Insurance rates on a '96 80

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Joined
Oct 26, 2004
Threads
24
Messages
139
Location
Michigan
I have a '91 80 and a '96 80. The insurance on the '96 is more than double the '91????? My mother is my insurance agent so you'd think I'm not getting screwed (keep your comments to yourselves please... haha). I have a clean record and no accidents and am still paying $950 every 6 months! This seems crazy. This might not be the place (80 Series Tech) to ask, but since most of you have 80's, any ideas what to do?
Thanks,
Mark
 
how old are you? also depends on credit score and where you live.

I pay $800(just droped) a year for my 100 series, 1 mill libility, comp and collision. but I have 9 cars, a boat and a house all with the same carrier, also I am 39 years old, but total for all my crap is about 5K a year.....sounds high but thats alot of crap insured :D

If I recall my rates were pretty bad till I hit 30 years old

libility is under $286 a year for anything, comp runs $100, then collision is dependent on the replacement cost of the rig.

might be time to shop your moms rates :D
 
State farm is going to have a rate increase for SUV's too! Because we "cause alot of damage to other cars"

I wish Darwinism was real, that way, this world would be a much quieter, cheaper, better place to live.

I will say that SUV's expecally the big one's get their butt kicked on insurance which really sucks.
 
I paid $1700 this year, full coverage $1K deductable. I am 28 with a lot of speding tickets, I am about out of points on my liscence :doh:, I do have a good credit score though. how does that play into itt? :confused:
 
I'm 38 and live in a sleepy town in West Michigan. If I put my two policies (91 vs. 96) side by side, they pretty much match up until you get to collision and glass. I just can't figure out why one is $450 and the other is $900??? Same body panels, same glass.......I have shopped around, MEEMIC, which usually gives great rates to teachers, is higher than what my mother sells me. I have 5 cars, 2 boats, and a house all insured with the same company and I still feel like I'm getting screwed. I looks like the rest of you are paying high premiums too, so at least I'm not alone.
I was just curious.....thought maybe there was a mistake with my insurance company. I'm afraid to investigate too much for fear that they will say, "Hmmm, you've been paying to little on your '91....time to jack up your rates."
 
Actual Cash Value

The '96 is going to cost WAY more to insure even if it uses the same parts.

In an accident, the MOST you could POSSIBLY get from property-damage insurance is the "Actual Cash Value" of the truck.

If the estimated damage to your truck is a certain amount (usually half) of the Actual Cash Value, then the insurance co will total your truck and pay you the Actual Cash Value.

The key here is that the newer truck has a much higher Cash Value than the old one....thus more risk to the insurance co.

Around here, the book value of a '96 LC is around double that of a similar '91.

You may want to look at the numbers, and your driving record; comprehensive insurance on a 14-year-old truck might not be worth it.

-G
 
My 96 is higher than my 2000 by a lot! I'm 45 with clean record, been with the same company for 10 years and no claims. I asked them why the 96 was so high and there was no good answer, checked with other companies and it was the same.
 
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I am 28 with a good driving record, and I pay $500 every 6 months on my '97 LX for full-coverage, $500 deductible, uninsured motorist coverage, etc. with Mercury Insurance here in SoCal. I was paying $1100 every 6 months for the same coverage with Progressive. No affiliation, just a very satisfied customer!
 
Oddly my old 92 fj80 was about $800 a year when I had full coverage on it(untill this last year) just a bit less them my 2000.........I don't know why?

Insurace uses your credit rating. They seem to think that someone with high ballances on credit cards is a higher risk. They also look at your beacon(sp) score. Now I would have sworn a year or so ago this was no longer legal........but around here the carriers are still doing it.

and Mark.........to me it sounds like your getting bent over for some reason, your paying more then 2x's what I pay and my 2000 is newer. check out Unigard, thats who has all my stuff insured, well besides my 45LV which i have with Hagerty for $240 a year with a 25K replacement value(apraisal)

Greg, that is NOT true at all(or not in my experence). we had our 88 fj62 totaled a year and a half ago, at that time it had 340,000 miles on it, we got $9400 from Amica, they did not go by ACV or book value, they go by what is on the market locally for sale. Heck I was hoping we would get 5K.......when they offered $9400.......we said SURE.......OK :) I spent $500 of that and bought the 62 back from them ;) and to think we only paid $2200 for it a year before ;)
 
Yes, ACV != (is not equal to) book value. It's almost always higher...the blue book is set up as a tool for dealers. Then again, for your dime-a-dozen Taurus, it's about the same.

ACV IS based on the local market, and is usually higher for rare or in-demand vehicles.

When my '84 4Runner was totalled in '94, I got a settlement of nearly $6k. "Book" was around $4k, I had upgraded tires, stereo, bumpers....I think that was from Amica, also. I've been very impressed in my dealings with them....

G

Quoted from AAA.com:
:Auto Insurance FAQ
:How is the "actual cash value" determined?
:Your vehicle's value is determined by comparing your vehicle's condition to similar vehicles. This :may include input from local auto dealers, private parties or recent sales. Condition, equipment and :mileage differences are also taken into consideration.
:
:In addition, we may use a computerized evaluation process to assist us in determining the value of :your vehicle.
 
got it, been a whille sense I sold cars..........forgot what ACV ment ;)

luckly for us......all the other 62 for sale were 10k-ish......except the one we replaced the 88 with....its was 5k, mint one owner and happen to pull into the store with a For Sale sign in the window the day we heard the ole 62 was totaled :D

gregc said:
Yes, ACV != (is not equal to) book value. It's almost always higher...the blue book is set up as a tool for dealers. Then again, for your dime-a-dozen Taurus, it's about the same.

ACV IS based on the local market, and is usually higher for rare or in-demand vehicles.

When my '84 4Runner was totalled in '94, I got a settlement of nearly $6k. "Book" was around $4k, I had upgraded tires, stereo, bumpers....I think that was from Amica, also. I've been very impressed in my dealings with them....

G

Quoted from AAA.com:
:Auto Insurance FAQ
:How is the "actual cash value" determined?
:Your vehicle's value is determined by comparing your vehicle's condition to similar vehicles. This :may include input from local auto dealers, private parties or recent sales. Condition, equipment and :mileage differences are also taken into consideration.
:
:In addition, we may use a computerized evaluation process to assist us in determining the value of :your vehicle.
 
dude, my bro has a 1998 lincolin navigator, and i ahve the 1996 80, and i guess the toyota's hold resale like a bitch. my bros navigator had only 50,000 mi when he bought it, and my LC had almost 100,000. i paid about 3 or 4 thousand more for mine than my bro did for his lincolin........(he wouldnt tell me the exact amount.) insurance and liscense plates for the LC are more than what he pays too. we ahve the same of everything. (insurance..sec of state etc)
 
Progressive

Try Progressive. I have all kinds of discounts I can use at other companies, but Progressive beats them all hands down.

Steve H
 
SteveLCetc said:
Try Progressive. I have all kinds of discounts I can use at other companies, but Progressive beats them all hands down.

Steve H


Progressive is the ticket.....I shopped them all hard before I bought and they were almost 1/2 the price of others. I was told by my agent the LC has a high risk number assigned too it (27?). They use these things to decide the risk factor.
RPL cost
Parts cost
Theft frequency
Miles driven to accident #'s
ECT

I was told that Progressive did not DING the LC as hard as other companies?

I pay $898 per year for my 94LC and a 95 T100 full coverage.
 
Progressive

Yep - I forgot to mention this is not a recommendation for Progressive on all cars, it's that they consider LC's differently.
 
State Farm, full coverage, $500 deduct, $436 every six months, 35 years old.
 
$1700 a year for full coverage, $500 deduct, 2 drivers(my wife and I) for my cruiser and her 2005 Saturn Ion. I've got that thru USAA. It's a company for military and former miltary and/or children of miitary. I'm 34 and my wife is 36, no tickets. I might get it cheaper elsewhere but this company has always treated us very well when we needed them. :)
 
Location, location, location :D

It has quite a bit to do with rates as well.

I have my insurance through AAA -- don't quite recall the exact amount though (I'll edit when/if I look it up). One thing I do recall AAA doing is that they have the 80 listed in their system as a station wagon -- and their rates apply accordingly.
 
On a 92' I got quotes on, Geico was the cheapest, followed closely by Progressive. Farmers, Met Life, Allstate, State Farm, Liberty Mutual, Ohio Mutual (my mom's carrier), AAA, Mercury, 21st Century... were all higher; in fact they were not even close.

This was for a 23 year old, perfect driving record, good credit (not perfect, but respectible), no claims ever.

USAA can be reasonable if you are eligible for it, but not always.

LANDPIMP:

Is the Million on BI per person, per occurence, or on PD?

Just Curious :) :beer:
 

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