imlooking for a stock-mild built lx450 or 94-97 80 series.(FL)

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Inexpensive and easy to install. Works very well, especially with normal sized tires. On a daily driver you need to adjust your driving style a little so you don't chirp going around corners. The pins seem to be the weak link if they are going to fail. Not sure how they hold up on a heavy rig and a little abuse.
 
We (my dad, I was 5 or 6) did the 2.5 OME on my 62. It's not complicated, just unbolt, bolt. It's really nice on a car lift though, not in the driveway. ;)

I would do ARBs or elockers, I'd like the e-locker experience for when I install them in mine
 
Find a parted out truck, you should just buy the whole diff (actuator is super important), and you need the computer and wire harness and switch. Not a 1 banana job but you have plenty of experience surrounding you.
 
I have run front and rear Lockrites (same as Ausssie) since day1. I've found them to be durable and survive abuse over many years and never had breakage until the pins broke on the Rubicon. Great bang for the buck. I would only go front and rear Aussie again if I was strapped for cash.
BUT... If I had to do it over again I'd definitely get ARB's for the front and be inclined to put them in the back also.

A heavy foot and Aussie's are a bad combo. You can potentially break more drive train parts in the rocks running an Aussie, especially in the front.

A front ARB/back Aussie isn't a bad combo, but once you spent that much, what's an extra $500 to go ARB in the back.
 
ill start with a rear ARB and add the front later on if i need it. (seldom use my front locker on the fj40 when off roading) while I'm in the rear end anything else i should replace as prevention maintenance ?? also if I'm going to get a air compressor under the hood id like to get something i can fill the tires up with. the lil ARB one that comes with the kit is lacking. any suggestions ??
 
I started with an ARB in the front and put the lock rite in the back until I had the money to get the other locker. If you want you could do pinion bearings etc, but I would likely leave the pinion alone unless it leaks or has slop. The ARB probably comes with carrier bearings. Be sure to document the gear pattern very well so you can put it back. The only thing you should have to do is backlash and preload.
 
with a rear auto-locker (Aussie, lockright, spartan) you can feel it at full lock-turns. I'm not sure about whether that still happens with automatic.
 
You will feel the rear locker in the turns, it should rachet the outside tire around under very light throttle. Under heavier throttle the side plates lock up and it will scrub the tire/chirp/push the truck wide through turns. Once you get a feel for them they generally have minimal drama.
 
2.5in ome lift kit on the way. the powers that be say its a 1.5 hr bolt on mod, anyone can do it in their driveway... (2x that) so in about 3hrs i may be able put lift kit on my self. i may give it a go next week when it comes in.. now for tire size humm
 
315/75r16 is 35, I think you can run that on an 80 with 2.5

If you want 33's then go with 255/85r16 (tall/skinny)
 
Matt is correct.. Thats what I put on mine with OME heavy/heavy 2.5 inch. Carefull compressing those coils.

you can also run a 285/75/16 or a 305/75/16. Both are basically 33's
 
On a metric size scale the first number is width, the second is profile (ratio of height to width) and third is rim diameter. So a fat lo- profile tire would be a 285/30 16 where a 285/75 would be a lot taller or have aa actual sidewall.
 
This is 255/85r16 (around 33.3x10.1r16) on Deo's truck, I don't think his is lifted

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