can an interior wall be framed with the 2x4s on their side instead of like normal? i need the extra space but am concerned about structural strength, especially since there will be 3 doors in this wall which will span about 15' in length
Interior wall framing
- Thread starter jjbodean1970
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You'll have to build your own door frames, as pre-hung doors are sized for normal walls. I think it would end up pretty flimsy.
Is 2" really that critical?
Is 2" really that critical?
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- #3
to my wife it seems to be. its gonna end up mostly being closet space and right now it will be 21.5" deep, she wants it to be as close to 24" as possible.
the flimsy part is my main concern. not too worried about having to modify the door casings, the doors arent prehung, but custom. i would need to trim the inside casing where the stops are but the outside trim would be fine.
9' of doors in a 15'x 2" wall = 
I would use metal studs at a minimum
I would use metal studs at a minimum
Compromise and use 2x3 instead of 2x4. That probably wouldn't be to bad for a closet wall. I really wouldn't wan't to go with a 2" wall
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- #6
9' of doors in a 15'x 2" wall =
I would use metal studs at a minimum
the 3 doors are 24" wide each. i am thinking maybe using 2x3s and move the wall 1" into the existing door casing which i will need to trim back slightly, but will be hidden behind the door when it opens.
2" is no problem if you build the closets like a built in piece of furniture...
a pic from a quick search.. just make it deeper
a pic from a quick search.. just make it deeper
Why not mirrored or louvered bypass doors if it for a closet. A lot better access and I dont need to tell you about mirrors in the bedroom.
I would give metal studs a strong consideration over wood in this application. But they did built 2" wood walls in trailer for years
You could use 1 5/8 steel studs and use 1/4 ply on both sides with 1/4" GWB over that, or use 1/2 MWO on one sode and 1/2 GWB on the other. Be sure to anchor the top and bottom plates very well.
Thicker GWB would add to the strength of the wall as well. Using wood 2x2 studs would be asking for a very warped wall. Like beafort said, build it like furniture usung 3/4" ply 12"oc as studs.
I agree with your wife about the extra 2 1/2 inches. It will make the hangers hang better when they have stuff on them.
Thicker GWB would add to the strength of the wall as well. Using wood 2x2 studs would be asking for a very warped wall. Like beafort said, build it like furniture usung 3/4" ply 12"oc as studs.
I agree with your wife about the extra 2 1/2 inches. It will make the hangers hang better when they have stuff on them.
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- #10
i think i'm gonna do 2x3 on 12" centers and blocking 1/2 way up each wall. the closet wall is gonna be tied into the wall on the other side (back of the closet) 7.5' up where i will put in the dropped ceiling (concealing a/c return duct) which will give me extra rigidity. with the extra bracing described i think i should be ok. at the end of the closet i am gonna transition back to 2x4s for the 3rd door opening which leads to the bathroom.
would consider metal studs but have less experience with them (read: none) than i do wood stick framing.
would consider metal studs but have less experience with them (read: none) than i do wood stick framing.
agomez
Frijoles
regular 2x4 framing at door jambs then turn your 2x's sideways in between the doors it will work...sounds like you have bought the doors already you could have went with some sliders or bi-folds these would not have required the full depth of a 2x at the jambs for trim out ....you can use plywood on the interior to help with structural stability instead of sheet rock.
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- #12
could not find anyone with 2x3s in 10' length so i just cut back the existing door casing an extra inch and used the 2x4s, its gonna turn out fine and the wife is happy, so i am happy