Internal Balancing Beads

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yotahed

yotahed

Diesel Head
10 Year 15 Year
Joined
Dec 16, 2010
Threads
52
Messages
906
Location
Kelowna, B.C.
I know there are a few threads on this already. not sure how current they are though..
I had problem with my tires shimmying at aroun 80kmh and above, and slowing to a stop the steering wheel would rock back and forth quite a bit. i was going to rebalance anyway (50-70$) so i decided to give the contovertial beads a try.(35$ shipped). I run Dick Cepek fc-2 33x12.5r15. not a huge tire, but enough that the canadian tire guys had issues(probably my first mistake those guys are retarded).
The beads are the teflon coated SS type and i put 8oz. in each tire. just pop the bead with a jack-all and pour em in. Air up and done.
Took it for a spin and noticed right away the shimmy at 80 was gone as was the shimmy coming to a stop. still a very slight vibe at 85, but i think thats my pinion angle in the rear....
Impressed.
I tried screwing up the balance by hitting bumps and cornering hard at speed.... No difference.
These are available off ebay for around 20 bucks for 16oz. I bought 2 bags for 29+ shipping.
Will see as the kms pile up how they perform.
Ciao
 
Still getting a slight/noticable vibe at 80 gonna take 2 oz. out. i was looking at the tire chart and it calls for 6 oz. for my size tire...

Not givin up just yet. Lol
Maybe later in the week
 
inkpot said:
Some folks have good luck with them, but I have heard some horror stories about what happens when you take them into a tire store to get a flat repaired. John
Click to expand...

Im not following you here, what goes wrong during the flat repair?
 
Just read that thread. guess ill be adding a bit more. probably throw 3 or 4 more oz. in see what happens. i guess more is better than not enough. with that said, the balance is about the same now as with wheel weights from before. so cant be too far off.
The beads wont fly out everywhere when they bust a bead. as long as they know theyre in there theyll know to do one side and extract them first.
Personally if this works, the tire shops will be boycotted for everything but mounting. thievin b@sterds. Lol. 110$ for a crappy balance or 30-40$for the life of the tires...hmmmmmmm
 
Added 4 oz. to each tire. Much smoother than before. Ended up using copper over steel BB s to add the weight.
I think ill replace the whole lot with either the steel or airsoft heavy ammo. Seems the larger media, being more uniform, moves around a lot easier.
Might as well experiment with this. Only took about 45 mins to do all 4 so what the heck.
 
Ive been doing a bit of reading on balancing and tires and wheels in general. does everyone use just the regular acorn lug nuts to fasten their alloy wheels? anyone using the acorn with a shank type nuts?
Reason i ask is because everytime i re+re my wheels and tourqe them with wrench, it doesnt take 200km to require re tourqe. i drove from salmon arm to kamloops after reinstalling my wheels and had bad shake at 80 the whole way after tourqing the wheels the night before to 100ft lbs. retourqued in kamloops and shake went away. also almost all the nuts were down to 75-80 ft lbs.... Im thinkin maybe the lugs or wheel lug taper is wearing out?
 
Factory alloy rims are designed to use one style OR the other. They are not interchangeable. The torque requirement is different, also. You need to find out which one is correct for your wheel.
 
Alloys are still fastened using one type or the other. My old rodeo trayback had alloys that needed the shank type. They're not usually used anymore, new rims nearly always use the taper centered type.
Alloys will usually squash a little bit around the taper, so still a good idea to re-torque them
 
Yea im talking about a combination tapered cone with a shank that slides in between the wheel and the and lug, auto-centering the wheel without touquing the nuts at all. the shank isnt very long less than a half inch. would make for more threads captured as well. i believe my new pro comp 7069 wheels require this type.
 
Like these. 12x1.5 20mm shank makes any conical style lug &wheel combo truly lug centric. the inside bore of the lug hole would presummably have to very close to outside shank diamter and shank depth the same - 2 or 3 mm so.
crr-27802-4.webp
gor-21133et_w.webp
 
Hmm haven't seen them before. I'd still recheck them after a while. They look like theyd be used if the rims are a lot thicker than normal. Do they not need to be tightened as much as normal?
 
Well tourqing the wheels would be the same , 1-200kms and retourque. but when munting, the wheels would auto center on the lugs, negating the question if its centered or not. aftermarket rims arent hub centric, and the lug holes are large enough that they still require two opposing nuts to be snugged to get it close. i might try these. again more threads are captured as well making the whole assembly stronger.
 
rwd_117.webp


These you wer tryin to post a pic of them?
You cant get these wheels anymore. discontinued. I got a set of pro comp 15x10s on the way so these are goin up for sale as soon as they arrive. I wanted a set of five wheels. i like these, just cant find a 5th anywhere. the procomps are nice too



PXA7069.webp
rwd_117.webp
PXA7069.webp
 
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