 2 CO owners, no rust. Pretty much Stock OME springs and 33's so it goes pretty slow down the road.

I grew up with a 60 (Dad's) and he still drives his. Also had a 80 about 12 years ago but sold when I was tansfered to Peru.

My new 60 won't pass AZ smog - all the original equipment is there and hooked up. It Failed on both HC and CO. Load and idle.
The PO had a carb kit intall by Safari LTD about a year ago, Valves adjust about 2 years ago, all les than 5000 miles ago.
Spark plugs look good - not too black. Truck runs ok.
Any ideas where to start? Any recommendations of a cruser mechanic in Tucson?

Thanks and look forward to meeting the group in the future.
Checks in the mail for the shirt.
DSC03658.jpg
 
Welcome, nice looking rig!:cheers:

...
My new 60 won't pass AZ smog - all the original equipment is there and hooked up. It Failed on both HC and CO. Load and idle.
...

What were the numbers, how far off? Most times, proper carb and timing adjustments will get it, alcohol helps.
 
Numbers

My numbers were:

HC Loaded reading (35mph) 269 - limit 220 ppm
CO Loaded reading 6.98 - limit 1.20 percent
HC idle reading 950 - limit 220 ppm
CO idel reading 7.17 - limit 1.20 percent

Thanks for any advice
 
Hi all

I recently relocated to Tucson from Chile and enjoy beiong back in the US

Last week I aquired FJ60 from the Western Slope of CO, 163,000 mi and 2 CO owners, no rust. Pretty much Stock OME springs and 33's so it goes pretty slow down the road.

I grew up with a 60 (Dad's) and he still drives his. Also had a 80 about 12 years ago but sold when I was tansfered to Peru.

My new 60 won't pass AZ smog - all the original equipment is there and hooked up. It Failed on both HC and CO. Load and idle.
The PO had a carb kit intall by Safari LTD about a year ago, Valves adjust about 2 years ago, all les than 5000 miles ago.
Spark plugs look good - not too black. Truck runs ok.
Any ideas where to start? Any recommendations of a cruser mechanic in Tucson?

Thanks and look forward to meeting the group in the future.
Checks in the mail for the shirt.
DSC03658.jpg

That is a great looking 60! My favorite color.
 
New LC owner

I just bought a 97 LC (244k miles, not a locker) from the original owner in the Cave Creek area. It seemed like quite a deal, he was asking $4200 on Craig's List, wound up paying $3500. Blue book for fair is $5200, but this is not quite that nice. The biggest problem is the interior is just worn down, so I have been cleaning and fixing odds and ends (see list below).

My goal with this purchase is to get my feet wet with a LC and if I enjoy it, I would consider putting much more money into this truck, or buying something nicer. I like the idea of having a Land Cruiser, just not sure I am going to go offroading enough to justify the expense. This forum and this group contain an incredible wealth of information and I get the feeling that no matter what goes wrong, the answer will be here somewhere, although sometimes that answer will require big $$$.

I had an inspection done by the dealer, but have not been impressed with their work. I would like to find a trustworthy mechanic to look things over. I see a great checklist available from the Slee newbie guide, but I don't trust myself yet to do a good job inspecting all the items. Any advice? I have seen Theil and Toyspecialists recomended, but not in the last 2 years. Are they still the best places to go? Is there a specific person I should ask for?


Repairs so far:
DS mirror loose
Hood lift struts
rear windows off track
replaced DS window motor
clean blower motor fan, clean master switch contacts and add auto up
AC charge, remove brush guard
replace burned bulbs, window washer (had to bypass diverter valve)
replaced air filter to MAF hose after breaking it checking air filter condition
replaced battery
replaced driver door latch (after brief entrapment)
removed 3 locking lugs
broke 1 locking lug in place
 
I just bought a 97 LC (244k miles, not a locker) from the original owner in the Cave Creek area. It seemed like quite a deal, he was asking $4200 on Craig's List, wound up paying $3500. Blue book for fair is $5200, but this is not quite that nice. The biggest problem is the interior is just worn down, so I have been cleaning and fixing odds and ends (see list below).

My goal with this purchase is to get my feet wet with a LC and if I enjoy it, I would consider putting much more money into this truck, or buying something nicer. I like the idea of having a Land Cruiser, just not sure I am going to go offroading enough to justify the expense. This forum and this group contain an incredible wealth of information and I get the feeling that no matter what goes wrong, the answer will be here somewhere, although sometimes that answer will require big $$$.

I had an inspection done by the dealer, but have not been impressed with their work. I would like to find a trustworthy mechanic to look things over. I see a great checklist available from the Slee newbie guide, but I don't trust myself yet to do a good job inspecting all the items. Any advice? I have seen Theil and Toyspecialists recomended, but not in the last 2 years. Are they still the best places to go? Is there a specific person I should ask for?


Repairs so far:
DS mirror loose
Hood lift struts
rear windows off track
replaced DS window motor
clean blower motor fan, clean master switch contacts and add auto up
AC charge, remove brush guard
replace burned bulbs, window washer (had to bypass diverter valve)
replaced air filter to MAF hose after breaking it checking air filter condition
replaced battery
replaced driver door latch (after brief entrapment)
removed 3 locking lugs
broke 1 locking lug in place

Welcome! Is it the white one?:cheers:
 
New to AZ

Hey guys,

My name's Dave Lee and I just started at Honeywell in Tempe a few weeks ago. Looking to buy a place in Ahwatukee or maybe Chandler so my family can join me. Coming from Utah where I've been a member of Wasatch Cruisers for a few years.

Our current Cruiser is this stock '98 Hundy. I have owned 5-6 FJ40s over the years, just selling my last one in March (pictured). I'm always peeking in backyards and scouring farmers' fields for my next 40 project.

Looking forward to running some desert trails and meeting the members of the infamous CSC.

Cheers,
Dave

PS--looking for a shop to install an isolated 7-pin harness and trailer brake. Suggestions in the PHX area greatly appreciated.

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Welcome to AZ and CSC!

I recommend Lewis Hitches in Chandler for any hitch, trailer, or wiring service.

80 East Highland Street
Chandler, AZ 85225-8426
(480) 786-1516
 
Nice looking cruisers, Lee

Welcome, check out the Friday meet thread (once a month) for the CSC group.
 
hi

HI iam Lui live in maricopa city ihave a fj40 78 having some carburator problems doyou know a good mechanic in casa grande or maricopa?
 

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