Intentional Weak Points when Towing (1 Viewer)

[Minjin]

I'm outfitting my truck with some towing gear and like any good spec junkie, I find myself looking around for the best rated stuff. I figure that towing is one place you definitely don't want to cheap out on and I don't want to have an equipment failure. For instance, I see that you can get welded ball mounts with a ball for twenty bucks that are slightly below the tow rating of my truck (6500 pounds). Or I can get a forged ball mount with a large shank ball for maybe twenty bucks more that greatly exceeds my tow rating.

Example:

http://www.amazon.com/Reese-Towpowe...=1417457661&sr=1-1&keywords=reese+starter+kit

vs

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000KKJRS6...TF8&colid=34CLIJNY2SD50&coliid=I3F9BNZ39OX1AB
and
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0009TCRB2...UTF8&colid=34CLIJNY2SD50&coliid=I963EGZIWC2SO

That got me thinking. Where do I want the weak point to be? Any time you design a system, you don't just go for the strongest thing possible in every place. You want to have a fuse such that if it is damaged, it isn't extremely difficult or expensive to fix. That line of thinking lends me to believe that I would rather replace a 20 dollar hitch ball because it got overstressed than a 200 dollar tow hitch or risk frame damage.

Is that something you guys consider when choosing towing equipment? Or do you go for the best? Or do you just go for something that meets the towing application and call it done?

 

[cruiserpilot]

What are you towing? Single axle or tandem? Forged receiver is nice and heavy, overkill for almost all of 'light truck' towing. The amount you tow will be dictated by your vehicle tow capacity, and / or trailer towing capacity.

I drive a 60 wagon, has about 3500 lb towing capacity. So I have a single axle utility trailer, 6 lug axle ( giving 3500 lb max load capacity ),
and a standard receiver insert with a 2" ball ( max towing rating for 2" ball is 3500 lbs. ) I don't have brakes on my trailer, but here in BC, I can't tow a heavier rated trailer ( exceeding 3500 lbs ) without having brakes on my trailer. My receiver insert has a large shaft and the 2" ball I use is a large shaft ball. There is a difference in the balls when you look at them in store, shiny chrome is not what to look for. I also prefer a forged shaft from the ball. I don't feel comfortable with the tow balls that have a bolt that threads in to the bottom of the ball. I would put this at personal preference.

So you have to look at what you are going to do, and buy appropriately spec'd components. For gods sake - Get high quality safety chains, and make sure you attach them properly and securely. I have had 2 instances of failure at speed, and those chains have been all that saved me from
a really bad day.

Check with your local insurance people to see regulations for what you are doing as well. Make sure you have the facts for your state, province or wherever you are from.

Hope this helps

 

[ntsqd]

I don't want a "fuse" in any towing situation. There is no safe failure.

 

[rubicondon53]

I drag a very light off road excursion trailer.. Laden with 2 jerry cans, 25 gallons of water, fully stocked Yeti cooler, and all the other gear, it comes in at right around 1,000 lbs.. My trailer also has a higher ground clearance than my rig, and has followed us everywhere, including the occasional hard core trails... Underneath is a 3500 lb axle, and the leaf spring attaching points have been boxed out and beefed up... I don't and never have trusted any kind of ball hitch. If your trailer goes over, something, no matter how beefy, is gonna give, rip, or tear apart. I use a standard 15 ton pintle hook. The trailer has a 15 ton rotating lunette ring.. That set up will never break.. If a big word, if, the trailer should ever go over on its side, no worries, unhook, get it upright, re-hook, check and re secure our gear, and be on our way... A ball hitch would never survive that worst case scenario... Just my two cents....