I'm going to climb Mt. Shasta this year...

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2ndGenToyotaFan

2ndGenToyotaFan

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Anyone want to come? Anyone have any gear you might loan/sell cheap/give me? :D (Had to ask)

This is the first climb like this I've ever attempted, but I'm no hero, I'm going to wait till conditions are right and head up the Avalanche Gulch Route. (Don't let the name scare you, it's one of the easier ways...) I live less than an hour from the trail head, so I have the benefit of waiting for the right time.
 
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I will probably end up camping at Helen, but had thought about a one day shot. I've been training on the treadmill for a month and a half now (need to modify it so it'll go steeper than 10%).... I hope to be in great shape by the time I head out....

I'm curious Dan, how was the altitude effect on the one day trip? Did you go up slow to acclimate some on the way up?
 
I've climbed it twice. Both times we camped at Lake Helen and both times I felt altitude sickness at around 12k feet but still made it to the top. They rent whichever gear you might need at the shops below. I brought my snowboard the 2nd time up and boarded down. I'll tell you, it's a lot of work to haul a snowboard and two pairs of boots just for just 20 minutes of boarding!
 
Thanks for the insight Hoser! Only 20 minutes to board down it? :D That's kind of anticlimactic...

I'd like to buy some of the stuff that I know I'll use later.... I just got a decent deal on a soft shell jacket.... I'd also like to buy an Ice axe soon so I can go get used to using it. But will probably rent boots and crampons.
 
Haha, I don't remember how long it took to get down but the steepest section is from the peak down to Lake Helen. We went in like July/August so there wasn't a ton of snow below Lake Helen and it just wasn't steep enough to be boardable.

As for boots, I just used my old Vasque Alpine boots that have provisions for crampons and I just doubled up my socks. And then used gaitors over them.

My advice is to get really good wrap around sunglasses that cover as much as possible, mountaineering sunglasses would be optimal but not necessary. Don't forget to put sunblock around your nostrils as the sun will reflect off the snow and burn you in places you would not normally expect. Load your iPod with some great music because most of time going up, you'll be looking at the ground/mountain. It is a spectacular view from a top. Be sure to monitor the weather condition beforehand because there is a chance you won't make it to the top due to white out.
 
Ah ha! Hehe, I started thinking and it's about 7 miles from the summit to the trail head... 20 minutes... 3 minutes a mile.... you were haulin'!!! :D Thanks for the tips! I got the idiots guide to climbing Mt. Shasta, lots of good info in there.

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The Alpine boots worked fine as they have gore-tex too. Of course, the hard-shelled boots would be better as they have more insulation and are more waterproof but my boots are comfortable so I thought I'd use them.

As for going up Avalanche Gulch, I do not think of it to be difficult for a moderately active person. It's just a matter of time and going at a comfortable pace.
 
All this talk about how easy the avalanche gulch route is might deceive you a bit. It's pretty straight forward, but you need to have basic crampon and axe skills - and you need to be proficient at self arrest. Since this will be your first "mountaineering" experience, go to Helen Lake the first day and spend the afternoon there learning to self arrest quickly and efficiently from any position (ie - head first on your back).

All it takes is for a quick storm cell to form and cut visibility while a sudden gust blasts you at 60mph on Misery Hill and you'll be sliding down a wind-blown ice sheet before you know what hit.

Be sure to learn the rest step technique for ascending steep inclines - if done correctly you'll be able to go forever. Also, do not glissade with your crampons on.

If you don't already own it, you need to get the Mountaineering Bible - "Freedom of the Hills."

Last tip - Get a pee bottle. If it's storming out, the pee bottle will save you a trip out side of the tent (or even into the vestibule). I use a Nalgene with a yellow lid.

Good luck and enjoy - the view from the top is epic.
 
hoser said:
I've climbed it twice. Both times we camped at Lake Helen and both times I felt altitude sickness at around 12k feet but still made it to the top. They rent whichever gear you might need at the shops below. I brought my snowboard the 2nd time up and boarded down. I'll tell you, it's a lot of work to haul a snowboard and two pairs of boots just for just 20 minutes of boarding!
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I used my split board when I climbed one of the 14 ers here in Colorado. I didn't have to carry my board or boots. The best part is how quick and easy it is getting back down.
 
My only input is from a couple of searches I have been involved in on Shasta. Go with a partner and a plan. Do not split up. If one doesn't make it go back down together. Plastic boots are great for climbing but tough on some feet. Be ready for painful feet. Don't rope up, they are called click clacks when they are rescued.:doh: Don't glisade with crampons. Carry a two way radio and cell phone. Leave a note with the channel # you are using on your radio at your camp. It is alot faster to fly to the summit in a Blackhawk!:grinpimp:
 
Fly Rod, I really just want to get to the top... if you have the Blackhawk hook up I'll forget all the climbing nonsense and get back to eating Cheetos! :D Just let me know when we're going :cheers:

On the radio: Do I need some fancy radio, or will a 22 channel radio shack work? (Cause I already have that...) This one.

Yeah, ropes are great if the rope is hooked to the mountain....
 
2ndGenToyotaFan said:
Fly Rod, I really just want to get to the top... if you have the Blackhawk hook up I'll forget all the climbing nonsense and get back to eating Cheetos! :D Just let me know when we're going :cheers:

On the radio: Do I need some fancy radio, or will a 22 channel radio shack work? (Cause I already have that...) This one.

Yeah, ropes are great if the rope is hooked to the mountain....
Click to expand...

Any FRS with good batteries will work. Line of site is generally not an issue. Most important is someone not climbing with you knowing that you have it and the channel you will be on. A unit like a Garmin Rino would be ideal. But I wouldn't buy one just for this trip.

The Blackhawk hookup ended after that one crashed on Shasta. My wife banned me from flying on sar flights on Shasta.:ban:
 
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