tholyoak,
I hunted around for threads involving starter repair a few months ago. Each was different because each covered a different type of vehicle-4runner, 1988 truck, 2004, etc. I did not find one specifically for my 1998 V6, but I did have enough info to guide me through.
Couple of caveats-
Do not start until you have the complete kit in your hot little hands. Don't settle for just a couple of solenoid contacts like I did. You should replace the contacts AND the plunger while you're at it.
When you remove the plunger and spring, watch out for the small ball that's still inside the housing. It can fall out if you're not looking and roll out of site. You'll never know the difference until everything is back together and you turn the key!
When you reinstall the motor, be extra careful with the two little plugs that go into the main starter housing. These are not plugs, they are little dust filters in rubber plug-like housings (about 1/4 inch in diameter and 1/2-3/4 inch long. The plug into the housing quite easily and by the way they come out quite easily as well, especially when you are trying to oink the starter back into position.
If one of the little filter plugs comes out, STOP. Do not proceed until you get it back in. Without that plug, who knows how much road water, stream water, and hose water will find its way into the starter housing and muck everything up, not to mention the dust (if you drive dirt roads).
To help align the starter during reinstallation, I see a drift pin (an old pushrod, actually - showing my age here). Shove the pin through the top mounting hole from the back and let it stick out a few inches towards the front of the vehicle. Work the upper starter mounting hole onto the pin and then as close to the engine housing as you can. The drift pin will hold it in place if your wrist gets tired. Then take your mounting bolt and from the front of the vehicle, carefully push the drift pin back with the bolt while stabilizing the starter with your free hand. That will help you get the bolt started.
The hard part about aligning the starter is getting the starter gear to mesh with the flywheel gear. At least it was for me.
Snug up the upper bolt, then install the lower one. If you have (and use where necessary) two 10-inch ratchet extensions you will experience much joy when installing the lower starter bolt.
Oh BTW, when I removed the starter through the wheel well, IIRC I guided it straight out from the bell housing, then angled it up and around so the little gear was oriented some somewhat up and towards me. I lifted it up and then had to point the little gear straight up. That and a few FMA's and a couple GDI's later it came right out. Going in was another story but it IS possible ; )
Finally, when you remove the old contacts be damn sure you note the order in which the insulators came off. Mine had thin paper insulators. If your's has them, don't tear them or you'll be singing the blues. If you are not sure that you reinstalled the insulators the right way, use an ohmmeter to make sure there is no short circuit between each copper contact and the solenoid housing.
Good luck! Actually I shouldn't be saying that - luck doesn't work, and a little patience goes a long ways.
