Immobilizer / Security Issue (1 Viewer)

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skymast

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Jul 15, 2020
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Location
Nashville, TN
My '11 LX570 has immobilized itself twice now in the last 6 monthes. In case this hasn't happened to you, the immobilizer prevents you from starting the car by limiting the voltage going to the fuel pump. There are probably a few other things as well.

The first time, I 'think' it was related to water from the sunroof drain getting into the connections on the passenger-side kick panel. 3 weeks and $900 later it was fixed.

Same scenario this time, except there was no water in the vehicle. I went through the multiple online / forum recommendations but nothing worked. Left it alone for about a week, got in the car, put the key fob in front of the start button for a few seconds, and it started right up.

Now, when I get in the car, the immobilizer light (a red light with a key in the middle of it) flashes red until the car is started. It may or may not have done that before, but I didn't notice it.

I have been lucky that this happened in my driveway both times. Any thoughts on how to prevent this from happening again? At this point, I would like to remove the immobilizer if that is possible.

Thanks!
 
This happens to me when my key battery fob is dead. Once I replace the battery, it works just fine.
I am with you on that, but I replaced the battery both times when it happened, and it didn't solve the problem. In my case, something else seems to be wrong since the red light is still showing when I get in/out of the car. As mentioned, the light is not on after I start the car or when the car is locked. Thanks.
 
Given the history and symptoms, I wonder if you are still dealing with corrosion in electrical connectors. Even if dry now, corrosion can get worse over time once it’s started. I’d recheck the connectors in the PS door sill and kick panel and use some dielectric grease when re-connecting them.
 
Given the history and symptoms, I wonder if you are still dealing with corrosion in electrical connectors. Even if dry now, corrosion can get worse over time once it’s started. I’d recheck the connectors in the PS door sill and kick panel
Agreed.
 

Given the history and symptoms, I wonder if you are still dealing with corrosion in electrical connectors. Even if dry now, corrosion can get worse over time once it’s started. I’d recheck the connectors in the PS door sill and kick panel and use some dielectric grease when re-connecting them.
I agree. Apparently, that was part of the dealer's solution the first time. As I understand it, the immobilizer module is under the glove compartment. If I can remove it, it will be removed. Still trying to figure that out.
 
If you do figure that out, please don’t post it on here. Car thieves don’t need any help.
 

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