Internal wiring of BJ40/BJ42/HJ42 glow relay (Manual glow) (1 Viewer)

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.... I believe your 24V system draws around half that (20 amps).....

For the 3rd time in 6 mths my glow plug relay shorted out causing the batteries to fry. I've taken the relay apart, cleaned it up, and applied dielectric grease to the contacts too. Does anyone know what the amperage requirement is for my glow plugs? Thinking of installing an inline fuse to the circuit off the high side battery for protection. Application is for a 1981 BJ42 24v 3B.

Hi Noey.

Sorry to hear that you're back to the original problem.

You should be running 20.5V plugs and their current rating is 5.5A each. So I was pretty close with my estimate of 20A before. (5.5 x4 = 22A)

From the 1980 B-series engine manual:
GPcurrent.jpg

But beware. That figure (5.5A each) is for when they are glowing brightly.

When first turned on (and cold) they draw more than double that. (So replacing the fusible link with a fuse that'll do what you want won't be simple.)

:beer:
GPcurrent.jpg
 
Hi Noey.

Sorry to hear that you're back to the original problem.

You should be running 20.5V plugs and their current rating is 5.5A each. So I was pretty close with my estimate of 20A before. (5.5 x4 = 22A)

From the 1980 B-series engine manual:
View attachment 679847

But beware. That figure (5.5A each) is for when they are glowing brightly.

When first turned on (and cold) they draw more than double that. (So replacing the fusible link with a fuse that'll do what you want won't be simple.)

:beer:

Thanks again for your help here LostM!

This is what I'm leaning towards http://bluesea.com/productline/overview/127
It can accept 30-80 amp fuses. If the max amp draw is possibly more than double as you mentioned, do you think a 60-70 amp fuse should be fine to run the circuit and also protect the batteries? The local marine shop here sells this product and has 40, 60, and 70 amp fuses in stock. I would install the fuse block between the battery and the glow plug relay, mounting it in the engine bay area. That way if the relay got sticky again, I could quickly clean her up on the trail and still retain battery voltage (being hopeful), and just carry some spare fuses.

I'm going 4wheeling next weekend and would hate to fry the batteries deep in the bush. Luckily when this issue happened in the 3 times that it did, the 40 was always on the driveway at home!

On a side note, I was told by my local Toyota dealer that my glow plug relay part # 28610-46040 is obsolete. Fortunately (and just a few minutes ago), a member here has located a part # 28610-46041 that supersedes my current one and is available (better than dealer price too! about $130 cdn taxes incl) so that's good news. Dealer confirmed this part to be available too but at a rediculous price (about $395 cdn taxes incl)!

Thoughts?
 
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.....This is what I'm leaning towards http://bluesea.com/productline/overview/127
It can accept 30-80 amp fuses. If the max amp draw is possibly more than double as you mentioned, do you think a 60-70 amp fuse should be fine to run the circuit and also protect the batteries? ...

I can't see how the fuse (once you've found the one with the smallest-rating that doesn't blow during preheat) is going to be able to tell the difference between "normal preheat" and "preheating stuck on indefinitely". (If it doesn't blow during normal preheat then unfortunately it also won't blow with the preheating stuck on indefinitely.)

In other words, the only advantage I can see here (in respect of protecting your batteries) of having the fuse is that you can remove it easily to completely disable your preheating.

So I think your best solution is working to make your preheat system switch off reliably. (Mine has never malfunctioned in 33 years so I think Toyota did well enough in their design.)

Meanwhile I'd keep a close eye on the glow controller whenever you start up your vehicle to ensure the preheating is never stuck on.


... Fortunately (and just a few minutes ago), a member here has located a part # 28610-46041 that supersedes my current one and is available so that's good news...

Fitting that sounds like a good solution to me :clap:
 
Yeah you're right LostM regarding the fuse. Probably a switch would be a better option I guess. I was thinking the problem being a short circuit instead. I'm going to reclean the current relay and order another one for the future.

Thanks for your input.
 
When my glow plug relay on my '79 BJ40 stuck I filed the points with a diamond nail file and then polished them with Crocus cloth. The relay has been perfectly fine since.
 
Anyone know what brand/type of connector Toyota used for these relays? I'm interested in sourcing the white plastic three pin, both halves.
 
So is there anyone out there able to post up wiring pics showing how the superglow system works in a 1983/84 BJ42 or similar vehicle? What the heck - Please post up pics of ANY BJ/HJ superglow wiring? Why not add to my confusion and send me over the brink and into the depths of complete lunacy!:D:D
I haven't finished the thread yet, but I have an AUS (factory original as far as I can tell) 1984 BJ42 12v that I can take pictures of if it is still relevant for the discussion. Just let me know.
 
I haven't finished the thread yet, but I have an AUS (factory original as far as I can tell) 1984 BJ42 12v that I can take pictures of if it is still relevant for the discussion. Just let me know. Here is the documentation from the repair manual for the system and for me page 8-3 is the most important. Also, on 8-6 fig. 8-14 it talks about what the ST terminal is for (I guess) since it states that, "When the starter switch is turned to the START position, voltage should register at the ST terminal."

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Internal wiring of BJ40/BJ42/HJ47 glow relay (Manual glow)

Hey. Let's have a "free-for-all" on the subject of the glow/start wiring that was fitted to diesel cruisers produced from around 1977 to 1983 that are "manual glow" (as opposed to "superglow") and are "with EDIC". The most common models affected here are the BJ40, BJ41, BJ42, and the HJ47. (Perhaps the HJ45 too - but I never hear much about those cruisers on the 2 forums I frequent.)

By "free-for- all", I mean a "no-holds-barred" discussion where anyone can say how they think the glow/start system on these cruisers was REALLY wired by the factory and no-one will get offended. - In other words - I'm after what you think the "as-built" wiring really was.

I'm starting this separate thread because I note the discussion occuring in GregFrench's current thread. But I'm reluctant to enter that one because I don't want to divert its course. And the last time Greg sort help, we ended up discussing too many sidetrack issues (totally my fault - I know) that were unrelated to his vehicle or to his particular problem. And my "staying out" allows a fresh approach to be taken there which may well be successful. (I'm thinking of the previous thread's failure to solve Greg's "glow system issues".)

But at the same time, I see "the as-built status of our glow/start wiring" (including the internal wiring of the glow relay) as an important issue to thrash out (and if possible to gain consensus on).

Anyway here is my glow plug relay (lefthand one):

View attachment 286677

And here is the latest diagram (based on a 12V 4-cylinder diesel) that I've modified to what I believe best represents the "as built status" of our glow/start systems. As you can see, it includes the internal wiring of components so you can actually "read" what happens:

View attachment 286678

I can easily "read" how my glow/start system works from this diagram and there are no contradictions (that I'm aware of) between what I read here and how my truck behaves in reality! Now this is something I've found I can't say for any FSM diagram that I've yet come across. (But I won't take offence at anyone's efforts to support an alternative wiring diagram, to suggest changes to mine, or even to trash mine completely.)
View attachment 286677View attachment 286678
What gauge and Length Battery cables are required on my 1981 12 volt BJ42
 
Hi llewdis,

thanks for the snippets from that manual. I am currently trying to figure out how to correct/repair my glow system since the previous owners seem to have made a mess of it. I will probably go with a Wilson switch and remove the old glow relay stuff which looks to be mostly missing anyway. Where did you get that B engine manual? It looks nice.

Thanks.
 
I bought it through Toyota Australia. Want cheap, but it is spec for what I have. I think I have a total of four books from them on the vehicle. I will pull them out and take pictures of the covers if you want.
 
I bought it through Toyota Australia. Want cheap, but it is spec for what I have. I think I have a total of four books from them on the vehicle. I will pull them out and take pictures of the covers if you want.
Yes please, if there is a number for them maybe I can order from Toyota here. I already managed to order quite a few bits from my local dealer. I have a 24v 1978 BJ40 with a 3B engine and maybe wiring from a BJ42, but I am still not sure. Often I look the wiring colours up and they fit the 80s BJ better than the 1978 ones.

Thanks.
 
Looking at them I’m not sure they are any different than the books from NA market. There aren’t any manual numbers that I can see.
I will try and find the other two manuals and get pictures of those as well.

image.jpg


image.jpg
 
Looking at them I’m not sure they are any different than the books from NA market. There aren’t any manual numbers that I can see.
I will try and find the other two manuals and get pictures of those as well.

View attachment 2640396

View attachment 2640397
Thanks very much llewdis, I will ask at my local dealer they might be able to investigate and see if its possible to get these.
 
Looks good. The only downside of only using the key switch for glow control is that you can't manually do an afterglow to keep the plugs heated after starting the engine. In my opinion, the afterglow feature is the primary benefit of a Wilson switch setup. I live in a cold climate.
 
Looks good. The only downside of only using the key switch for glow control is that you can't manually do an afterglow to keep the plugs heated after starting the engine. In my opinion, the afterglow feature is the primary benefit of a Wilson switch setup. I live in a cold climate.
Yeah that is true, I also live in a cold climate, we can get it quite cold here in the Czech Republic. I will have to see how it goes, unfortunately I finished it in the spring so its not a good time for testing it. I have to wait for the winter again and then if it doesn't work out I can switch to the momentary way of doing it. Thanks for your feedback.
 

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