Intro and Park Neutral Position Switch Test Question

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Apr 2, 2020
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Inland Northwest
Hello all, Quick intro: I knew nothing (and still no very little) about Land Cruiser until about this time last year when I began to think about some kind of off road vehicle again. Several folks said I should look into Land Cruisers (which I had overlooked due to Toyota tax/general price/just ignorance) and long story short last summer I wound up with a 2000 Land Cruiser with about 240k miles on the odometer. As it sits now, vehicle is pretty stock other than OME suspension. I have tried to work on it as time/mechanical aptitude (which isn't much)/tools allow and this brings me to my current situation:

Last week I drove the car, parked it, and when I returned it started up fine. As soon as I started rolling in reverse the VSC/TRAC lights came on. I noticed somepoint thereafter the "P" gear indicator light is now out. The "D" light has been out since the car was purchased by me; however, the other gear position lights still work fine. When I start the car; the VSC/TRAC lights cycle on/off as normal, but once I put it into "R" or "D" and roll slightly the VSC/TRAC lights come back on. I scanned the cruiser and I got codes C1207, C1223, and C1241. As I don't have a scanner I then cleared the codes, started/stopped the car and put it through the gears/drove a bit to see what codes came back on. Only C1207 returned (not most scientific approach I know...). I tried a new IGN 1 relay with no change to lights.

I have now removed the Park Neutral Position Switch clip/harness and have tried jumping the red/blue terminal with the green/white terminal to see if the "p" light illuminates with the key in the "on" position. It does not. When I use my test light to check for power at the red/blue wire at the clip/harness I don't get it to illuminate (or in any of the other ones). When plugged in, the vehicle starts (knock on wood) everytime with the transmission in park.

FOR THE TL,DR CROWD HERE IS MY QUESTION: Is there a better way for me to test the Park Neutral Position Switch? I am trying to determine if I need a new switch or if the "P" gear indicator light is bad in the dash before tearing into/replacing possible both items (or if something else entirely is the problem).

Thanks for any help, and thanks for the many informative posts I have already read here (been lurking since I started looking seriously at land cruisers).
 
You’re gonna hate me for asking this, but did you put in a new P bulb yet?

A few guys in this thread (among other threads) had similar issue that was the result of the P bulb burning out:VSC Trac and VSC Off lights both on
 
You’re gonna hate me for asking this, but did you put in a new P bulb yet?

No hate, and no I haven't yet. Just trying to check switch before I tear into dash and replace the bulb (then of course I have to decide do I stick with stock bulbs or swap out to LED.... decisions decisions!)
 
Okay, so I found a terminal with power and jumped from there to the green/white but still no "p" bulb was illuminated in the on or crank position of the ignition. However, I jumped from the terminal with power to the "2" lamp and then illuminated with the ignition in the crank position. Looks like I am replacing the "P" bulb! Now off to read about LED replacements more to see if I go that route while I am in there.
 
You mentioned the "D" light...be aware that many have removed the light since the oem version is like a little search light when driving at night. It's aimed right at your face.
 
Little update....

I replaced the "P" bulb (and others...) with LED lights this evening. Fired the cruiser up and I still got the VSC/TRAC lights to come on once I put it in drive. Should I plan on getting the park neutral position switch replaced at this point or diag further? I don't have my own code reader; so I can't get any codes read till tomorrow.
 
Little update....

I replaced the "P" bulb (and others...) with LED lights this evening. Fired the cruiser up and I still got the VSC/TRAC lights to come on once I put it in drive. Should I plan on getting the park neutral position switch replaced at this point or diag further? I don't have my own code reader; so I can't get any codes read till tomorrow.
Is your CDL unlocked? Is CEL on? Could now be the LED bulbs causing it. I’d try replacing with a regular incandescent bulb and see what happens. Additionally, you might need a zero-point calibration. Also check battery voltage. If, after all those things, code c1207 is still present, then yes you might have a faulty P/N switch.
 
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I had the same issue. Ended up being a fuse. I can’t remember what one it was, I’ll try to dig up my thread.

edit.

probably not the same issue. I forgot, my main issue was the speedo not working. This was after doing some work on the shifter. I had no gear indication at all, and once in Drive, downshifting didn’t do anything.

 
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Alright, I had a quick second so I jumped the terminals in the diagnostic port but the VSC light just seems to be rapidly flashing without any pauses... I read the thread JunkCrzr linked and it seems there should be some kind of pause in the VSC flashing but I can't see it. Should I just try resetting the yaw/decel sensors anyway? It hasn't been done since the OME lift was put on last fall.

Also, checked battery voltage this morning after I tinkered with the cluster and such last night; voltage read 12.37.. I had to make a short drive to pick up some project items for the house and when I got home the voltage was 12.54; I'll get an alternator reading later.. maybe I'll just try a new battery prior to pulling the cluster again; battery is from 2016 IIRC. I plan to try and get out in the boondocks this year; might as well not worry about a battery in poor condition.
 
Alright, I had a quick second so I jumped the terminals in the diagnostic port but the VSC light just seems to be rapidly flashing without any pauses... I read the thread JunkCrzr linked and it seems there should be some kind of pause in the VSC flashing but I can't see it. Should I just try resetting the yaw/decel sensors anyway? It hasn't been done since the OME lift was put on last fall.

Also, checked battery voltage this morning after I tinkered with the cluster and such last night; voltage read 12.37.. I had to make a short drive to pick up some project items for the house and when I got home the voltage was 12.54; I'll get an alternator reading later.. maybe I'll just try a new battery prior to pulling the cluster again; battery is from 2016 IIRC. I plan to try and get out in the boondocks this year; might as well not worry about a battery in poor condition.
Are those voltages with engine off or on? Low either way - Should be around 12.7 off and 14.1 on. Also check under load (head lights on or something) - If it drops below 12 under load then alternator is an issue. Nevertheless, if you lifted and didn’t do zero-point calibration afterwards, then doing so now certainly would not hurt and can only be beneficial.
 
Quick update for anyone else dealing with this.. The VSC lights being triggered was, in fact, caused by the burned out P bulb (and then the replacement LED bulb I initially installed). I bought 5 new OEM bulbs from Toyota and the cruiser is now happy. I kept LED's in almost all the other bulb locations (didn't replace trac lights/high beam lights/few others with them) including center console lights.

I can't say I am very happy about the LED's on the right half of my cluster, though. They seem kinda faint/uneven light distribution; not sure if/when I will replace them and/or with what.

Thanks to all who helped out. Fixed a broken wire from sending unit, got a new key/programmed it, cleaned MAF sensor, flushed PS again, this week will probably sew up broken seat seams. If I keep the cruiser long enough I'll get new leather put on the seats in a year or two; the $150 I was quoted to fix both broken seams correctly from a local place doesn't seem worth the money on worn 20 year old leather.
 

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