Immobilizer key steering column chip bypass...looking for main thread.

[Live to Ski]

Hi Gang,

I am suffering from search fatigue here

Looking for the main thread that addresses placing key chip in steering column such that a non-chipped key can be used to start rig.

I want to make sure I ask my technical question in the right place.

Thanks in advance

 

[labcab]

Not sure about the thread, but most folks are using zip ties to strap the transponder key to the ignition cylinder. Searching for "zip key ignition" turns up dozens of results.

 

[Live to Ski]

Hi Labcab and thanks.

I could have sworn there was one main thread that addresses the technique.

My technical questions is:
Do the chips themselves need power for the override?

Reason I ask is that my local hardware store can clone the master key (starts the rig, but no remote power lock activation etc). That key, even w/o remote power lock, has a small battery. I was told that the chip/battery will eventually die if tie-wrapped in the column. Also, does the chip in the master key need power for immobilizer override?

 

[LBridges]

I have two masters without remote (and one with). The two either do not have a battery, or no way to change it if it ever went out (key head is solid).

I assumed the immobilizer worked on a passive RFID scheme - hence why it had to be close.

 

[labcab]

I have two masters without remote (and one with). The two either do not have a battery, or no way to change it if it ever went out (key head is solid).

I assumed the immobilizer worked on a passive RFID scheme - hence why it had to be close.

That was always my understanding as well. I just tested my key that has the remote with the battery removed and it started fine.

Not sure why your hardware store key has a battery. Improved range? Test it with the battery removed.

 

[marshotel]

I agree, I think the original factory keys use a passive RFID scheme that does not require a battery.

However, the "cloned" keys produced by a locksmith or at the hardware store might use a different circuit that does require a battery.


I have had several 100-series keys cloned by my local locksmith, and have been very happy with them. They used an "ilco" brand cloning machine and blanks. It looks like those cloned keys did use batteries, but mine have worked fine so far (3+ years) without battery replacement.

ILCO Key Systems - FAQ's - Key Blanks

 

[Live to Ski]

Thanks guys.

I will have the hardware store remove battery and test. I did test the key by holding next to ignition and used a non powered key....started right up...so the proximity concept works. Now to remove the battery....

I'll report back in a few days with results

BTW: The new "battery" key is a ILCO EH3. Cost was $69 which I thought was fair considering the funky programming steps of manual programing (never done).

 

[rhysmoe]

Sorry to hijack my way in here but I have been trying for an hour to get my transponder zip tied to the correct place in the ignition area with no luck. If I hold the very end of it right to the front it works but no where else. If its touching the front it can't be hidden.

if anyone has a photo of where they placed it I would be super stoked!

 

[FranceJohnson]

This is very easy. Remove the key fob from the key housing. You need to remove the RFID, which is a small "rectangularish" black plastic part stuck inside the keyless remote assembly. Remove the rubber surround from the ignition tumbler. Now, I used some RTV and glued the RFID to the inside of the ring. Let dry and reinstall.

The reason I installed it to the ring is if you try to use another key later with another RFID the ignition will not work. I have a hidden valet key with a RFID, so I would just need to pull the rubber ring off to start the car. A bonus to this setup is you can use FJ Cruiser keyfobs (confirmed and in use). The FJ Cruiser RFIDs will not work with at least the older (pre-2002, no confirmation on later years), but the fob does. Once the RHID is removed, you are good to go. The FJ Cruiser Fobs were way way cheaper than the ones available for Land Cruisers and Lx470s.

 

[rhysmoe]

This is very easy. Remove the key fob from the key housing. You need to remove the RFID, which is a small "rectangularish" black plastic part stuck inside the keyless remote assembly. Remove the rubber surround from the ignition tumbler. Now, I used some RTV and glued the RFID to the inside of the ring. Let dry and reinstall.

The reason I installed it to the ring is if you try to use another key later with another RFID the ignition will not work. I have a hidden valet key with a RFID, so I would just need to pull the rubber ring off to start the car. A bonus to this setup is you can use FJ Cruiser keyfobs (confirmed and in use). The FJ Cruiser RFIDs will not work with at least the older (pre-2002, no confirmation on later years), but the fob does. Once the RHID is removed, you are good to go. The FJ Cruiser Fobs were way way cheaper than the ones available for Land Cruisers and Lx470s.

I love this forum you guys are great. Thanks for the advice. Makes me a little nervous because its my only master and this is an 03 LX so laser cut key blades and not easily programmable keys. I might get ballsy after a glass of bulleit tonight and give it a shot. Thanks again.

 

[FranceJohnson]

So a couple things to make clear, which will make you a little more comfortable. The earlier model LX470s have laser cut keys as well. I emailed a dealer, was able to prove I owned the Lexus and they sent me the "Key Cut Code" for my LX470. I then bought 2 Lexus (probably clones) key/shell from eBay seller BBBlocks for $50 shippped (precut to my vehicle). So if you need more keys, I would go that route. Now that is the key, and the shell.

The Fob is what is inside the shell, and is the electronic device that has the keyless entry assembly. Open the shell and remove this. Now you need to separate the the back from the assembly. So the fob is approximately 4 parts sandwiched together. The black front part with the buttons, a middle clear part with the board, the back black battery housings, and a battery cover. The RFID is between the back battery housing and the clear middle part.

I removed the battery and battery cover, might not be necessary, but less to deal with. Now very carefully separate the back black cover from the clear middle part. I used a tiny flat head screw driver and a thin knife blade to carefully pry them appart. They are glued together, so just slowly make your way around.

Once open, you will see the green circuit boat with a rectangular corner missing. In that corner is the RFID. It has a small amount of adhesive below it, but carefully pry it out. This is the part that gets adhered to the inside of the rubber ignition ring.

Reassemble in reverse order. And now your done.

This whole process should only take 15 mins. I did the whole thing before I typed this in about 5 just to make sure I was giving you the correct steps. I will upload some photos.

 

[outdoor7or24]

@FranceJohnson can you share a photo of your finished product (RTV and glue the RFID)?
Thanks!

This is very easy. Remove the key fob from the key housing. You need to remove the RFID, which is a small "rectangularish" black plastic part stuck inside the keyless remote assembly. Remove the rubber surround from the ignition tumbler. Now, I used some RTV and glued the RFID to the inside of the ring. Let dry and reinstall.

The reason I installed it to the ring is if you try to use another key later with another RFID the ignition will not work. I have a hidden valet key with a RFID, so I would just need to pull the rubber ring off to start the car. A bonus to this setup is you can use FJ Cruiser keyfobs (confirmed and in use). The FJ Cruiser RFIDs will not work with at least the older (pre-2002, no confirmation on later years), but the fob does. Once the RHID is removed, you are good to go. The FJ Cruiser Fobs were way way cheaper than the ones available for Land Cruisers and Lx470s.

 

[FranceJohnson]

I don't, but glueing inside the rubber ring around the tumber is pretty straight forward. A dab of RTV, place the RFID, let dry, replace the ring.

Ultimately I found this didn't work very well in the winter months. I had a few times when it was below freezing the truck did not want to start, and it turned out to be the immobilizer.

The RFIDs are dirt cheap, and they are very easy to program; so if you can use them in your setup in place of this bypass solution, I would suggest that. If not, this bypass worked great until it got cold, so just keep that in mind.