It would be more along the lines of our 40 cage, but with different bends in the B hoop. The C hoop is bent more along the look of a OEM 40 cage but follows the lines of the roof instead.
internal (rear) roll cage
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It would be more along the lines of our 40 cage, but with different bends in the B hoop. The C hoop is bent more along the look of a OEM 40 cage but follows the lines of the roof instead.
Tank,
That was nw-sickboy.
Sumo,
My specific concern with the s bend that if not at the proper thickness and not properly mandrel bent than in a high speed roll the a pillar will collapse and then move inwards into the legs of the driver and impeding the means of egress in an exit.
Chris,
I think your cage will fill the purpose of wheeling protection quite well and if you were to do the exact same roll again your head would have a lot more room in the cabin this time.
My concern is only for occupants in a highway speed roll. I like the cage idea, I just want to see a better aproach to the dash that what I have seen. Hell I might be smoking crack here but perhaps Chris's design win 2" dom tubing properly bent would hold up in a wreck like what Dan Kliers experianced, the other issue would be an impact like what Scott m had. I would be hard pressed to think any type of s bend around the dash that wouldn't fail in this scenario.
Dave
That was nw-sickboy.
Sumo,
My specific concern with the s bend that if not at the proper thickness and not properly mandrel bent than in a high speed roll the a pillar will collapse and then move inwards into the legs of the driver and impeding the means of egress in an exit.
Chris,
I think your cage will fill the purpose of wheeling protection quite well and if you were to do the exact same roll again your head would have a lot more room in the cabin this time.
My concern is only for occupants in a highway speed roll. I like the cage idea, I just want to see a better aproach to the dash that what I have seen. Hell I might be smoking crack here but perhaps Chris's design win 2" dom tubing properly bent would hold up in a wreck like what Dan Kliers experianced, the other issue would be an impact like what Scott m had. I would be hard pressed to think any type of s bend around the dash that wouldn't fail in this scenario.
Dave
I can't help thinking that the best way would be exo on the front. Down the A pillars and then entering the fender, across the top of the wind shield, along the sides then entering the roof at the B pillars down the inside and through the floor to grab the frame. And then boxing it together around the sun roof.
Grench
SILVER Star
You mean like I described here...
https://forum.ih8mud.com/showpost.php?p=1542433&postcount=17
The difference is that my idea was to run it all the way back to the C pillar outside. The big question I have is if the span from the A pillar to the C pillar is too long, or if it would simply require real beefy bars.
I think it can be done this way without adding any significant height to the truck. Negotiating the transfer from exoskeleton to an interior bar might be a bit of a trick.
At this point I don't see a need to go further than the B pillar. Look at all the roll overs and you'll see that the A pillar is the one that really needs the help.
My buddy is a Rover fan and I've seen defender 110s up close. Those trucks have a aluminum body so a cage is a must. I still doubt I'd do anything with mine but if I were I'd look at what I proposed instead of an internal cage.
My buddy is a Rover fan and I've seen defender 110s up close. Those trucks have a aluminum body so a cage is a must. I still doubt I'd do anything with mine but if I were I'd look at what I proposed instead of an internal cage.
Again, the logic doesn't make much sense to me. If the A pillar collapses, I suspect the S bend would fair much better than none at all. Looking at the actual pics of the cage, I share the concern regarding a non mandrel bent cage. Also looking at the pics of the cage, a piece of flat steel to the bottom of the A pillar would make me have a lot less concern. It also appears to have the basics to a good cage otherwise, so if the A pillar isn't ideal, it certainly appears safer in a roll than what's delivered from the factory.
A fully functional internal cage doesn't have to 'cost' space. It just needs to be done by a guy that understands street use cages. We have a SCCA certified cage builder here in Chicago that also does street cages that allow full functioning interiors. He removes glass and headliners.
Before I'd consider an exo cage, I'd go after a really good B and C pillar design double hoop. There is a lot of room to do that without infringing on the passenger compartment. A pillar reinforcement doesn't have to be 'caged' necessarily to be safer. Look at convertibles, they just use thicker steel there.
ST
